replacing bunks

[spharis]

Might be a stupid question, but I need to replace my bunks, and I need to replace the hardware too. My brackets are welded on, with a single hole in with a bolt coming through attached with a nut on the bottom. Is there some sort of bracket that attaches to the bunk with this bolt in it already, else how do you mount the bolt to the bunk?

[spharis]

Forums died last night before I could post back an edit.

I was going to add that from what i can tell, the best way is going to be to just cut, carpet, and then use some lag screw fastners through the bottom.

[bfrank]

I just replaced my bunks, what I did was measure all the lengths of wood, went and bought some new treated lumber (the originals were not treated) and covered them with bunk carpet I bought a local hardware store.
After my new bunks were set I carefully jacked up the boat using a 6 foot 2x4 and a floor jack ( I used the 2x4 to spread out the weight) I did one side at a time.

I removed all the old lags and replaced them with new stainless ones.

Once the boat was jacked up I removed the old lags and slid the old bunks out and set the new ones in place, I then marked the holes and drilled out pilot holes for the new lags.
Once the pilots were made I put the new ones in place and screwed them in.

It was real easy!!!

For safety I had the boat hooked up to the truck and placed jack stands to keep the boat from crushing me.
You can also take your boat to the launch and do it right there if you are all prepped, that way you don't have to jack up the boat.

[anhaney]

Went to Lowes Home Improvement store. Bought an electric brad gun $29.00hand staple gun will work just fine though $17.00. Bought the treated wood. Bought some staples I was unable to find stainless. But who cares it is the bunks on the bottom side. Bought some 3/4 in arrow 150 staples. Went to the carpet center purchased indoor outdoor carpet runner 27" wide and 12' feet long since I only need 12" wide pieces I split the carpet runner in half. Hooked up the power inverter in the truck. went to the lake took a drill with a 1" drill bit. launched and anchored the boat. positioned the bunks. Marked the holes. Drilled half way through the board so the screw head would set down inside the board flush. Mounted the boards. Cut carpet to size and stapled into place. Works great. This is how I did my wave runners now I am going to do my boat the same way this weekend.

Total cost for tools, carpet, nuts and bolts came to $80.00 and I got a real heavy duty carpet with a rubber backing. Now that I have the tools it should cost half that price.

[spharis]

I ended up using a sawzall to cut the old bunks off. I just lag screwed the new ones from the bottom. Seemed like the easiest solution.

[dogbert]

I did the same thing. I used 8"x12' bung carpet rolls because that's what was used before. I only had material for 2 of the 4 and the 2 inner bunks were the worst off. I was able to do this while my boat was on my lift.

[Ruune]

I'm actually doing the same thing. One of my bunks actually came apart as I was pulling my boat off the trailer last week. I havent noticed any gelcoat missing off the bottom. Anyways, I happend to have some 2x6s that were just a slight bit shorter on hand. So, I tied my boat up to the dock and drilled some new holes, using a larger bit to countersink the heads. I also happend to have a roll of 4" bunk carpet left over from another project, which I made use of.

That said, I've got some 8" wide bunk carpet on order, and I'll be replacing all the bunks on the trailer with wider, pressure treated wood... mine weren't treated either. Note: I dont have a Tigé trailer.

[dogbert]

You probably have that same Roadmaster POS that I have. Next time I'm gettin' a Magnum. I wouldn't pre-drill the holes because the lag bolts should be very snug.

[Ruune]

Yeah, I've got a roadmaster tandem axle with brakes, but overall its been pretty reliable. The ski dock is selling magnums now (good thing too- they're made about 5 miles away!), so I'll definitely be getting a magnum on my next boat. Might go with electric brakes too.

[anhaney]

I ended up using a sawzall to cut the old bunks off. I just lag screwed the new ones from the bottom. Seemed like the easiest solution.

If you use lag bolts from the bottom they can fall out and the bunk will slip out from under the boat while going down the road. You need to put the bolts in from the top down and counter sink the bold heads. Then put the carpet over the bolt. This way worse case if the double nuts fall off the boat bottom is sitting on top of the bolts and they can not back out This will at least keep the bunk on the trailer and it will not slip out from under the boat going down the road. I check my bunks for tightness two or three times a year. I have never had a problem yet with the exception of the carpet that I need to start to replace. It has not torn yet but it is getting close. I have found that reason it tears is you because you do not go deep enough with the trailer when launching and loading. Your boat should go deep enough when launching that it floats completely of the bunks. And deep enough when loading that it just barley hits the front bunks for alignment.

[Razzman]

Well mine are bolted in from the bottom with lags and i've still got the original bunks on the 12 year old trailer! Yeah they could use new carpet but amazingly they are not that bad. If you use pressure treated wood, pre-drill a small hole and coat each lagbolt with some silicone before you screw them there's no way they are going to back out. Not to mention the silicone will help re-seal the hole and prevent water from entering the wood.

[dogbert]

If you use lag bolts from the bottom they can fall out and the bunk will slip out from under the boat while going down the road. You need to put the bolts in from the top down and counter sink the bold heads. Then put the carpet over the bolt. This way worse case if the double nuts fall off the boat bottom is sitting on top of the bolts and they can not back out This will at least keep the bunk on the trailer and it will not slip out from under the boat going down the road. I check my bunks for tightness two or three times a year. I have never had a problem yet with the exception of the carpet that I need to start to replace. It has not torn yet but it is getting close. I have found that reason it tears is you because you do not go deep enough with the trailer when launching and loading. Your boat should go deep enough when launching that it floats completely of the bunks. And deep enough when loading that it just barley hits the front bunks for alignment.

I don't think I've ever seen a trailer bolted down this way, at least not here in Texas.

[spharis]

They will back out, but I check mine frequently.

[dogbert]

They will back out, but I check mine frequently.

I check mine also, but have never had an issue with it backing out. I do recommend using galvanized lag bolts. My original ones weren't galvanized and began rusting. The chemicals they use to process the boards further accelerate their demise.

[anhaney]

I check mine also, but have never had an issue with it backing out. I do recommend using galvanized lag bolts. My original ones weren't galvanized and began rusting. The chemicals they use to process the boards further accelerate their demise.

Great info I never thought about the chemicals adding to the corrosion. Thanks for the surf dogbert. It was great.