Hole in dash, and looking for pictures of a transducer?

[Waterski-Rebel]

I just ordered a Humminbird depth finder, and was wondering if someone (hopfully with a 20V) could post some pictures of where their transducer is mounted, to give me an idea of where I should put mine.

Also, I will need to cut a hole in my dash for the gauge. Does anyone have any suggestions? (other then use a hole saw).

[chpthril]

Hole saw is the best way.

[Waterski-Rebel]

Is there anything I should do to protect the (plastic) dash? Do I cover it with tape first or ???

[chpthril]

Is there anything I should do to protect the (plastic) dash? Do I cover it with tape first or ???

Put Blue painter's tape where you want to drill. Mark your hole on the tape. Triple check behind the dash, and drill. Go slow with light pressure till you're through the dash and into the f/g behind (if any). Oh, double check the hole saw dia. before drilling.

A Roto-zip will cut just as good, but it will be free hand and most gauges dont have much of a lip to hide mistakes

[Waterski-Rebel]

Thanks! Now I just need the depth finder to show up, and also need a pic or two of where to put the transducer.

[chpthril]

Thanks! Now I just need the depth finder to show up, and also need a pic or two of where to put the transducer.

Transom? thru-hull? or hockey puck style?

[Waterski-Rebel]

Hockey puck, through hull style - Humminbird 610P

[chpthril]

I'd say glue it to the sb side about 6" up from the keel, below the engine bell-housing.

[dogbert]

Put Blue painter's tape where you want to drill. Mark your hole on the tape. Triple check behind the dash, and drill. Go slow with light pressure till you're through the dash and into the f/g behind (if any). Oh, double check the hole saw dia. before drilling.

A Roto-zip will cut just as good, but it will be free hand and most gauges dont have much of a lip to hide mistakes

The hole saw is the best, but be sure to buy a bimetal one. Also, start it in reverse until you have a decent groove and the finish won't flake off due to the jumping you get when you first start cutting. And, as chpthril said, cover the surface with blue painter's tape or masking tape.

[dogbert]

Here's a picture of mine surface mounted. You can't see them real clear, but it's the gauge all the way over to the right, next to the breakers.

[Waterski-Rebel]

The reverse is a good idea. What happens if my bit is just a wood bit?

Also, when I install my bow speakers, do I follow the same process?

[dogbert]

The reverse is a good idea. What happens if my bit is just a wood bit?

Also, when I install my bow speakers, do I follow the same process?

A bi-metal hole saw will have finer teeth and be less likely to jump and chip. Yes to the bow speaker process.

[Waterski-Rebel]

I will look tonight and see what type my set is. Hopfully they are bi-metal.

[Waterski-Rebel]

Ok, I am home and looked. It didn't say if they are bi-metal or not. They are black, and I bought the set from eBay. My guess is they are basic hole saws. I do remember that they were good for both metal and wood, because I bought them to cut a circle in a metal computer rack. I will see if I can find a bi-metal one to borrow (or buy). I'm only going through the thin plastic that they used for the dash in the SwitchV, so it should be pretty simple. The holes for the speakers will be a little more complicated.

chpthril - I missed your post above "I'd say glue it to the sb side about 6" up from the keel, below the engine bell-housing." For a non-mechanic, what/where is the bell-housing? I understand 6" from the keel, and on the starboard side, just not sure what part of the motor is the bell housing.

[chpthril]

Thats where the trany bolts to the block. That puts the puck about 3' from the transom.