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    TAPS Help

    I been reading everything I can about the previous issues posted on the site and I don't really know were I land with mine. I know my TAPS gauge doesn't work, the TAPS plate works and moves with the switch. Looking under the dash today I found a weird issue, from what I can tell and have been reading the purple wire is 12v+. It looks like the purple wire was cut from the last gauge (see attached pics) and then wired to a red 22guage wire which comes out from a black sheath wire, I believe is part of the TAPS. There is a black box on the wall which then has a yellow wire running to the back of the TAPS gauge. I also found a larger red wire (12gauge) with a label TAPS and a male connector.

    Guess I am asking if someone might have a wire diagram of how things should be connected?
    Whats the extra gauge do?
    Where should I look from here to try and figure this out?

    On a side note the 12v plug next to the ignition doesn't work, Moving the TAPS causes my radio to stop. The other 2 12v plugs cause the stereo to drop out also. But I believe that's due to a low battery issue.

    Thanks
    LuckyBlack_box.jpgCut_spare_gauge.jpgExtra_gauge.jpgPurple_Red.jpg
    Last edited by Techna22v; 05-30-2017, 05:14 AM.

    #2
    If your taps plate is moving and the gauge doesn't work it is most likely the sender inside of the actuator.

    Comment


      #3
      Id start by hooking the 12+ back to the gauge see if it starts working again. Yes the black box is for the TAPs control. There should have been 1 or 2 small green wires on the back of the TAPs gauge that I'm not seeing on your pictures. They typically have a grey sheath around them if I remember correctly. These wires lead back to the sender in the actuator. You can track them down by looking under the gunnel by the throttle handle leading back to the actuators.

      The extra gauge is your depth gauge.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by freeheel4life View Post
        If your taps plate is moving and the gauge doesn't work it is most likely the sender inside of the actuator.
        Mine was the same issue and on my model I actually had to replace the actuator to fix the sender. Not a hard fix, but cost about 140 to order the part.

        Comment


          #5
          If you take your old actuator apart you will see why sender failed. Sender is internal to actuator on Bennett and if you grab a hard reverse at any point it will Pierce the copper windings for sender and it's toast. Will bet a new Bennett will fix his problem like it fixed yours. It's when they aren't working or only working in one direction that it's other issues...just my experience

          Comment


            #6
            So just to clarify,
            1) I should still look for the green wires and look for the OHMS reading, to verify bad actuator sensor?
            2) I should re-splice the purple back into the last gauge but leave everything connected as is?

            Also it just dawned on me that everyone keeps referencing Bennett, but its a Lenco actuator. Gonna head to the storage tomorrow to get a model number. Does this change anything (see attached pic)lenco_actuator.jpg
            Last edited by Techna22v; 05-31-2017, 05:01 AM.

            Comment


              #7
              Lucky,
              Looked closer at your pics and Ruger is correct. Your gauge isn't getting input. Blue is to light gauge and black is ground. Just assumed since plate moves that sender failed, the usual problem. Ruger pointed you the right way

              Comment


                #8
                I think you're right about the Lenco/Bennet difference. My 22v had the electric Lenco and looked like yours, and I don't remember the two green wires that are being referenced. Freeheel works on these though, I just play with them, just offering what I remember from mine.

                If I'm seeing your picture correctly (and reversing it in my head correctly) the gauge that is circled with the cut purple (12+) is your dummy blank gauge. It was pre-wired with purple (12+), dark blue (lighting) and black(ground). I thought about adding a clock at there at one point. Depth gauge should be in your speedo (or tach? can't remember).

                The gauge next to it is your TAPS. You have the three wires I just mentioned, plus a yellow that is the sender wire, that should be going to the control box if I remember correctly. What I don't know about is that light blue wire -- I don't remember that, and my reference picture in the thread I used didn't have that. Can you confirm the yellow goes to your control box, and find out where that light blue goes? Is it the light blue at the control box as well?


                These the threads I used to get mine working correctly, mine was ultimately a problem at the handle switch:

                http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...s-gauge-wiring

                http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...D-TAPS-CONTROL

                Comment


                  #9
                  Lenco will be a touch different than Bennet as hcooperrn is saying above.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks for the everyone, your a big help.
                    I spent another hour going through the boat and checking everything I can to make sure I don't miss anything. I went over the boat two times to make sure I did miss anything, with pics of everything I found

                    The light blue wire is dash light wire going to a remote for the stereo.

                    Found 3 wires (22guage red/black/white attached to white/green/Lt blue) coming from the throttle going to the black control box.
                    Taps wire.jpg
                    The only wire going to the actuator is a 2-conductor with a white/black (18guage), it was connected to the control box. Since the actuator moves I'm pretty sure that it is working, and its coming down to the dash gauge.
                    TIGE Actuator.jpg
                    There is a black wire from the control box connected to a 10 gauge (what looks to be battery) wire and this black wire is run with the red wire that's labeled TAPS. The smaller red wire from the control box is attached to the 12vDC outlet, and I have a feeling this should be attached the what I think is the battery wire.
                    TIGE red wire2.jpgTAPS Red wire.jpg

                    I called Lenco and they were no help, in the pic of the actuator you can see a model number? stamped into it, but it does not match anything they have.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      So I spent some time and really went through the boat to make sure I did not miss anything

                      The only wire going to the Lenco actuator is a white/black 18 gauge going all the way back to the black box. I called Lenco and they couldn't reference the actuator
                      TIGE Actuator.jpg

                      There was a set of wires 3 wire coming from the throttle (red/black/white going to white/blue/green) going to the black box
                      Taps wire.jpg

                      Found a red/black 18gauge wire labeled TAPS (I assume this is battery wire) but the red was open, the black wire went back to the black box. I found a red wire from the black box going to the 12vDC socket on the dash
                      TAPS Red wire.jpgTIGE red wire.jpg

                      That was all the wires connected to the black box other then the yellow that goes to the guage.

                      The light blue wire is a dash light wire going to the stereo remote

                      Thanks
                      Lucky

                      Comment


                        #12
                        That all sounds familiar. The three wires from the throttle that are spliced means the switch has probably been replaced at some point, I did the same. Also sounds like the box is working because the plate is moving.

                        I don't think the gauges fail often, but that's what I would look at next - is the sender doing its job, and if so, and gauge is getting power, then gauge may actually be bad?

                        I didn't have to test mine, so I don't want to steer you wrong there, not sure if it sends a varying voltage or if it changes the resistance, hopefully someone can chime in on how to test the sender for proper signal.


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Ok, I need to clarify here. In your first set of pictures:
                          1. You have the depth gauge circled correct?
                          2. (If yes) The light blue wire, is it connected to the same lug on the TAPS gauge as the yellow wire?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by dj2 View Post
                            Ok, I need to clarify here. In your first set of pictures:
                            1. You have the depth gauge circled correct?
                            2. (If yes) The light blue wire, is it connected to the same lug on the TAPS gauge as the yellow wire?
                            The gauge looks to be a dummy gauge, I can not see anything in the gauge. The depth gauge is part of the main gauge.
                            Post #10 is the most complete post only looking at the wires coming and going from the black control box, actuator, and throttle switch. Everything that I can see that makes the TAPS work.

                            The light blue wire is connected to the dash lights, and is going down to the stereo remote.
                            Last edited by Techna22v; 06-03-2017, 05:25 PM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Where does the thin yellow wire go that is coming off the TAPS gauge?

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