To properly crimp larger than 2AWG, you need a die; I guess I don't do it the "proper" way, and I crimp against both planes, to get a crinkle, in a vice. Crimping 2gauge or smaller you can use you regular old hand tool, and a little oompf to get it to crimp, depending on the terminal material. Battery connections are usually a copper type, so they are relatively easy to crimp by hand. If it is a tinned copper, or "heavy duty" it will be harder and you may have to use the vice to close the tool.
To tin, I have a solder iron that gets real hot. Your little plug in auto type will not get hot enough. I heat the connetion up for a while, and then wick the solder into the lug. I coat everything down to the sheathing. This also helps solidify the homebrew crimping with the vice. A butane type torch works well for this too.......you can drip the solder in and it will wick if the metal is hot enough.
For 2AWG and smaller, look at this picture
see the larger round halfmoons behind the hinge, above the "h" in the watermark.......you can crimp your 2AWG in there. It is sized for 4AWG, but it will indent and crimp the softer 2AWG connectors just fine as well; you will need to crimp about three times to cover the length of the connector.
To tin, I have a solder iron that gets real hot. Your little plug in auto type will not get hot enough. I heat the connetion up for a while, and then wick the solder into the lug. I coat everything down to the sheathing. This also helps solidify the homebrew crimping with the vice. A butane type torch works well for this too.......you can drip the solder in and it will wick if the metal is hot enough.
For 2AWG and smaller, look at this picture
see the larger round halfmoons behind the hinge, above the "h" in the watermark.......you can crimp your 2AWG in there. It is sized for 4AWG, but it will indent and crimp the softer 2AWG connectors just fine as well; you will need to crimp about three times to cover the length of the connector.
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