Need help with Tranny problem

[JB-FOOT]

Hoping one of you has fixed a similar problem...I have a 2001 21V....when I start and run the boat everything is good with the transmisson...by that I mean when I put it into FWD and into REV it goes in immediatley and there is no lag....if I run the boat under normal non-stress (crusing) conditions, all is still good...However, after runnning hard or under stress, IE..surfing or loaded up wakeboarding, the transmission willl not go into FWD immediately, neutral and REV are just fine, but FWD has a several second lag before it will go into gear.

I can get it in right away by going past the normal FWD detent which causes the rpms to be higher than should when gear engagemnet takes place...so that is not a good option..

Any suggestions will be greatly appreicated....
BTW, there is NO SLIPPING of the transmission at all....
Help...
JB-FOOT

[Barefoot]

Your issue is usually caused by low fluid. Add some transmission fluid as your first step... will most likely fix it.

[gwhite94]

X2

[chpthril]

10 yr old, I would just change the trans and V-drive fluid, making sure they are full when done.

[JB-FOOT]

This boat is extremely clean with EXCEPTIONAL maintenence every year....there are less than 500 hours on it....so the 10 year old comment may not really apply....

I change ALL fluids every year....Oil, Tranny and V-Drive...last year the tranny fluid was changed 3 times....on 15 hours of total run time for the year.

Comment about the V-drive......(a v-drive does not go into or out of gear, so that is not part of the problem) it can only be in the transmission....

I actually swithed to synthetic trannny fluid after the problem started thinking it may be the fluid getting to hot....thats why I changed it three times in one week (about 2 hours worth of running time in the week I changed the fluid)

How about the TIGE MD....can you chime in with your expertise?

[chpthril]

This boat is extremely clean with EXCEPTIONAL maintenence every year....there are less than 500 hours on it....so the 10 year old comment may not really apply....

I change ALL fluids every year....Oil, Tranny and V-Drive...last year the tranny fluid was changed 3 times....on 15 hours of total run time for the year.

Comment about the V-drive......(a v-drive does not go into or out of gear, so that is not part of the problem) it can only be in the transmission....

I actually swithed to synthetic trannny fluid after the problem started thinking it may be the fluid getting to hot....thats why I changed it three times in one week (about 2 hours worth of running time in the week I changed the fluid)

How about the TIGE MD....can you chime in with your expertise?

No offence intended with my above post, but your boat is still 10 years old regardless of how clean or well taken care of

Since the V-drive doesn't go in and out of gear, have you tried changing the port NAV light bulb?

Tige MD hasn't posted in like 3 years, good luck.

Your last post shared quite a bit of useful info that would have impacted my inittial reply. Sounds like you got it handled, piece out!

[JB-FOOT]

chpthrl....no biggie on the 10 year old comment....I wasnt offended....just meant to say that it wasnt the typical 10 year old 1000 hour non-maintained boat...LOL
this situation I am experiencing, is a true puzzle....I have had several mechanics puzzled as well....I just hate to have the entire tranny replaced (a v-drive sux for labor) if it doenst need to be or worse yet, doesnt correct the problem....
Your joke about the port nav bulb....I'll have to think that one through to fully understand that......
I have not been on this board since about 2006, so I didnt know the TigeMD no longer hangs out here...

[dom w. forte]

I would first check the trans fluid level when warmed up to normal operating temperature, next unhook the shift cable from the shift lever with engine off, and move the lever back and forth and feel the detents, put the lever in nuetral feeling the detent engaged and see if the cable lines upto the ball without haveing to move the lever, if the lever has to be moved to snp the cable back on you will need to adjust the cable.
If that all looks good then have some body move the shifter slowly, in both dirrections and see if the lever is going all the way into the detents.
Also check the brass pivot on the shifter, on a 10 year old boat it wears down and wont pull the lever all the way.
If thats all good pull the cooling hose off the trans cooler and see if its full of debree and restricking the flow which will cause the trans temp to rise and possible engagement issue.
Other then that it would be overhaul time.

[JB-FOOT]

Dom, thanks so much for the reply....I actually sent an email to your shop today based on a conversation that Tony Fussell and I had....so when you get into work....you will see my email....

We have already checked the linkage issues and took the cables on and off for adjustment....they were fine...but we had not done it when it was acting up....just when we had the boat first put into the water...so that we can re-check...It would be a major bonus to have something as simple as a bad transmission oil cooler be causing the problem...

Just curious of you opinion...whats your feeling on the AMSOIL ATF synthetic? go back to the DEXRON III or stick with my expensive synthetic?
thanks again..

JB

[dom w. forte]

I dont see the trans fluid hurting if it meets the same qualifications, of interest is from all my research all trans fluid is syntetic and has been for years, original dexron wasnt but from dexron II on it was.
Dont forget to check the brass pivot on the shifter, and I mean take it off to examine, they wear at the circular part that goes into the shifter lever and if its warn even a sixteenth of an inch it will act up.

[boatwakes]

JB, we just ran into the same problem on one of our commercial towboats. It turned out to be the cable needed adjustment. It makes sense when it gets hot because of this: The trans forward, neutral, reverse lever is actually connected to a valve body internally which directs fluid flow through the pressure circuits in the transmission. These circuits dictate output direction or neutral by valve position. If, when you shift into forward when hot the fluid viscosity is so high and the valve body may not completely be in position, some fluid pressure and flow will still be diverted through the neutral ciruit. Thus, clutch operating pressure will not achieved immediately or until the lever is kicked a little farther when throttle is applied. Try adjusting the cable end first and do it like this: if you shift forward and the shifter arm on the trans PUSHES AWAY from the cable end, loosen the locknut with a 5/16 wrench and unscrew the cable end about 1.5-2 full turns. If the shifter arm PULLS TOWARD the cable end, screw the end in 1.5-2 full turns. This adjustment may need to be made a little further after intial set up but I guarantee it will solve your problem. Keep in mind your cables wear inside the sheath and can cause this as well as worn shifter assemblies too. Good luck!

[JB-FOOT]

Thanks BOATWAKES, with your information and Dom's we have quite a few things to try BEFORE we just pull the drive assembly and start replacing everything,.,