Installed a Yandina Combiner 100 - having voltage issues.

[MexTex]

I have a 2009 22 Ve. The boat is running excellent right now, but occasionally I am getting a "Check Engine" display on my monitor. I had the codes checked by a local dealer and below are the results that were found. I replaced the crank position sensor which cleared up any noticeable engine issues, but I am still getting a "Check Engine" display. I think my issue may be electrical. I rewired the stereo amplifiers with higher gauge cables and while I was at it I installed a Yandina battery combiner 100 and removed the Perko style switch. I really don't think that the Yandina is the problem, I believe I may have a ground issue. There are two large awg power and ground cables coming from the engine side that I connected directly to the starting battery and all other power and grounds are connected to the deep cycle. The Yandina just combines the two batteries when voltage coming from the alternator/charger feeding into the batteries, the batteries are isolated when incoming power is not present. I tested both batteries disconnected and outside of the boat and the voltage looks good. I did find a loose cable lying around in the battery compartment that I believe was just a jumper coming off of the Perko switch, but I could be wrong. Are there two chassis grounds? One of the things the tech told me is that I may need a new ECM - thats expensive so if I can avoid that it would be best. Any help or advice would be very appreciated.

Read out results:

SPN723 count 1 cam/rpm sensor voltage below normal or shorted, crank position sensor - REPLACED, data erratic intermittent or incorrect, data moderately over range

[chpthril]

What style switch did you remove? Do you have a diagram of how it is now with the combiner ND no switch?

[MexTex]

Screen shot 2018-10-26 at 8.15.39 AM.jpg

[MexTex]

Above is the C100 Yandina combiner installation instructions. Minus the switch this is how I installed the combiner. The leads going to the switch are going directly to the battery terminals. I did just notice something though...and I feel stupid for not seeing this before. I failed to install the heavy gauge jumper connecting the negatives of each battery. I am assuming thats my issue.

[chpthril]

That would certainly cause an issue but there is more to consider. What style of switch did you remove? I also forgot to ask if you removed the OEM isolator.

[chpthril]

I really don't think that the Yandina is the problem,

Unless you confirmed the now removed switch was defective, IF you resolved your original issue, you fixed it purely on accident. A device like the yandina, simply makes an electrical path for the alternator supply, that the switch does mechanically.

Now, leaving off the ground bridge between the two bank will certainly create new issues. Leaving the original diode (which I think an 09 would have) combiner in place, can also.

but I am still getting a "Check Engine" display.

This usually indicates another code is being set. Its rare for the ECM to display the CEL and not store a code.

IIRC, your 09 used a Blue Sea (not a Perko) brand Dual Circuit Plus OFF/ON/COMBINE style switch. IMO, id put the switch back in, in conjunction with the yandina ACR. There are advantages to having that dual bank switch in there, that outweigh leaving it out.

[MexTex]

You are correct it is a Blue Sea Switch. This is the only picture I have of the original switch..I threw it away when I installed the Yandina. I've heard you mention the diode, but I don't remember seeing any diode when I rewired the batteries. I am the second owner of this boat and the previous owner looked to have changed some things around with the stereo system. Wire gauges were light for the wattage used, some of the speakers were not working, etc. The diode may have been removed when he "downgraded" the system - going from Wetsounds amps to Dual brand. I will purchase another Blue Sea Switch and install it in combination with the Yandina. I know if I take it to Tige for repair, that will be the first thing they are going to give me hell about. IMG_3082.jpg

[MexTex]

Speaking of the ECM storing codes. Is there a way to clear the code so I can see if my repairs fixed the issues?

[chpthril]

Thats the simple ON/OFF switch, so im 99% sure it originally had a diode type isolator. They are usually bolted to the transom or the forward wall of the engine bay and have 3 posts, 3 cables and cooling fins.

This diode would not have anything directly to do with the stereo, BUT, could have been removed. However, it would be a crazy configuration to remove it and NOT do something like an ACR/DCP switch or basic 1/2/BOTH switch back in its place. Without the diode or something to replace it, the house and main cranking banks would never get a charge from the alternator.

Yes, Tige did use less then ideal amp cable gauge from the factory, but that in of itself, should not effect, or cause, the ECM to wig out. It can effect the audio, especially the large Syn-6. However, going down in amps, makes small gauge wires less of an issue. Non operating speakers would need further diagnosis.

Before purchasing another switch, PM me about what you need and how to wire it. Im more then happy to get you on the right track. This is a good move to remove the ON/OFF switch and Diode block, but only if you get the right switch and proper wiring diagram.

[MexTex]

I located the diode which was at the transom of the boat behind the engine. The diode has three terminal posts. The center terminal has a cable going around to the starboard side and the outside terminals, I have wired to the starting battery. I would think this would work, because if the alternator is currently setup to charge one battery as it is currently wired...The Yandina combiner would sense the alternator voltage tripping the relay and charge the other battery.

[MexTex]

Chpthril, I was reading one of your earlier posts and you made it sound like the battery diode thingy is doing exactly what the Yandina is doing. So it looks like I should remove the Yandina and separate the outer leads of the diode (one to each battery). The switch is only used in the event the starting battery fails. I can save the Yandina for another boat.

[chpthril]

Yes, the diode and an ACR do a similar task, just in a different way and with quite a different wiring scheme.

You really do want to remove the old diode, its just going to create issues.