Installing bluesea ACR on 09 RZ2

[Powerlock25]

any issues with doing so? previous owner had it on a 1-2-combine switch...
im sure the house battery is bad...bout to go into Custom Sounds for a new audio system...
just want to make sure the batteries get hooked up right

do I need to disregard an isolator?

[KoolAid]

The Bluesea ACR will act as your isolator. Me personally, I would swap it to the current setup we have now. Off/On/Combine switch. I would move everything to the dead side of switch except for the leads from battery to switch, and the bilge pump. Then run two wires from the switch to run across the ACR. A positive bus bar would help to clean up the wires from the switch. Then you would have one lead from the ACR on the battery switch for the engine side and one on the house side.
Will make it much easier in the future if you need to pull the batteries out. You will only have two leads basically for each battery.

[chpthril]

A 1/2/BOTH switch was not OEM in 09, so the battery system has had some degree of modification. Tige was still using a diode type isolator. I cant remember if 09 was the first year of the ON/OFF/COMBINE switch or the last year of the simple ON/OFF.

You can run an ACR/VSR with a standard 1/2/BOTH switch, but there is no huge advantage. You still need to be mindful of the switch position when you go from running to anchor and back to running.

With that said, with the introduction of an ACR into a 1/2/BOTH switch, would not have any bearing on how the batteries and boat systems are to be wired. There is only one good way to wire the 1/2/BOTH switch, with or without an ACR.

[Powerlock25]

can you recommend an onboard charger?
how about a positive bus bar?

[chpthril]

Promariner, Guest and NOCO all make good chargers. The best one, is the one best for the task. Along with chargers, I stock some BUS as well.

[Powerlock25]

Thanks Mike,
I might hit you up on that. I still have the prop and custom ballast in the box waiting to be opened. Figured I would crack into that after I get the electrical squared away.

I don’t have the boat handy so I’ll check this weekend...but is this boat (in modified condition) likely to have an isolator that will need to be removed during the install of the ACR?

[chpthril]

but is this boat (in modified condition) likely to have an isolator that will need to be removed during the install of the ACR?

It would have had the diode setup from the factory and absolutely need to be taken out of the loop when going with an ACR. It would be an aluminum finned block with 3 post/3 cables attached to it, if still in play.

[Powerlock25]

I’ll look for this...
Is it typically mounted on the transom rear of the engine near the bus bars? I assume 1 post is alternator, 2 battery #1, 3 battery#2?

[chpthril]

Transom mounted or forward engine bay wall, depending on year an model. Regardless, center post is from alt, outside posts go to each battery B+ post. This just helps identify the diode, none of means much when eliminating it.

[BrentP]

It looks like this. Mounted against the back seat (This picture is looking forward up the boat)

20181208_103236.jpg

[Powerlock25]

thanks for the photo!

hmm, that does not look familiar...I'm thinking they may have removed it

I am going to diagram out the current system....not that it means much but at the moment it appears that the house battery has been bypassed and everything is piped through the starting battery...I really dont like that the accessory is running off the starting side....every time I crank the boat the display drops and I have to reset that speed control and radio

[chpthril]

Are you doing this work yourself, or is the mentioned above shop going to be doing the work for you?

I ask, because I do battery banks, etc, right here in the shop, as well as supply and assist others doing DIY. I have custom schematics that I supply with the switch conversion kits.

[Powerlock25]

Mike,
If I hadnt snagged the blue sea ACR and switch a couple months ago I would love to buy from you....I was planning on doing it myself but since it is going in for a new sound system I figured I might let them take care of it. I just want to be able to understand it enough to QC the wiring. They are an excellent sound shop for automobiles...but they do boats occasionally. I just don't know how often they do isolated dual battery (house/starting) systems...plus I am bringing the boat in from over 3 hours away and I don't want to have to bring it back. I really don't want to deal with the guy that is local to our lake.

I do need to pick up a charger for this new system, if you can help me select the best for my needs that would be awesome

[chpthril]

Need to know what size and number of batteries.