engine hesitates/misfires

[snoopy]

my daughter and I did few ski passes this morning, everything was fine throughout. Went to take my 2001 20i 350 mpi into shore, it did not accelerate at all, the engine was lurching and gurgling when I put her in drive, reverse same thing, just did not want to go anywhere. When I put the throttle into drive just to engage the forward motion she ran like there was no problem, but the minute you wanted her to go even a little faster, she hesitates and misfires.

Oil pressure, battery, temperature, all w/i normal range when this is going on. When I put her in neutral, and rev the engine it seems to clear up sometimes, then starts misfiring. This happened one time before and when I restarted her, the RPM were 2000 in neutral for 5-15 seconds, then went to normal range and ran fine ever since...well until today. We do have a lot of weeds in our lake, but the temp stayed in normal range. I did do a search but did not see anything quite like this.

Tranny?
Bad gas? Waterfilter?
Weeds?

I am at a loss, not much season left here in MN either, need help, thanks.

[Joeprunc]

I'd say bad gas...when was the last time you were out? Have you replaced your fuel water separator? You can check your tranny fluid level, but it sounds more like it is related to the fuel system.

[snoopy]

the filter is 2 years old, 80 hours on it or so. what is the best way to change out the gas

[TeamAllen]

Try this thread.
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...ght=siphon+gas

[IDBoating]

Agree, sounds like a fuel or fuel delivery problem. Can you get to higher RPM's when you don't engage the prop? (Use the button on the throttle lever to keep the transmission disengaged.) By not engaging the transmission, the engine will need less fuel to reach higher RPM's.

Report back!

[snoopy]

took the boat in to the shop, they say it is the rotor and distributor cap. I think I am going to pay a lot for a simple fix...does this make sense for the symptoms and what I described?

it probably is the original (2000) equipment, I would think there would be heat and water to rust it out, not sure what to think. It never had trouble starting though.

Actually, now that I think of it, when idling, it did sound as though it was not firing on all cylanders, thought it was my imagination though

[bigdaddy_houseboater]

I didnt get a chance to chime in, but I was thinking ignition. I typically read the plugs first when there's any misfire. Then pull the cap.
I always do this before worrying about fuel delivery issues.
(99% of the time it's ignition.)
Pulling the plugs takes five minutes, and the cap takes about 3 minutes.
Glad you got it figured out.

[snoopy]

third time is a charm!!

It turns out is was the fuel pump after all (which I suggested when I brought her in...let me explain my experience the last three weeks.

first time she was in the shop they replaced the rotor, plugs and distributor cap, and serpentine (200 hours on it) total cost $330, labor being $180 ($90 per hour).

Brought her home, EXACT same symptoms, brought her back, they replaced the MAP sensor, total cost $215, labor being $90....brought her home, same EXACT symptoms/problem.

Brought her back in, again...this time they replaced the fuel pump, fuel pick up tube, anti-syphon tube, sensor assay ignition. Brought the boat home, she is running great, again.

I am not going to tell you the total for this job as of yet, I do not want to skew your opinion..but they told me they cut the total price in half...I am a little upset because I feel they replaced and charged me for unnecessary parts and labor.

Is there a mechanic that can give me an accurate estimate for the above fuel pump and stuff I described? I would really appreciate it.

They may have made up for the first 2 screw ups by cutting the price in half, but I would like to challenge them on the labor, since they are new parts, I do not mind paying for them now versus later...any feed back would be great.

Also, to top it off, as they were putting the boat back on the trailer after testing it, they put an 18" gouge in the bow, for which they said they would make like new once I pull her out of the lake for the winter....man, I am so glad I never had boat trouble since I owned her in '04, I can't deal with this crap.

[hellcat66]

i would never deal with those hacks again...there is a big difference between a technician and a parts slapper...glad your back on the water.

[dom w. forte]

The engine based on year not time because you didnt state the hours probably needed the cap , rotor , plugs is questionable dependent on hours, map sensor should of been testable and easy to determine if it was bad or not, and the fact that the engine still didnt work right was probally ok, the fuel system you can test preasure and volume and tell if there is a problem.
Did they lake test for the problem , if so they shouldnt have returned the boat until it performed properly.
If it is a merc, the high preasure pump is about 375.00 plus labor which is about 2.5 hrs, if they had to change the preasure regulator which is extra its about 200.00 also.
We just had a Calabria ski boat in that had been sunk due to our heavy rains and bilge pump couldnt keep up , the water took out the pump, water went into the vacuumn hose and froze up the regulator, also took out the map sensor which didnt trip any codes, because the sensor was in the parametors required but was stuck in a lean condition.

[snoopy]

The engine based on year not time because you didnt state the hours probably needed the cap , rotor , plugs is questionable dependent on hours,

probably 150 hours on the plugs, rotor and cap.

map sensor should of been testable and easy to determine if it was bad or not, and the fact that the engine still didnt work right was probably ok,

that is what I thought...should have been able to test the computer to see if it was failing/or failed

Did they lake test for the problem , if so they shouldnt have returned the boat until it performed properly.

they did test it on the water, ran fine, that was what was so unusual about this case, she would run like a rock star for a few ski passes, then start to buck and hesitate, it seems as thought they did not test it long enough,

If it is a merc, the high preasure pump is about 375.00 plus labor which is about 2.5 hrs, if they had to change the preasure regulator which is extra its about 200.00 also.

they charged me $400 for the fuel pump, fuel pick up tube, anti-syphon tube,& sensor assay ignition...he told e it took them 3 hours labor and they charged me 1/2 hour. I am not sure what you mean by the pressure regulator,

what makes a fuel pump go bad, these guys blamed it on the ethanol in the gas now a days...thanks for your input, looking forward to other responses.[/QUOTE]

[dom w. forte]

The map wont trip a code unless there is a short or open, however we put vaccuumn to it with the key on and engine off and see if it goes through a complete voltage swing without a glitch.
If your merc has the cool fuel system the hi preassure pump is mounted down low on the side of the engine next to your raw water flow and has a cooler on it , on the cooler is a fuel preassure regulator with a vaccuumn hose going upto the intake, that regulator is another 200.00 and doesnt come with the pump.
As per the fuel causeing the problem , definitlly we are experencing a lot of pump and fuel related problems with the current gas, 2013 is schedulled to start seeing sealed fuel tanks in boats and evap systems, this will be a blessing to the industry, no more condesation or evaporation.