Master Relay Control

[MFalcon]

I have a '00 21V(fastest one in the Galaxy) that is not making the jump to light speed. Okay, the console switches for the stereo,bilge,and blower may or may not turn on. Then, if I do turn them on, they may or may not turn off. I had to leave the blower running for 2 hours while I tried to turn it of by pressing the button 500 times.It reminds me of the very first Nintendo after 5 years of sitting in the basement.
The master relay control that the wiring harness for the console hooks into, does not sound like the relay switches are clicking when the problem is occurring.This may be a symptom or problem (I was absent that week of Physics class). Reseting the breakers does not seem to do anything. I don't even know if reseting the breakers is even doing anything. What gives?

[R&T Babich]

The switch panel on the dash has low current "control" switches that provide input to the Master Relay Panel where the higher current switching is actually done. There are harness connectors behind the 2 dash switch panels that you can make sure are seated tightly. The bilge and blower are on one panel/connector so a loose connector could explain both of those. If the connector is boken into pieces you could connect the wires directly, the connector is only needed to allow removing the switch panel without cutting wires. I put wire wrap tie pads next to ours and tie wraps to keep them from bouncing around.
The breakers are on the high current output side of the relays so they would have no effect. The breakers are not ON-OFF, they are normally ON and reset back to ON if it popped. You could reach under the dash and pull the wire connector off the back of the breaker to temporarily disable a circuit until you find the problem.

[MFalcon]

Thanks R&T. I took it in and it acted just like a bad kid(behaved great in public and acted up the minute I tried to put it in the lake).It wouldn't even start!
I re-charged the battery and everything went great....for a while. So, I have pushed and switched the wiring harnesses to no avail. I really would like to avoid the $400 dollar - labor replacement of the switches, so I may try hardwiring the harness like you mentioned.