I took my 24v (2004) out for the second time this season and when i was turning all of the sudden the steering got really tight and i could not turn the wheel. It would turn then it felt like it hit a knot and i would have to push really hard on the wheel to pass that knot and get it to turn. It got progressively worse and i barely got it back to the dock. By time i was at the dock the steering was virtually impossible to turn and the boat would not steer anymore. I checked the rudder to make sure nothing was stuck but it looked perfect. Any ideas on what is wrong or what could be causing this??
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steering problem with 24v
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Odds are it's time for a steering cable like mentioned. I would disconnect the cable from the rudder first, and see how freely the rudder and cable move by themselves just to make sure. I think there is a grease fitting on the rudder, not a bad idea to hit it after you determine whats wrong.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by Costigan View PostSounds like the steering cable. I have never heard of it happening so suddenly though. Usually it gets stiffer over time. They run about $150 I think and are fairly easy to replace.Cursed by a fortune cookie: "Your principles mean more to you than any money or success."
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jeevs24V
Sounds just like what my 21 v did last just not as bad as yours. Quick check is unhook the steering cable from the rudder if it moves from right to left just fine then it is 100% the cable.
I replaced mine and there is a nice write up on the forum. It is a pain but it took right around 45 mins to take out and install. Biggest pain for me is I had to unscrew the gas tank so I could lift it up about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch so the steering cable would slide under easy.
Sam15 Escalade ESV-Black
08 RZ2-Blue
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Some additional help
From a post a few years back . . .
Howdy . . . having experienced this "fun" steering cable replacement on my 2001 21V, I've have a few tips that I would like to share . . . after you have disconnected the cable slide from the rudder (one bolt), tie a thin rope to the hole on the end of the cable long enough to go from the back all the way to the front of your boat . . . you'll nee a short cresent wrench (about 5" long -- I cut mine) to undo the large nut on the cable shaft . . . you'll just love ripping your knuckles on this procedure . . . you will also need to drain the gas tank and remove the attachments holding the tank . . . I found that I did not need to remove the vent pipe, it moved enought to allow the cable to pass under the tank, you will need to remove the filler hose . . . raise the tank an inch or two with a few boards and you can tie the front of the tank with a rope up to your tower to hold it up a few inches and move back toward the engine as far as you can . . . under the dash the small box around the cable needs to be removed (two screws), that will give you the ability to remove and also push the cable through the hole in the floor . . . disconnect the cable at the rack and pinion connection (four bolts). . . once this is done, you can pull the cable out from the dash side and the rope should follow . . . attach the rope to the new cable and reverse the process . . . here's a tip -- duck tape the slide to the large nut so when you pull the rope back through, the slide does not expand and it also keeps the junk out of threads . . . make sure when tightening the large nut that you DO NOT strip the treads . . . do it by hand then use the wrench and rip up your knuckles again . . . I am now storing my steering in the full-left position . . . this keeps the slide all the way in protecting it from the elements . . . good luck . . . Steve
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Good recommendation on the "full-left" position. While the fitting is stainless, stainless will rust if submerged for any long period of time. The only thing I'd add to that is to make sure you drain the bilge completely when storing. It's important to remember that you have a Convex V hull (which is more pronounced the newer the boat) and that means the lowest point won't be the drain plug in the back.
On my boat, I have another plug that's accessible from the inside of the boat right in front of the V-Drive housing. I have to remove the middle seat section covering the V-Drive to get to it, but if you're putting the boat on a lift regularly, I'd make sure you have some wing nuts on the seat back and then drain this whenever possible.Cursed by a fortune cookie: "Your principles mean more to you than any money or success."
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Originally posted by samw View PostYou pay me $ 250 and I will do them all day long. It really is not that bad.Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?
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Hey Jeeves, I had to replace the steering cable on my '05 24V last year. The story sounds pretty much the same, but mine got more difficult over a 2 month period. Take it to your favorite mechanic to change. The V's as mentioned are not a quick easy change. Dogbert is correct with his info. The cable goes under the fuel tank, and is difficult to access.
Good luck!!"Just Surf Damn it"
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i agree it sounds like the cable is going bad. i also agree that is a pain in the azz. i have done a handful on v drives and they are not fun. if you have the factory ballast its even more of a P.I.T.A. I have never done an 04 but its all about getting the back seat out floor up and tank lifted. the 05 seat is harder than my 03 but im not 100% how the 04 is. either way its a tuff job. good luck.
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