Started with the bilge pump

[tigesue]

Bilge pump wouldn't shut off. Had to disconnect batt. Pulled the bilge pump, full of crap, fiberglass etc. Reinstalled, still runs constantly. BUT... while I had it out, I hooked it too a battery and it worked like it's supposed to. There is also a whistle alarm sound, like when you first turn on the ignition, but not quite as loud all the time the bilge pump is connected. Anyone have ANY idea what kind of wiring problem could cause this? This is a "new" boat. 05 22V purchased in 06. Thanks for any help!!
Tigesue

[chpthril]

Make sure that the manual bilge switch is not on. I have not had one of those integrated bilge pumps apart, but as cheap as they are, may just replace and save the hassle of fixing.

Dont know about buzzer, good luck

[zad0030]

Try checking the wiring to the fuses and switch? If theres an alarm is not a bilge pump problem its wiring somewhere right???

[dogbert]

All of the bilge pumps are automatic, so I'd check to see if the "float" mechanism is clear of debris also. If that's not it, perhaps the wires are connected backwards.

[da.bell]

tigesue, it's time to get a new boat. What better reason do you need? j/k

Okay, I agree with the others and do want to say that I also have a switch on the instrument control panel that will turn on and off the pump which is probably an override to tell the unit to start working.

[tigesue]

Pump checked out, outside the boat

Noticed a couple suggestions about replacing the pump. Must have missed the part where I said the pump worked like it's supposed to when I had it out to clean. 3 wires, when one + wire is touched to 12V, pump goes on. When the other + touching it doesn't go on, till I turned the pump over (which cause the float to move to the top of the pump, just like it would if there is water that high) and it would thne go on.

I agree, there is a short/open somewhere that is causing this... guess it has to be a short to a powered wire, because it doesn't shut off. I was just hoping someone had been down this road and could give me some tips where to look.

If that gave you any ideas... I'm still open to suggestions!

[da.bell]

You could follow the power wires back to the console and check for any cracks or cuts in the plastic. The wire will more than likely run up the starboard side of the boat. To access all the wires, the starboard locker will need to be accessed, a flashlight, and possibly someone else near the throttle to help you out. I hope that helps you out a little bit and provides some direction.

Or, you can call your local dealership and have them look at it. I'm not sure about the length of the warranty for electrical, but I am thinking that you are still covered.

Good luck.

p.s. Could also be as simple as your switch on your console is not working properly also.

[chpthril]

Noticed a couple suggestions about replacing the pump. Must have missed the part where I said the pump worked like it's supposed to when I had it out to clean. 3 wires, when one + wire is touched to 12V, pump goes on. When the other + touching it doesn't go on, till I turned the pump over (which cause the float to move to the top of the pump, just like it would if there is water that high) and it would then go on.

I agree, there is a short/open somewhere that is causing this... guess it has to be a short to a powered wire, because it doesn't shut off. I was just hoping someone had been down this road and could give me some tips where to look.

If that gave you any ideas... I'm still open to suggestions!

If you have a DMM (digital multi meter), it is a simple circuit to check.

Pump has 3 wires:
Ground; this may be a brown or black wire that will need to be connected to ground buss/block or engine.

Constant 12v; circuit to pump motor is completed when float rises. Set meter to Ohms, clip on lead to the ground, and the other lead to one of the other 2 wires. Turn pump over to raise float. You should the meter go from "OL" to near 0 resistance and then back to "OL" when pump is returned to upright position. If not, move lead to 3rd wire and repeat test.

Switched 12v; this wire will get voltage when the manual bilge switch is turned on. During test above you will find 1 on the 2 power wires that near 0 resistance with pump in upright normal position.

You should now now what each of the 3 wires on the pump do, so lets now test the boats harness that will go to the pump

With DMM set to VOLTS, clip the ground lead to known, clean ground. touch the wires 1 by 1 and look for one that has 12v. This is the constant 12v that lets the pump run automatically.

Next, turn the bilge switch on, now check the other 2 wires for voltage. Turn switch off to confirm you have now found the Switched 12v

The last wire will be the ground. This circuit should be good because you state that the pump runs all the time but you can confirm this by clipping on meter lead to it, and one lead to the constant 12v.

Now, with the wires confirmed and the pump wired correctly, The pump should operate as designed. Confirm by turning on switch and maybe even fill bilge with water til pump runs. If it still runs all the time, you have a bad pump.

Hope this helps more.

[Graham Morris]

I had same problem and was corrosion on terminal allow power all the time rather than auto switching off needed a new pump

[Michele Sterne]

I had the exact same problem with the bilge pump gettting stuck on. Now the entire electrical panel is not working.

[chpthril]

I had the exact same problem with the bilge pump gettting stuck on. Now the entire electrical panel is not working.

Sounds like a main Breaker has tripped. Unplug bilge and check all breakers and reset any that are tripped. Also check battery charge.