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1998 21v

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    1998 21v

    Hello I'm looking at a 98 21v this afternoon to buy. It's first boat for me. What do I look for when inspecting boat. Any tips on how not to get ripped off? Guy says water pump needs to be replaced is this common and is the other issues that led to water pump going? Thanks

    #2
    water pump or at least the impellor inside should be replaced at least yearly based on hours used. it soundslike he didnt witnerize it yet.
    check for condition of material. chaeck that floor is not soft or spongy. check for cracks in gel coat. check for impact to the running gear.
    take it out on the water, drive it. make sure taps works boat rides and drives to your liking.
    - post up photos on here we love them.
    check tower stability

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      #3
      My guess is its the Merc 350, as Yllw20 said the water pump/impellor is an annual change and most of us can do it in about an hour or some guys call it a 2 beer job. Check the TAPS Plate for sure, make sure it moves fully up and down and the gauge reads properly as well. How many hours are on the boat? What is the asking price? Does it have ballast? Make sure the skags (spelling?) are straight, no massive divots in the prop. Turn the wheel and move the rudder, make sure the steering cable doesn't need to be replaced (will be stiff if its going bad). I HIGHLY recommend you test drive the boat, there is a lot to be said about a seller that is willing to take you out on the boat. Once on the water, watch the gauges, TEMP should never reach over 175 degrees. Run it around as if it were your boat, not saying drive it like you stole it, but if you are wakeboarding drive from a stop and power up as if you were pulling a wakeboarder up and drive around at 23-25mph and see how it handles, rides. After all is said and done, open the hatch and see how much water is in bilge if its anything more than 1/2 gallon then the shaft seal packing may need to be replaced. All in all, most things are pretty easy to fix and this forum will be an invaluable tool to help you diagnose or walk through a repair.

      GOOD LUCK and Definitely POST PICS
      My life's journey is not ending up looking pretty, its sliding in broadside, used up, worn out, screaming "What a Ride"

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        #4
        There are 2 water pumps. I have replaced both. Both are not big deal. The stearing cable is pretty easy to replace as well.

        definitely do not buy without a water test. Check the prop shaft and make sure it is straight. Check the prop for dings. Check the hull for evidence of beaching on sand or gravel. The vinyl should be in good shape.m. If it s all faded it was left outside. Not it all stained it was left in the water.

        In the end, if well maintained it should be a decent boat. Perfect pass, a nice tower and an acme prop are required.

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          #5
          thank you as soon as I can I will post pics

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            #6
            I'm doing a water test tomorrow. The guy wants 8,800 for the boat. Has newer interior and carpet and a little fading above swim deck. Is this a good price if all checks out? Also how important is it to have boat shop do a thorough inspection?

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              #7
              Boat has 400 hours. Should this effect the 8,800 he is asking?

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                #8
                Good Luck with the water test, it never hurts to have a dealer take a look at it especially to run a fuel system pressure check and a compression check on the pistons for you. Some dealers charge a flat rate inspection fee, but I paid it both times I bought a new boat just for the peace of mind. The hours is more informational, there are 2 common arguments both being valid:

                1. Low Hours-boat sat for extended periods of time, seals and gaskets get dried and cracked can be expensive to replace. However low hours could be mean it was used enough and treated gently and lots of years left.
                2. High Hours-boat was used excessively and motor may be near end of life span and re-build. Used a lot because it was a good boat, and had limited problems that it could be used as much as it was.

                I would not be to concerned about the winterization, your in Cali we just don't get the super low temps that guys back east get so not a deal breaker. The seats are far more important than the carpet IMO, I sit on the seats more then I do the carpet and carpet kits are not that expensive. The fading about the swim step is common, I have an 06 and have some fading there as well, its usually from the exhaust.

                Know for the big question the PRICE....$8800 for an 98 Tige' 21V with 400 hours, without pictures I would say seems about fair for a 17 year old Tige and its a V-Drive.
                My life's journey is not ending up looking pretty, its sliding in broadside, used up, worn out, screaming "What a Ride"

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                  #9
                  thank you for the feed back. can i put my napa compression tester on each cylinder and check them that way? and if the answer is yes do you know what the compression should be for a 17 year old boat

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                    #10
                    8800 is pretty fair. Especially if everything checks out. If it is leaking, squeeking, stiff steering, has any trashed vinyl etc use that to get it for around $8k. Understand that you will probably put a thousand into it off the bat changing water pumps, impellers, alternators, etc. for another few thousand you can get a tower, perfect pass and upgraded prop....those are necessary for this boat. That will get you a nice boat for about 14-15k that is all refreshed. Love my 98 2200v. I bought mine about 7 summers ago for about $17k with 300 hrs. Have put about 800 great hours on it since.

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                      #11
                      Wow! $8800 seem cheap. My 2000 21v was more than twice that amount. Is there a lot different between these years?

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                        #12
                        TheGerman618 said it right.... Basically you can never be too careful buying from either private party or from a dealer.. buying a boat that old (I can say that as mine is getting there too) and for that "$8,800" price, sorry to say it but you are bound to have things that are wrong with it.. If not right away then probably soon thereafter depending upon how well the owner took care of it.. You can only check so many seals and listen to squeaking until you make yourself crazy. Get a mechanic to check it out and test drive it on the water.. If it feels good you will know.. open the motor hatch while you are stopped with the motor running.. drive with it open at a low speed to see how it sounds and have the seller drive while you visually inspect the motor. Even if you know nothing at all and don't get a mechanic to look at it.. at least you will more than likely be able to hear or see something that is flagrantly wrong (i.e. leaks, knocks, etc).

                        Just like Bakes5 said.. be prepared to dump a thousand into it as Murphy's Law and the acronym "BOAT" (Break out another thousand) come to fruition. I am a glass half full guy and if you check as much as you can and enjoy your boat enough to offset some repairs then you'll sleep better at night. Good thing is that you're saving money by buying an older boat, it's a Tige (so that is a plus), and you have this website!

                        @UNSTUCK- I feel ya man...That is a great price if everything checks out... Just going to depend on condition and what you have invested in the boat and what the 'buyer' sees value in... I paid 22k for mine back in 2009 and I thought it was fair... Economy, upgrades, condition, and the right buyer will play a huge role in the ability to sell at a higher price.Personally, I wouldn't sell my boat for anything shy of 18k and mine is a 2001 2100v... But I have also put a lot of upgrades and take care of my boat pretty well IMO.

                        Now get us some pictures and let's seal the deal... Remember if it is too good of a deal then either something may be wrong or it may go quick! Hope for the latter! Just my

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                          #13
                          Definitely pics. Let's see vinyl, engine, carpet, tower, prop, bow, hull

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                            #14
                            Yeah that price almost seems too good to be true. My '99 21v was 16k (250 hours, but no trailer) back in 2013. I thought I hit it out of the park with that deal. Be sure to take it for a water test and I would DEFINITELY get a pre purchase inspection by a marine shop if possible.

                            But if everything checks out, you found yourself the deal of the century! Let's see pics and maybe we can help point out a few things to watch out for!


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                              #15
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