Your spindle is pretty torn up you may need a new axel.
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Pretty much restoring my 2100v Limited... Help wanted :)
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That axle has been like that ever since we owned that trailor. That entire assembally has been replaced before because all of my wheels have lugs and this one has studs. So its been worked on once before. First time its gone out on me though. We greased them up about two years ago and I remember seeing the scored up spindle.
Basically I wanna get the boat completely done as funds slowly come in before I get to the trailor.For Those About To Ride We Solute You
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Just fixed the wheel bearing... Its 2:45am and I have to work in exactly 5 hours lol... I do plan on doing the brakes. But I need to finish the front seats first and thats going to be another 100$ in vinyl and I need to get another wakeboard rope because the new one has stretch in it and thats another 100$... Along with actually getting a tag for the trailer and registering the boat in florida for how ever much that will cost. THEN I will do brakes :P... I know its easy i've done a thousand of them... But funds will only let me do alittle at a time especially with the new job and im paying alot of other stuff off.
As far as the upholstery goes... Would I recommend doing it? NO!!!! Holy cow what a pain in the *** it was lol especially if your wood is rotten. If your wood is rotten then put it back together and leave it. Thats what turned it into a year long project. I had to fabricate ALL the seats myself from scratch with nothing to work off of.
Unless you get off at 5 every day and still have alot of time energy and patience to do it then I'd say go for it.Last edited by ddmracing05; 07-04-2012, 06:53 AM.For Those About To Ride We Solute You
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**USEFUL INFO IN THIS POST**
It saves you SOOOO much money if you do it yourself. I just graduated school to work on boats. Im certified to work on outboards and rigging basically but hell, same stuff and I know how to work on cars so its all straight foward. But seriously this project has been all trial and error with basic socket set, screw drivers, and a jig saw.
While we had it out the other day I noticed the fuel gauge would say full and not change from there... Sooo I took my best guess as to where my fuel tank would be and found a bad ground wire at the fuel sending unit that was causing my problem. Fixed the wire and it is properly reading and working as it should. Theres a ground wire that comes from the boat to the sending unit. Then from the sending unit to a tab welded to the tank that prevents electrolysis (aluminum tank rusting). Repaced that wire and we are good to go.
For those who to not know, the round silver thing with multiple screws is your fuel sending unit for the gas tank. Inside is a float (basic understanding here without going in depth), that goes up and down with the fuel leven and has a needle that touches a series of copper wire (ohms) that tells the fuel gauge how much fuel is in there. These will often go bad if the tank has old fuel and has corroded. The square piece of flooring has screws you may have to dig around for that you have to undo and then pull up on it near the vdrive. Just reach under there and pull up and you will see.
Also here is the picture of the new ignition switch and impellar put together that I had to replace. I noticed that there was no part number on the thread that tells you how. So for my 2100v with the 350mag raw water pick up, we will use QUICKSILVER PART # 46-807151A14. This comes with the housing, new bolts, o-rings, and impellar. I recommend that you replace the plastic housing when you do the impellar being it is plastic and wears out just as bad as the impellar does. All together this was $85.00. In the past when we had it replaced by a shop it was nearly $300.00 and it was very easy. I would recommend the avg. DIY'er to give it a try.
I got mine on ebay for cheaper from a shop in Orlando... I didn't want to post an ebay link because they expire in the long run and people can't see it. This is the same one though that I used. Only thing thats not in the instructions that I HIGHLY recommend doing is getting some silicone grease (found at any autoparts store or in walmart automotive section) and lightly coat the inside of the housing and the impellar so it does not burn up before it gets water for the first time.
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts...FdKR7QodKnew2A
The ignition switch is easy. For me it was easier to undo the back nut first near the wires so I could undo the nut on the front of the panel that is visible while driving the boat as pictured. For mine with the 350 Mercruiser mag, I used a SEA DOG brand 3 blade ignition switch. Off-On-Start. Just swapped the wires over one at a time so nothing gets mixed up. There are letters next to the screws on the blades. Just make sure they match up with the screws you are swapping over. Some times they are placed in a different order from your old one.
This is the one that I used... I HIGHLY recommend this one with the cap so it is least likely to get water inside and last much longer. This is the 3rd time I've replaced mine, and finally got a good one so hopefully it is the last time.
http://www.iboats.com/Heavy-Duty-Sta...view_id.167945
Last edited by ddmracing05; 07-06-2012, 01:42 AM.For Those About To Ride We Solute You
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