Electrical Problems

[BlackoutATX]

I've had the new engine in the RZ4 for a couple of weeks now. But haven't had a chance to get out on the water until this weekend. Well, today I was taking some family for a cruise and I noticed the house and crank battery readings were dropping pretty fast. After about 30 minutes of cruising, I was getting low voltage warnings. Halfway back to the house the boat went into limp mode and wouldn't go over about 7.5mph. I barely made it back to the house. I originally was thinking alternator or maybe even the crank battery. But, during the trip back I noticed both house and crank were in sync with their readings. Which I found odd enough take a look at the wiring when we got back to the house. I already had all the panels and switch pulled in preparation to add my 4 AGM batteries back into the system. To my surprise, it was all completely wrong. So much that its not even worth explaining. I don't know if I was more shocked or mad about it.

I think I got everything sorted out by using the diagrams for the ProIsoCharge and Blue Sea Switch (6011) which I've attached below. But I'm a little confused on a few things.

1) Where do the wires coming off the ProIsoCharge for each battery bank (Bat 1 Crank and Bat 2 House) need to end up? On the ProIsoCharge diagram they are going to the switch. But on the Blue Sea ACR diagram they are going directly to the battery. When I sent the boat in to have the engine work done, I swapped out my 4 battery house bank for the stock battery. Mainly because I knew I was moving them and I thought it would give them more room to work. I could have sworn I remembered the Bat 2 wire coming off the ProIsoCharge was directly connected to the house battery. But now I'm not sure.

2) Just for confirmation, can someone confirm the other connection locations for the other major cables? Again I think I'm good here. But thought I'd double check here.

[chpthril]

The problem is, you a device from promariner wired with a device from bluesea. Neither is going to show the use of the other's product, in their diagrams. This is evident in the posted diagrams above. What you need is either a custom wiring diagram or the Tige diagram from Tige, which is their custom diagram.

With that said, look close at the two 2-post switches shown in the procharge diag and the one 4-post switch shown in the bluesea diag. Its nothing more then two switches controlled by one knob.

[BlackoutATX]

The problem is, you a device from promariner wired with a device from bluesea. Neither is going to show the use of the other's product, in their diagrams. This is evident in the posted diagrams above. What you need is either a custom wiring diagram or the Tige diagram from Tige, which is their custom diagram.

With that said, look close at the two 2-post switches shown in the procharge diag and the one 4-post switch shown in the bluesea diag. Its nothing more then two switches controlled by one knob.

Yes I know the blue sea is essentially two switches with one knob. This is why I was confused. They are essentially showing the same setup. Maybe I’ll shoot Tige an email and see what I can get from them.


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[KoolAid]

Both isolator wires should be on the dead side of the switch. On the house, you can put it on the positive bus bar. On the cranking, put it on the dead side of the switch on the cranking side.

One major thing to look at is did they run a wire from the alternator to the isolator?

Is the isolator lighting up when the engine is on? Did the ground wire get pulled off of it?

[BlackoutATX]

Electrical Problems

Both isolator wires should be on the dead side of the switch. On the house, you can put it on the positive bus bar. On the cranking, put it on the dead side of the switch on the cranking side.

One major thing to look at is did they run a wire from the alternator to the isolator?

Is the isolator lighting up when the engine is on? Did the ground wire get pulled off of it?

That is how I hooked it up last night. crank isolator wire to dead side of switch, house isolator wire to positive bus bar. Wire from the alternator to the isolator looks fine. Iso was lighting up last night. But I was also getting a flashing green light which indicates low or nothing coming from the alternator. I'm now wondering if my alternator might be bad. When the engine was replace, the alternator was something they were able to salvage. It could have just kicked the bucket. Although it seems odd it would have stopped working in the time between engine instal and now. Which is less than 3 engine hours.

Edit: photo of iso with arrow to flashing green light.

[KoolAid]

Alternator may be toast. The alternator should feed the engine at the same time it feeds the isolator. Be sure the connections are good, especially the 4 pin plug on the alternator.

[freeheel4life]

I would ground your meter at battery and probe alternator B+ post at alternator. 13.2-14.4 is a healthy alternator. Of you are reading 12.4ish you are seeing battery voltage. If you see 18v alternator isn't "seeing" batteries through the isolator and voltage regulator full fields.

[BlackoutATX]

Well I believe I have this sorted out. The main problem is I keep popping the 60A fuse on the alternator. Alternator (I believe) is brand new. Any ideas what would keep making this pop?


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[freeheel4life]

Is the fuse blowing immediately or after restarts when you've been sitting jamming tunes in the cove??

I am wondering if for some reason your fuse got swapped at some point and is underrated. Pretty sure that alternator should be 95A alternator.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat..._Battery_Fuses
Im assuming this is the 60A you are blowing. If so I would up it to closer to a 95A. If it blows again I would say you have a short to ground.
Even if your alternator is the older 70A I would say a 60A is underrated.

If you are jamming tunes in the cove and start back up with low state of charge a healthy alternator will charge at or close to ita rated output then current will drop off as battery charge comes back up.

[BlackoutATX]

Is the fuse blowing immediately or after restarts when you've been sitting jamming tunes in the cove??

I am wondering if for some reason your fuse got swapped at some point and is underrated. Pretty sure that alternator should be 95A alternator.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat..._Battery_Fuses
Im assuming this is the 60A you are blowing. If so I would up it to closer to a 95A. If it blows again I would say you have a short to ground.
Even if your alternator is the older 70A I would say a 60A is underrated.

If you are jamming tunes in the cove and start back up with low state of charge a healthy alternator will charge at or close to ita rated output then current will drop off as battery charge comes back up.

Wow. This is such a simple solution. But hadn’t even occurred to me. I assumed the dealer that installed the new engine would use the correct fuse. I have 4 big agm bats that definitely would pull max from the alt. I’ll check my alt and report back. Thanks!


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[freeheel4life]

I would also double check the ratings of you proiso and ACR before going nuts, but I believe they are like 115A to 120A continuous.

[BlackoutATX]

From the only number meet I can make out on the alternator it appears to be this one which is 100A . *facepalm


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[freeheel4life]

I would call or email Indmar to verify amperage All the Raptor alternators are the same. The SC Raptor just had the back of the alternator clocked different to allow the plug to clear.

[BlackoutATX]

I received this from Indmar today...

The alternator is 95A. I am not familiar with how the charging system is configured in the boat. We do not install that fuse on the alternator or the ProlSoCharge 12. I believe the boat manufacturer installs those items so they must have a reason why they choose the size fuse that they use. You should really check with them.



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[freeheel4life]

So I can't quite make it out in your pic, and the charging system did change between Indmars sent palletized setup and Tige's final build (you will probably find just back in the harness a doubled back red wire that Indmar ran to the starter).

Guess you have a mini little bus bar with a threaded post that holds the MRBF fuse that's blowing. If that's the case the Alternator is sending close to 95A and the fuse is inderrated. Couldn't tell you how the 60a is blowing. Just know it's losing.