What Battery Do I Need?

[Bryan]

What should I get to replace this? Tech told me last spring that my cranking battery was getting week, but I always run my switch on combine, which adds 2 more batteries, so I didn't realize this one was really dead until yesterday. My buddy accidentally switched to it to start the boat, and she would hardly click.. I'm assuming the G10 sticker means it from 2010??? Anyways, no stereo equip is on this, but apparently lots of other stuff is.. If this is bad could it be causing my static and taps whining sound I get through the speakers? What about a random warning beep I can't narrow down? Is there a sensor that would trip?

[chpthril]

Battery wise, what you need is a group-24 marine cranking.

As to the wine, static, pop in the audio.......need more info;
Type of switch
where is the audio's main cables terminating
where is the head unit and any other audio terminated

Those 2 red 12ga cables with the yellow insulated terminals, what are they for? Nothing but the auto bilge and battery charger should be battery direct.

[Bryan]

Switch... I always just assumed it was 1/2/both/off Perko, but now that I'm looking a google pics of perkos, it doesn't have the triangle shaped switch. It's just a red box with a straight handle and the 4 positions.. The amps all terminate at the twin stereo batteries, I'm thinking the head unit may be on this crank batt.. That fused lead and the top lead on the ground post are charger, I have no idea where the others go. I'm pretty sure all the boats electrical runs on this crank batt because I think the stereo batteries and switch were added after the fact. Everything worked fine last spring when I got it, so I didn't bother to trace wires and check them out..

[chpthril]

The amps all terminate at the twin stereo batteries, I'm thinking the head unit may be on this crank batt.

Need to confirm and relocate to switch

pretty sure all the boats electrical runs on this crank batt

If this indeed the case, then your switch is really doing nothing.

[Bryan]

Ok so it sounds like I've got quite the project comin on this winter... Any idea if this battery being dead would cause an alarm? Have you ever heard of that?

[Bryan]

Ok.. dug a little deeper this afternoon while pulling the battery out to get a new one tomorrow. Made two discoveries.

First, the 2 red 12ga cables run into a couple of relays that are zip tied together inside a red plastic cover, any idea what they are for just by looking? The wires then disappear into a wire loom that looks to have a bunch of cut wires hanging out the end of it.. Yay. Also, on the relays, the two posts opposite the battery seem to be rusty looking, think they're still alright?

Second, found a fuse just laying in the bottom of the compartment. Wire on one end is frayed, the other disappears into said wire loom. Wire looks to be brown/red striped?? Any thoughts on its purpose.. I'll add pics of all this stuff, for viewing pleasure of course

[chpthril]

Those are circuit breakers and likely supply help BUS, but you need to find out for sure. im 99% sure they need to be wired to the switch.

That fuse holder looks like it could be for the auto bilge. It should be wired to the battery if thats what it is.

[Bryan]

I was thinking probably auto bilge.. I'll throw an eye on the end of it and hook it back up.. For battery, based on all my local options; Walmart, autozone, oreillys, and that's about it... I found this one at battery outfitters 25 min away. It seems to be the closest I can get to the 875 CCA that this fish hunter has. All the other big box store options for size 24 marine cranking were in the 600 CCA range...

Whatcha think:
https://batteryoutfitters.com/products/single/24M800

[dj2]

I would spend a little more and look for an AGM battery, I have had good luck with the autozone platinum AGM batteries. They take the physical abuse of life in a boat, have lasted for years without a maintenance charger and have put up with my stereo demands... I have 2 RF 450.4's running the in-boats, 2 Rev10's and a Rev410, and a RF 1500bd running a 10w7. Last weekend my alternator went out and I didn't notice until the sub amp shut off at 11.9 volts (I was surfing and my brother was driving). I switched over to the starting battery and it powered us back to the marina about 20 minutes away after pumping out all the ballast.

[Bryan]

Is AGM the same as deep cycle? I've already got two of those powering the stereo system. This one is supposed to be only cranking, but it appears my switch may not be hooked up right either, so who really knows what I've got...

Edit: just looked at autozone platinum size 24 AGM... The one I've linked has more CCA and more reserve capacity at less than half the price.. Only advantage for autozone that I saw was that my link said 12 month free replacement, and autozone said 3 yr warranty

[chpthril]

Bryan,

Deep cycle is a term usually associated with a traditional wet cell lead acid. AGM stands for absorbed glass mat. They are different make up than a wet cell. They have their advantages, but also their disadvantages. For a main cranking battery, I would put my focus on cranking amp v's cost.

[Bryan]

Im readin ya loud and clear... Thanks a bunch