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Winterizing a 08 RZ2 Marine Power 5.7L first time

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    Winterizing a 08 RZ2 Marine Power 5.7L first time

    I have winterized my old 01 21V, that was a piece of cake and very straight forward and I expect the RZ2 will be too.

    I think I have found the oil filter, it's a quick silver so I will cross reference it with another.

    I do have few questions

    First I see something that looks like a fuel filter on back port side it doesn't look like it comes apart? Is there a fuel filter that I'm clearly missing.

    .20171022_085825.jpg20171022_085900.jpg

    My old boat I would put 15/40 for oil weight of choice. Does any one see an issue using 15/40 with this engine? Anyone using synthetic oil in them?

    First time with Ballast tanks & Bags. I plan on putting a gallon in each bag/tank and run it so it goes through the pumps

    Always use RV Anti freeze, fog engine, Fuel stabil in fuel.

    If there is something that I'm missing regarding this engine please let me know.

    Boat is always kept in my garage, not heated but very rarely gets below 38 degrees.

    Thanks you for your input/answers in advanced! Not ready to put her a way!!!

    Sam
    15 Escalade ESV-Black
    08 RZ2-Blue

    #2
    https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...UaArXSEALw_wcB

    We use the Sierra 18-7824-2. It's shorter and easier to get out of bilges. It's just a GM small block filter, can get it at any auto parts store. Only other filter I know of that is different for GM is the 4.3l V6 filter on Mercs. Otherwise it's same filter on 5.7l, 6.0L, and 8.1L. PCM engines are the exception, they run a remote filter that is a Ford filter. We run a 25-40 syn blend as our shops oil in most boats besides Raptor s and new volvos.

    That fuel canister is no fun to get apart. There are some other posts here on the forum regarding it if you search. Pretty much always requires removal to a bench and a vice. Can't remember but follow fuel line from tanks and see if there is a small automotive style inline fuel filter as well.

    Drain water from engine and manifolds first before running on antifreeze. Don't fog thru intake. If you have shower or heater don't forget about those. If you are running antifreeze in from thru hull side of vdrive you are good, if your run antifreeze post v drive don't forget to back flush some antifreeze into v drive.

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      #3
      Here is the fuel filter that goes in the high pressure pump in your top picture

      https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XS...FWL&ref=plSrch

      And if you have never replaced it, I would suggest having a replacement high pressure pump cartridge on hand

      https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XS...O2L&ref=plSrch

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        #4
        Don’t forget to drain your transmission cooler. Starboard side of engine inline on the water hose coming from the drive. Just loosen the clamp off one side and pop the hose off. There is a drain plug but it’s a bitch to get back on.
        I use synthetic 15/40 in my boat.
        I’m in Denver, unheated garage and I don’t bother with the antifreeze in the block. I just pull the knock sensors(2), the manifold drains(2), use a piece of hanger or something small enough to poke into the holes to get any crud or metal fakes that may clog the hole up. You can shop vac the holes for extra piece of mind. Remove the water pump impeller (both to drain residual water and so it doesn’t take a set) I replace mine beginning of the year, and keep the previous year impeller for a backup. They’re around $40. Lastly pull the spark plugs and the electrical connector on the fuel pump and fog the cylinders. You can bump the starter to rotate the cylinders.
        I also pull my middle seat out and the floor and vac out any water in the bilge so it’s nice and dry. I don’t want it to freeze around the shaft seal.
        Last edited by Jetdriver; 11-06-2017, 07:33 AM.

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