I am starting to have trouble finding alcohol free gas and my 97 2150 mercruiser black scorpion doesn't like 10% ethanol on hot days it will die and is hard to restart. just wondering what everyone is doing about this?
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I use this stuff called StarTron from StarBrite that you can get at West Marine...it claims to prevent ethanol-related problems in gas. After the first fill-up, you just have to add an ounce or so per 15 gallons: (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...FcLr7QodjDH27w)
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Is your engine EFI or carb?Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Convert the boat to E85!
Not sure on your location but here is a listing of some non ethanol stations maybe you can find one that is closer.
http://pure-gas.org/
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Originally posted by chpthril View PostIs your engine EFI or carb?
There are multiple threads on this topic. I have found the best way to minimize/avoid is to use the Marine Sta-bil in every tank of gas, run the blower vents and let the engine idle longer after a drive or pulling a rider.
I just got back from a week at Lake Powell with no hot soak issues, using this method.
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...ght=vapor+lock
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...ght=vapor+lockLast edited by TeamAllen; 08-03-2011, 04:42 PM.Mike Allen, Tigé owner since 1997
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What you are describing sounds like vapor-lock. Although its not caused directly by alcohol blended fuel, the alcohol can contribute to the symptoms. Before I spent too much time looking for alcohol free fuel, i I would address the root causes.
Vapor lock is caused by having the fuel boil in the fuel rail. Having winter-blend fuel in summer time temps and low fuel pressure are the 2 leading causes of vapor-lock.
Winter blended fuel has a higher volatility, making it easier to ignite when the ambient air temps are colder. As the season changes and the air warms it, the fuel can boil in the lines, even though everything else is working as designed.
Vapor-lock caused by low fuel pressure will require a fuel gauge. What you need to look for is: Normal static fuel pressure = key/pump on but engine off. Next is to make sure the pressure is normal with the engine running. Any issues here need to be addressed, but before swapping parts, you need to look at one last thing, and this is where you will see the cause of vapor lock. After idling the engine, shut is off and watch the fuel pressure gauge. It should hold steady and not bleed off.
If there is an internal or external leak, the pressure will drop off and the gauge will go down. That dropping fuel pressure is what allows the fuel to boil. Anyone know why we have pressurized engine cooling systems? Its to allow the engine to operate at temps above the normal point of boiling with out boiling. Same principal works with fuel. If we pressurize it, it will not boil when the under-hood temps are high. So if the pressure is bleeding off, the high temps in the engine compartment of a boat will easily get the fuel boiling, thus the vapor-lock and hard staring and poor idle.
If no external fuel leaks are found, then you are looking at an internal leak in the fuel system. Points of interest will be: Fuel pump, injectors and fuel pressure regulator.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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