This is a general how-to on replacing a stock drive shaft stuffing box with a PSS Packless Seal System on a 1997 Tige 2150 W/T. The only really important thing to know before ordering is the diameter of your drive shaft. In my case its 1 1/8 inches.
I ordered my kit from the folks at http://www.skidim.com. They were very helpful in helping me decide whether to go with the PSS or a standard system, and its not just a sales pitch. Essentially, if you plan to keep the boat and don't want to have to mess with the rope replacement, this is a good option. The cost for me was $199 + shipping (I needed to have it overnighted)
The is an official installation manual which can be downloaded from here as well as some decent installation videos here
If you still want to see how it was actually done, keep reading.
To get started:
1. Remove the engine cover (six screws at the back, three on each side).
2. Remove the floor panel which gives you access to the drive shaft area.
3. Disconnect the flange on the end of the shaft where it connects to the transmission. There should be four bolts.
4. Remove the nut on the inside of the flange which keeps the flange on the shaft. There might be a lock screw holding it in place.
5. Remove the flange at the end of the shaft. A nice trick is to get some longer bolts and re-attach the flange to the tranny placing a small socket inbetween. Tighten down the bolts, and with a light tap on the flange it should pop off.
6. Remove the old stuffing box. All you should have to do is to loosen the hose clamps and twist it off.
The old leaky stuffing box
Stuffing box removed
Cracked stuffing box
7. Get some (at least) 400 grit sandpaper, 600 is better. Gently sand the shaft to remove any sharp edges or minor imperfections, and clean it off to remove any dust.
Sanding the drive shaft
8. Carefully slide the baffle and carbon onto the shaft, and attach with hose clamps.
The new baffle and carbon in place
9. Get some water soluble soap (DO NOT USE AN OIL-BASED PRODUCT! - It will ruin the o-rings). I used some biodegradable shampoo I had in the boat. Cover the inside of the stanless ring with the soap, and carefully slide the stainless ring onto the shaft just to the point where its touching the carbon.
10. Replace the flange on the end of the shaft, making sure the key is lined up with the groove. Replace the nut on the end of the shaft and the lock screw if present. Take care to not damage the shaft when tightening the nut.
11. Reconnect the shaft flange to the tranny flange with the four bolts.
12. With a sharpie, or by some other means, mark the shaft where the stainless sits now (called the neutral position).
13. Based on the instruction booklet, compress the baffle the distance required by pushing the stainless towards the stern. (In my case it was 3/4")
14. Tighten down the lock screws (allen head) on the stainless. Then thread in the second set of allen head lock screws to lock the first ones into place.
Compressed with the stainless piece locked in place
15. With the provided "T" which comes in its own bag with a hose and clamps, tap into the port side water hose right before it connects to the port side exhaust riser. (The port side has more efficient water flow from what I'm told). Again, you can use some of the same soap to make this easier.
Tapping into the starboard side water supply
Close look at tapping into the water supply
16. Connect the supplied hose to the "T", making sure the hose clamps are tight.
17. Connect the other end of the hose to the plastic spigot which sticks out of the carbon on the drive shaft (which you just installed). You may need to cut the hose to length. An optional "L" might be nice, but not required. Tighten the hose clamp keeping in mind that the spigot is plastic.
Connecting the water line to the seal for cooling
18. Double check everything, re-install the engine cover and clean up. Enjoy your new drippless shaft seal
Here's what it looks like when we're all done.
I ordered my kit from the folks at http://www.skidim.com. They were very helpful in helping me decide whether to go with the PSS or a standard system, and its not just a sales pitch. Essentially, if you plan to keep the boat and don't want to have to mess with the rope replacement, this is a good option. The cost for me was $199 + shipping (I needed to have it overnighted)
The is an official installation manual which can be downloaded from here as well as some decent installation videos here
If you still want to see how it was actually done, keep reading.
To get started:
1. Remove the engine cover (six screws at the back, three on each side).
2. Remove the floor panel which gives you access to the drive shaft area.
3. Disconnect the flange on the end of the shaft where it connects to the transmission. There should be four bolts.
4. Remove the nut on the inside of the flange which keeps the flange on the shaft. There might be a lock screw holding it in place.
5. Remove the flange at the end of the shaft. A nice trick is to get some longer bolts and re-attach the flange to the tranny placing a small socket inbetween. Tighten down the bolts, and with a light tap on the flange it should pop off.
6. Remove the old stuffing box. All you should have to do is to loosen the hose clamps and twist it off.
The old leaky stuffing box
Stuffing box removed
Cracked stuffing box
7. Get some (at least) 400 grit sandpaper, 600 is better. Gently sand the shaft to remove any sharp edges or minor imperfections, and clean it off to remove any dust.
Sanding the drive shaft
8. Carefully slide the baffle and carbon onto the shaft, and attach with hose clamps.
The new baffle and carbon in place
9. Get some water soluble soap (DO NOT USE AN OIL-BASED PRODUCT! - It will ruin the o-rings). I used some biodegradable shampoo I had in the boat. Cover the inside of the stanless ring with the soap, and carefully slide the stainless ring onto the shaft just to the point where its touching the carbon.
10. Replace the flange on the end of the shaft, making sure the key is lined up with the groove. Replace the nut on the end of the shaft and the lock screw if present. Take care to not damage the shaft when tightening the nut.
11. Reconnect the shaft flange to the tranny flange with the four bolts.
12. With a sharpie, or by some other means, mark the shaft where the stainless sits now (called the neutral position).
13. Based on the instruction booklet, compress the baffle the distance required by pushing the stainless towards the stern. (In my case it was 3/4")
14. Tighten down the lock screws (allen head) on the stainless. Then thread in the second set of allen head lock screws to lock the first ones into place.
Compressed with the stainless piece locked in place
15. With the provided "T" which comes in its own bag with a hose and clamps, tap into the port side water hose right before it connects to the port side exhaust riser. (The port side has more efficient water flow from what I'm told). Again, you can use some of the same soap to make this easier.
Tapping into the starboard side water supply
Close look at tapping into the water supply
16. Connect the supplied hose to the "T", making sure the hose clamps are tight.
17. Connect the other end of the hose to the plastic spigot which sticks out of the carbon on the drive shaft (which you just installed). You may need to cut the hose to length. An optional "L" might be nice, but not required. Tighten the hose clamp keeping in mind that the spigot is plastic.
Connecting the water line to the seal for cooling
18. Double check everything, re-install the engine cover and clean up. Enjoy your new drippless shaft seal
Here's what it looks like when we're all done.
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