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2006 22ve limp mode

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    #31
    IMG_8944.jpg
    Originally posted by KoolAid View Post
    * Find the pink wire at the 16 pin connector on the tac module. trace it back into the loom about 2 feet and cut it. - this pink wire goes all the way to the ignition key/switch.

    * Under the engine cover there is a black box that contains the engines' fuses and relays. There should be one labeled "ECM power" or something like that. Find the corresponding wire under the fuse that leads to the ecm and splice the pink wire above into it.
    I have an ECM/Battery on top and an ECM fuse in the middle. Does it matter which one. I assume that the middle three wires on the left (pink red and orange), correspond to each fuse. Would it be ok to put it into the 50A breaker?

    IMG_8954.jpg

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      #32
      Tie it into the ECM/Battery pink wire. No, do not put it on the 50 amp breaker.
      Oh Yeah!

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        #33
        Thank you very much!

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          #34
          Do you tie in before or after fuse? I believe with current wiring from ignition there is a 15A fuse between ignition and TAC. Since the rewire will eliminate the fuse it makes since to place the splice in after the ECM fuse. Amp draw from new load on rewire should not be of concern.

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            #35
            IMG_8963.jpgThank you everyone for the great help. It's great to have this resource with all of you knowledgeable members who help newbies like myself so much. Thank you!

            I changed the potentiometer and decided to wait on the rewire to try to isolate the problem. I have the wires ready to quickly cut and splice if needed but the potentiometer seems to have fixed the issue. I have taken the boat out a handful of times and never went into limp mode.

            I wasn't able to find calibration instructions but once installed it can be calibrated simply by moving the potentiometer up and down before fully tightening the two nuts until you're between .95 and 1.0 volt. If you aim the potentiometer down, the voltage goes down.

            Another concern I had was that the replacement part didn't come with the metal arm. This metal arm is connected to the plastic piece, which can easily be separated from the old meter. I used two butter knifes to pry it off.




            Once again, thank you everyone for the great advice in getting my Tigé running great again.
            Attached Files
            Last edited by Martin22ve; 10-10-2017, 05:20 PM.

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              #36
              CODE81

              Just putting this here so I can find it later as a search term.
              Oh Yeah!

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                #37
                Let me add this to help make it an all in one.

                Using a digital voltmeter with the engine at idle measure voltage between G(white) and J(black). Reading should be 5.0V. Then measure between F(blue) and J(black). Reading should be .95-1.0V. Measure from the back side of the connector as it must be plugged into the TAC module. If the second reading is out of range, the potentiometer on the throttle apparatus must be adjusted slightly

                Here is where the adjustment takes place on the throttle.
                Attached Files
                Oh Yeah!

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