Is it normal for the vault gauge to be reading 1 volt off 11.80 while everywhere else is reading 12.5 in idle and in high idle it won't go past 13 volts on the gauge. Does low voltage on the gauge cause the boat to go into limp mode? There isn't an alarm sounding for the limp mode and it seems to be getting worse. Any help thanks!
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2006 22ve limp mode
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I have a 2006 22ve, and was having this limp mode problem last week. No alarm, nothing. It started happening towards the end of the day so we packed up and left.
I also noticed less voltage on the battery. so far this year I have been running everything with the switch set to 1 battery (the battery with the stereo). When I started troubleshooting the voltage issue I found that the other battery was seriously low/dead. Im not sure how the wiring is set up with the battery selector switch and how it relates to how the alternator charges the batteries.
I charged both batteries with a battery charger at home. We went on the lake yesterday and I turned the switch to select both batteries, and the boat never went into limp mode once.
Im not sure what the general consensus is about using just one battery, or using both of them. Ive had people tell me to only use the one so you have a spare full battery if something happens, I'm starting to think that advice might of been flawed. I think I will set the switch to both batteries and see if I get the problem again.
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Is it normal for the vault gauge to be reading 1 volt off 11.80 while everywhere else is reading 12.5 in idle
Does low voltage on the gauge cause the boat to go into limp mode
Describe your limp mode if theres not an alarm?Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by killerbren View PostI have a 2006 22ve, and was having this limp mode problem last week. No alarm, nothing. It started happening towards the end of the day so we packed up and left.
I also noticed less voltage on the battery. so far this year I have been running everything with the switch set to 1 battery (the battery with the stereo). When I started troubleshooting the voltage issue I found that the other battery was seriously low/dead. Im not sure how the wiring is set up with the battery selector switch and how it relates to how the alternator charges the batteries.
I charged both batteries with a battery charger at home. We went on the lake yesterday and I turned the switch to select both batteries, and the boat never went into limp mode once.
Im not sure what the general consensus is about using just one battery, or using both of them. Ive had people tell me to only use the one so you have a spare full battery if something happens, I'm starting to think that advice might of been flawed. I think I will set the switch to both batteries and see if I get the problem again.
Impossible to speculate as to how to best use the switch, without knowing how its wired.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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We read voltage off the ignition and the batteries and in the ecm box. The limp mode is getting worse and worse, it happened towards the end of last year where there was an alarm(loud buzzing) brought it in and got it scanned i just dug up the diagnostic sheet from it and code 81 throttle actuator control (TAC) malfunction TAC fault - PPS1 range TAC fault - PPS12 CORR TAC Fault - Lmtd Authority they cleared those codes ran fine and now same thing is happening this year without the buzzing alarm so Im gonna go ahead and order that part anyone know where to order from I live in a pretty remote place in northern british columbia.
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Originally posted by fasty View PostWe read voltage off the ignition and the batteries and in the ecm box. The limp mode is getting worse and worse, it happened towards the end of last year where there was an alarm(loud buzzing) brought it in and got it scanned i just dug up the diagnostic sheet from it and code 81 throttle actuator control (TAC) malfunction TAC fault - PPS1 range TAC fault - PPS12 CORR TAC Fault - Lmtd Authority they cleared those codes ran fine and now same thing is happening this year without the buzzing alarm so Im gonna go ahead and order that part anyone know where to order from I live in a pretty remote place in northern british columbia.
on one of the tech docs for my 06 20I there's a note about powering the TAC module and PPS from the engine rather than the helm, ( i think I read somewhere that Tige didn't follow this practice until 07. using the TAPS for long periods of time shuts my engine down at the moment!
here it is...
NOTE: AS THE BOAT AND BATTERIES
AGE IT, MAY BE BEST TO RUN A GROUND
AND POSITIVE JUMPER FROM CIRCUIT
#16 AND #15A TO THE ENGINE GROUND AND
50 AMP BREAKER (ON ENGINE) RESPECTIVELY.
EVEN THE SLIGHTEST DIFFERENCE IN VOLTAGE
BETWEEN THE TAC MODULE AND HELM THROTTLE
CONTROL WILL ACTIVATE A THROTTLE TROUBLE CODE
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If your 06Ve has the EIDB dual battery setup, they can set a false code 81 if a harness mod has not been done. Given the age of the boat, its also entirely possible that the TAC is failing.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Got same problem, came up this weekend. Happened before once, first time was 2010. At the time, I spent a couple of months chasing. My boat is down at Sandbar Marine with Curt in Matawa Washington, and he is troubleshooting.
Idle for periods until low enough voltage as the voltage on the voltage gauge slowly decays, maybe put the boat in drive, and instantly get the beep and goes into limp mode.
I called Lynwood Motoplex who fixed the problem in 2010 and they read me the service tag for a reminder: "4 codes found, All the same, 81. TAC.... Tige recommended if Battery grounds tight to replace the Throttle Position Actuator." Motoplex ended up replacing the Throttle Position actuator.
Up until now, its been ok.
Throttle Position Actuator same as Throttle Actuator Control?
What is this? (Assume this causes limp mode?)
NOTE: AS THE BOAT AND BATTERIES
AGE IT, MAY BE BEST TO RUN A GROUND
AND POSITIVE JUMPER FROM CIRCUIT
#16 AND #15A TO THE ENGINE GROUND AND
50 AMP BREAKER (ON ENGINE) RESPECTIVELY.
EVEN THE SLIGHTEST DIFFERENCE IN VOLTAGE
BETWEEN THE TAC MODULE AND HELM THROTTLE
CONTROL WILL ACTIVATE A THROTTLE TROUBLE CODE
And what is this?
harness mod
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My problems came back as well. The batteries were pretty charged this time so I don't think it is a battery issue anymore. It happened after trying to teach new surfers how to get up for 30-45 minutes (start stop start stop start stop, and having the boat in idle a lot). The first day it happened we were also trying to get new people up on a surf board (a lot of idling, coincidence?)
Not trying to hijack your thread, just letting you know whats happening to me to help narrow down where the issue is coming from.
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Not sure how you can have limp but no alarm. I assume your buzzer works?
Does running accessories from the helm cause it? If I move the taps whilst moving the engine goes to idle and you have to stop and start the engine.
In my case it's either voltages drop or a loose connection somewhere. I'm going to do a wiring mod when I get time and see if there is a loose connection.
As mentioned before if anyone wants the electronic throttle control wiring diagrams let me know.
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
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This happened to me last year. Boat went into limp mode, but no alarm. Initial investigation led me to batteries. Changed them both as it was getting time to anyway. Seemed to fix the issue, but then happened again on a cross country vacation/family reunion. Skipper Buds in WI squeezed me in to save a couple days of boating on the trip. They were in contact with Tige and made it sound like this fix was common. Here are the service notes:
Hooked up the computer and pulled the codes (Throttle control sensor range high).
Removed the side panel and shifter housing. Recalibrate the throttle position sensor. We found that the shifter has some play in it that can't be adjusted so we calibrated the sensor to the shifter. Hooked up the computer and confirmed readings.
As explained to me, the computer doesn't know where the throttle is positioned, so it kicks it into limp mode. The fix was to reprogram the computer to "loosen up" or expand the min/max to account for the extra mechanical play in the shifter assembly. No parts, no rewiring, just a smart guy with a computer.
I have not had the problem since (another 100 hours or so).Last edited by GzeroX5; 08-09-2015, 05:06 PM.
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Smoking gun fix verified for the problem I had (again): use boat for days, Idle for periods until low enough voltage as the voltage on the voltage gauge slowly decays, maybe put the boat in drive, instantly get the Alarm/beep and goes into limp mode. Happened twice, two weeks apart, at each time I let it idle for a length of time, which was only twice since I could tell I had symptoms from 5 years back. Codes found:
(81) Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Malfunction
(81) TAC Fault - No TAC Reply
Workorder:
1. Reset PPS-1 PPS 2 back to spec
2. Fixed wiring from Shifter to TAC per instructions above: (NOTE: AS THE BOAT AND BATTERIES.... etc)
3. Found loose wires at key switch, back of gauges, and at ground block. Tightened.
All is working now. Voltage gauge shows high 13s (up to 14.1) when charging now, no decay when idling, and no limp mode.
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