How to perform a "quick winterization" (Marine Power engine)

[chpthril]

In RED

Caution: If you have a intake strainer (like my boat does), the water might NOT drain back out of the thru-hull scoop. My intake strainer is mounted near the top of the engine compartment, making the v-drive a low point in the system. The trans cooler hosed removed will be as low or lower, so water left between the strainer and cooler will drain out when the cooler hose is removed.

When I removed my v-drive's plug, a WHOLE bunch of water came streaming out. I presume I was draining the drive along with both of its hoses; when I later disconnected the hose on the transmission cooler it was basically empty so I think its water flowed out the v-drive. (On the trailer, the v-drive is lower than the cooler.) If you had pulled the trans cooler hose first, and then the v-drive plugs, you would have gotten very little water out of the plugs. I came to the conclusion that it was not necessary to pull the floor for a basic water drain, after winterizing a number of Tiges. For those that ride year-round, pulling the floor would be a major PITA after each trip out. There is never anything wrong with one fallowing the manufacturers instructions.

The v-drive's drain plug is probably the easiest plug to access, remove, and reinstall. I wouldn't skip it. Just my $0.02.

[IDBoating]

The trans cooler hosed removed will be as low or lower, so water left between the strainer and cooler will drain out when the cooler hose is removed.

As long as you don't lose the syphon. Since the v-drive is the lowest point in that part of the system, the only way to KNOW it's empty is to remove the v-drive's plug.

If you had pulled the trans cooler hose first, and then the v-drive plugs, you would have gotten very little water out of the plugs. I came to the conclusion that it was not necessary to pull the floor for a basic water drain, after winterizing a number of Tiges.

Considering that the v-drive is the low point, I'm not sure you can rely on getting all of the water out by draining solely from a point ABOVE the low point.

For those that ride year-round, pulling the floor would be a major PITA after each trip out.

Totally agree, though if you ride year-around I'm not sure why you'd be emptying your cooling system after each trip out. If the answer is salt water, I would definitely want to be sure all of that had been drained!

BTW, it's not necessary to pull the floor on my boat to do this. The center portion of the rear seat, held in place by four screws and wingnuts, lifts right out to reveal the v-drive while leaving the floor in place:



Four wingnuts and it's out. No carpet strips (it remains attached to the seat section), no floor screws, nothing. The only thing covered by my floor is the fuel tank so there's really no reason to remove it:



An alternative to draining the v-drive would be to disconnect the cooler's hose and then dribble some antifreeze into whichever end is higher until it appears out the other end (cooler hose on non-strainer boats, or strainer hose if present). This could be done via the standard access panels and would insure a freezeproof solution was in the v-drive.

There is never anything wrong with one fallowing the manufacturers instructions.

Agreed - and those instructions say to remove the v-drive plug (2009 EX-343 Owner's Manual, page 60):

Remove all the drain plugs from the following
locations:
• Cylinder Block - one on each side (5.0/5.7L
engines, remove the knock sensor on the port
and starboard sides). When installing the
knock sensor, torque to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
• Exhaust Manifolds - remove hoses and/or
drain plugs, one on each side.
• CES 5.0/5.7L - remove drain plugs, one on
each side, exhaust corners.
• Transmission Cooler - one drain plug.
• (If Equipped) PCM V-Drive Transmission
- one drain plug.

YMMV....

[pzbilly]

Great very informative

[skindog44]

where do you locate the v-drive plug if its so easy to access? Thanks! This winterization tip sheet is very helpful!!

[IDBoating]

See that first picture above? That's the v-drive right in the center of the photo, with the big silver thing on its end. The drain plug is immediately below that. You remove and install it with a 1/2 inch ratchet handle (no socket required, it has a square recess).

I should qualify my earlier comment: When I said it was probably the easiest to access, I was thinking of after the seat support had been removed. To winterize my engine, I consider removing that seat support mandatory during winterization because it gives safe access to the oil filter (otherwise the risk of oil spillage goes way up). Once it's out, getting to the v-drive's drain plug is super easy.

Removing the seat support takes a bit longer than removing the engine access panels back in the storage compartments, but isn't bad.

Hope this helps!

[seaslush]

I have thewinterizer on my boat
no mess in the hull
fast and very easy
the only system I will use from now on...

[IDBoating]

I have thewinterizer on my boat
no mess in the hull
fast and very easy
the only system I will use from now on...

That handles the water. Now all you have left is:

* Winterize fuel system and engine
* Replace oil
* Replace oil filter
* Remove batteries
* Etc.

[chpthril]

That handles the water. Now all you have left is:

* Winterize fuel system and engine
* Replace oil
* Replace oil filter
* Remove batteries
* Etc.

Removing batteries is not always necessary. The main objective is to keep them charged so they don't freeze.

[seaslush]

When I read the forum on how some members are winterizing their engines, I just shake my head. Finding drain plugs - warming up the engine - removing the thermostat - mixing antifreeze, etc.. My 140 hp is done in 3 minutes. It takes longer to remove my batteries than to drain the engine. My buddy has twin V6 mercs and it take him less than 10 minutes to drain both engines.
So on the last trip of the year, I add fuel stab (2min), at the end of the run I change the oil and filter (5 min), pull the boat out and wash it off (10 min), drain the engine (3min), pull the battery (I am going to change the location of the battery next year)(5min), clean the inside of the boat (10min), check and grease the outdrive (4min), remove my electronics (3min) and cover (30min). Now I look forward to winterizing my boat because it is so easy to do.

[IDBoating]

Now I look forward to winterizing my boat because it is so easy to do.

Different engines and ease of access makes a big difference. My Mercury 240EFI is fast too:

* Totally self-draining, and I mean TOTALLY. Time to drain: Zero

* 2-stroke operation. Time to change oil and oil filter: Zero

* Change two fuel filters: Five minutes

* Remove battery: Two minutes

So yeah, some engines and boats are easier.

[seaslush]

the point I want to make is:
there is a system out there that will make the hardest and most important part of winterizing an inboard (the engine) fast and easy.

[IDBoating]

the point I want to make is:
there is a system out there that will make the hardest and most important part of winterizing an inboard (the engine) fast and easy.

The water cooling part of the engine, yes. I'm not sure I'd say that is the hardest part, though. And if you're not in a freezing climate it's not even the most important.

I'm sure it's a very nice product. But it's not anywhere close to being a complete solution for winterization.

[skyski_tige]

Winterizing -
1. remove passenger access cover
2. place heater in storage area and set to 32 degrees

Done...

[skyski_tige]

Different engines and ease of access makes a big difference. My Mercury 240EFI is fast too:

* Totally self-draining, and I mean TOTALLY. Time to drain: Zero

* 2-stroke operation. Time to change oil and oil filter: Zero

* Change two fuel filters: Five minutes

* Remove battery: Two minutes

So yeah, some engines and boats are easier.

You can remove your batteries in two minutes - WOW

[IDBoating]

Winterizing -
1. remove passenger access cover
2. place heater in storage area and set to 32 degrees

Done, if you aren't worried about changing lubricants and all the other normal maintenance steps as described in the manuals. The whole point of changing lubes at winterization is to prevent water, if any, from sitting in there all those months.

Take good care of your equipment, and it will take good care of you. The opposite is also true.