Trailer Hitch Issue

[MRMoffat1]

Background: First trip with new '06 boat/trailer last year, the eletrical reverse lockout mechanism broke, preventing backing up the trailer. I used the spare reverse lockout plug to get by. The dealer determined later it was a solenoid failure, and replaced the whole trailer hitch assembly. Since then, two issues: 1. oil leaking (attributed to overfilling the reservoir - continuing to monitor). Should the oil be filled just up to the tip of the plug, or flush with the gasket?
2. Compression difference. As I remember, based on my last '99 boat/trailer with same hitch, and prior to the replacement this time, that you needed some pressure to pull the hitch from the "most compressed" position, to the "most extended" position. I did this by hand after backing the boat up, and releasing from tow vehicle and tow ball, to store (following manufacturer recommendation). Now it just slides out easy as if on a rail. I also think I notice a difference from starting off from a stop while trailering as well. Can anybody double check for me before I go to the dealer with this?
Summary:
Normal: much pressure to compress and "some" pressure to extend
Current: much pressure to compress, but NO pressure required to extend.

Thanks. See photo for reference.

[spharis]

There is a spring that will assist it in coming foward, so it doesn't take much to extend. Compression should take some force. You can double check it is working by using a flat blade screwdriver, and pressing the plunger while watching inside the resevoir to see if the piston is moving or not.

The fill line is to the bottom of the opening. It doesn't need more than 1/4 of that resevoir to operate though.

[MRMoffat1]

There is a spring that will assist it in coming foward, so it doesn't take much to extend. Compression should take some force. You can double check it is working by using a flat blade screwdriver, and pressing the plunger while watching inside the resevoir to see if the piston is moving or not.

The fill line is to the bottom of the opening. It doesn't need more than 1/4 of that resevoir to operate though.

Agree - it shouldn't take much, but it should take some pressure as I remember, to pull it out. In my current situation, it pops right out like it's on roller blades.

[spharis]

I cannot compress mine by hand. I could with my old one.

[mtnsmith]

I just converted from drums to disc and noticed that the actuator assembly moves easier but I was told it would because there was a little valve in the actuator that kept some pressure on the brake shoes with the drums. I had to brake the valve when I converted to discs. Did you have drums before and now have discs? Maybe the difference in how the two actuators react is what you're feeling.

[MRMoffat1]

I cannot compress mine by hand. I could with my old one.

Compression: agree, I never could with either of the trailers I had. In the situation I'm discussing now, I'm refering to pulling out the hitch assy (which now seems way to easy), not compressing.

[spharis]

I have a brand new actuator I purchased when I did my conversion. It sounds like you have air in your brake lines, or a leak somewhere. Are your brakes engaging? I had to replace all my brake line, including that inside the frame, as it was rusted out and gone. I put rubber DOT line on the exterior of the frame.

As far as why it is popping out so easy, I don't know. Mine is hard to disengage too. Maybe you have a leak?

[MRMoffat1]

I just converted from drums to disc and noticed that the actuator assembly moves easier but I was told it would because there was a little valve in the actuator that kept some pressure on the brake shoes with the drums. I had to brake the valve when I converted to discs. Did you have drums before and now have discs? Maybe the difference in how the two actuators react is what you're feeling.

I had discs before as well.

[MRMoffat1]

I have a brand new actuator I purchased when I did my conversion. It sounds like you have air in your brake lines, or a leak somewhere. Are your brakes engaging? I had to replace all my brake line, including that inside the frame, as it was rusted out and gone. I put rubber DOT line on the exterior of the frame.

That is the real question - I had a couple of scares last year where I thought the brakes should have done "better" - I kept looking at the oil level. Probably overfilled, and thought I had fixed it - but's its been nagging me for quite a while, while I start thinking of those trips coming up this summer.

[spharis]

If you have someone to engage the brakes by hand, you can test the engagement while you bleed the brakes. When I bled my brakes the first few times, I would get an occasional air bubble in the resevoir itself from the little ring on the piston.

[mtnsmith]

A good bleeding was going to be my next suggestion. If you know anyone with a vacuum bleeder you might want to borrow it, I did and it was a huge help. If there is air then maybe your actuator is compressing too far and that is why it is going in and out so much. Mine really does not move that far when the brakes get depressed.

[MRMoffat1]

mtnsmith, spharis - good suggestions, thanks.

[spharis]

Yeah if it is working correctly, it will not compress fully, and will be progressively harder as the piston presses in.

[chpthril]

I'd say check the fittings and then bleed. My trailer was delivered "dry" and after I filled the master cyl and bled, it has worked great.

Here is a thread about bleeding trailer brakes.

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...trailer+brakes

[MRMoffat1]

Yeah if it is working correctly, it will not compress fully, and will be progressively harder as the piston presses in.

Ah - it is compressing fully to the stop.