My first time winterizing

[JohnnieMo]

After three years of letting Tigé do it (I figured it would help with warranty) I decided to tackle this myself on my 2013 Tigé Z1. It has the PCM EX343 with 1.48 Power Plus. I had a couple concerns to run past you guys.

First issue was thhis nut on the vdrive. It was completely loose and spinning. I assume it is meant to be torqued. What is it and what should it be torqued to?







Next issue came when I was attempting to drain the oil. This hose is supposed to run out through the bilge drain. However it doesn't fit! Am I missing something? I think it would be easier to get a pump.



I took videos to try and out together a how to. I must say it was harder than I expected. There are 7 plugs, 3 hoses plus the 4 ballasts. You need about 5 wrenches plus a socket to do all the hose clamps. I used 30L of antifreeze too. Btw I couldn't find any marine grade stuff. I asked at the dealer and looked at 5 stores. Everyone just uses standard -50 RV antifreeze, so that's what I did too.

I'll have to do the oil and impeller in the spring.

[bsreid]

Did you put antifreeze in the block or just drain it? From my experience I’ve just heard of people draining and putting anti freeze in the ballast.

Regarding the oil, it is much much easier just to suck it out with a pump.

[chpthril]

no, say it isnt so! You used automotive antifreeze?

The nut is the other end of the prop shaft. I presume it should be tight but do not know a spec, sorry

An oil change pump is the way to go. However, since you have already drain the block water and induced antifreeze, maybe reconsider the oil change. You need to run the engine once the new filter is on and the block is filled with new oil. Cant now without pumping all the antifreeze out, which needs to be captured in a barrel.

Next time, get some pink RV/Marine antifreeze. Look for some early so you can find it.

[JohnnieMo]

My first time winterizing

You misunderstand. I used pink RV antifreeze but the other winterization thread noted there are specific types meant for engine parts. I couldn’t find that.

The stuff I used says it works for plastic and metal so I figured that was fine. Some say not to use in metal, but I think they are referring to copper pipe.



I'll buy an oil pump off Amazon. I didn't know I needed to run the boat after oil swap. I can do it in spring.

[chpthril]

Yes, I did misunderstand. Most important part is that its not antifreeze coolant for street engines. Sorry.

Without running the engine to circulate the fresh oil, you leave the dirty caustic oil in the soft metal parts of the engine. Now, its not an incredibly huge deal, its just best practice to change in the fall and run the engine for a couple of minutes after. Also, you will want the engine at temp anyway in order to drain/extract the old oil.

[JohnnieMo]

... you will want the engine at temp anyway in order to drain/extract the old oil.

I thought that 30L would be enough pink goo to get the boat up to operating temp. Turns out that was not even close. It sucked each jug in a minute. The good news is the captured goo was reused for the ballast tanks.

When you use an oil pump do you still just attach it to the drain hose, or is there a better access?

[chpthril]

If you drained the block of water first, the first two jugs likely went to refilling the block and then the last forced it out the exhaust. I like to have everything else done, including fogging (if needed depending on engine), drain engine of all water, reinstall plugs and hoses, then fire up and let the pink in. and let ti run until its good color coming out exhaust. When last couple of L's of pink is going in, fog it down the intake and then shut it off and not start it again.

Most of the time down here, I just drain water. No need for AF. no water = nothing to freeze. Theres some debate on corrosion between empty block and block filled with marine/RV AF. With our short layup, I dont think its worth the worry.

The one i use, sucks out through the dip stick tube. Just get a quality one that uses stiff plastic tubes and not the soft nylon or vinyl type hose. They curl up in the hot oil and get hung on the end of the dipstick tube.

[JohnnieMo]

If you drained the block of water first, the first two jugs likely went to refilling the block and then the last forced it out the exhaust. I like to have everything else done, including fogging (if needed depending on engine), drain engine of all water, reinstall plugs and hoses, then fire up and let the pink in. and let ti run until its good color coming out exhaust. When last couple of L's of pink is going in, fog it down the intake and then shut it off and not start it again.

Most of the time down here, I just drain water. No need for AF. no water = nothing to freeze. Theres some debate on corrosion between empty block and block filled with marine/RV AF. With our short layup, I dont think its worth the worry.

The one i use, sucks out through the dip stick tube. Just get a quality one that uses stiff plastic tubes and not the soft nylon or vinyl type hose. They curl up in the hot oil and get hung on the end of the dipstick tube.

Well it sure did suck the antifreeze in fast. That little impeller sure goes hard. That reminds me, I'll need to swap the impeller in the spring also. I don't love having old oil in there over winter, but I'm not too worried about it either. The boat only got about 60 hours on it this year. The oil will be pretty decent.

It will be nice to use an extractor from the top. I hate climbing under this thing. Maybe little guys can do it, but I'm not cut out for all this.

Thanks for your help. Hopefully someone else knows what torque that nut to.

[freeheel4life]

Johnnie sent you an PM. Forgot to mention shaft nut. You got lucky shaft didn't fall out. Dealt with it on a z3 this year. Hit me up via pm or #

[JohnnieMo]

Johnnie sent you an PM. Forgot to mention shaft nut. You got lucky shaft didn't fall out. Dealt with it on a z3 this year. Hit me up via pm or #

Thanks for the offer! The boat is successfully winterized now, and just in time too. A wicked snow storm blew in and it's heading down to -7. (more on that later)

If you are aware of the torque spec for that nut, please let me know.

Here is the video I made on my process to winterize the PCM EX343. It was a long ways from easy. It took me a full day, however most of my time was spent trying to find all the (7!) plugs and (3) hoses. To make it even more complicated each one takes a different sized wrench. Best bet is go with a crescent wrench.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vjDp_C-jmc

[bsreid]

I saw the weather for Calgary this morning and was like wow, it’s a good thing you got your winterizong done. I’m dreading the winter season.

[bsreid]

I found the perfect step by step write up for anyone interested in the future.

https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...ion-of-pcm-343

[freeheel4life]

Johnnie,
I don't have a torque spec. Last one I did I got it as tight as I could get it with and 1 1/8 socket and my BIG breaker bar. Its worth investigating if nylon is shot and that's why the nut backed off. The z3 that I had it happen to was also a 13 so something about that years nylock nuts, or something else seems to be a problem. I could only get brass nylock nuts and it was a bit of a rush job, so went with a stainless nut and a stainless split lock washer, also a generous helping of red Loctite. Boat just came back in for wint and I blocked off prop and re-checked and it hadn't loosened up at all. Justin at Tige may be able to give you a real number in regards to ft/lbs, or in your case n Newton meters . With that much nut backed off I wonder if shaft was sliding in and out a bit when going between forward and reverse. Imagine you would have heard it though.

Friendly reminder for you guys doing your own wints as they get forgotten a lot, showers and heaters.

[JohnnieMo]

Johnnie,
I don't have a torque spec. Last one I did I got it as tight as I could get it with and 1 1/8 socket and my BIG breaker bar. Its worth investigating if nylon is shot and that's why the nut backed off. The z3 that I had it happen to was also a 13 so something about that years nylock nuts, or something else seems to be a problem. I could only get brass nylock nuts and it was a bit of a rush job, so went with a stainless nut and a stainless split lock washer, also a generous helping of red Loctite. Boat just came back in for wint and I blocked off prop and re-checked and it hadn't loosened up at all. Justin at Tige may be able to give you a real number in regards to ft/lbs, or in your case n Newton meters . With that much nut backed off I wonder if shaft was sliding in and out a bit when going between forward and reverse. Imagine you would have heard it though.

Friendly reminder for you guys doing your own wints as they get forgotten a lot, showers and heaters.

There is no nylon to speak of on that nut. I contacted the dealer and they said it was the wrong nut. I've never touched that thing before, so it either came that way, or the dealer did it. Either way they are getting me the proper nut. They say it is supposed to be 90 ft-lbs. (and yes we use ft-lbs in Canada) I assume that to tighten I will need to block the propeller, yes?

I don't have a shower, but I sure would like one

[chpthril]

Looks brass, not bronze, certainly not stainless.