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Taps switch shorting out - 2010 RZ2

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    Taps switch shorting out - 2010 RZ2

    My boat was running great when I put it in this season, I did install a new touch screen as the old one refused to recognize someone touching it any longer. My taps toggle switch on the throttle was working until I tried to set the TAPS with a preset profile, it then got stuck. The toggle switch on the throttle does nothing, doesn't even make a noise likes it's trying to move the TAPS. I replaced the TAPS motor and actuator about a year ago so I really don't think they are the problem. The odd thing is if I use the toggle switch nothing happens and the fuses seem to remain in tack but when I switch the taps by the preset profiles this is when the fuses seem to blow (I'm about 85% sure on this)? I checked all the inline fuses I could find and they all checked out. I didn't see anything obvious in the stern by the motor, fluids look good. Any thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated as my bow is way up in the air!

    #2
    On the older throttle set ups (mine is an '02) the small wires to the toggle run through a slot that is cut into the splined shaft that the throttle arm spins to move the cable to the engine. What happens is over time the wires get chaffed. So if one is chaffed through it is probably now grounded causing the toggle to not work. However when you activate it from your profiles it grounds out too. Fuses are either blown or not. This may not help you on your newer boat but I went through this last spring and ended up moving a toggle right next to my perfect pass to avoid future issues as well as not have to repair/solder really thin wires. My throttle disassembly was very easy. Good luck.

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      #3
      Try running on both batteries to see if all problems resolve. My touch screen, stereo, and taps would be unresponsive if I had a low house battery.

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        #4
        Thanks for the suggestions, below is what Tige told me to try. I had no clicking and the fuse didn't blow so I'm ordering a new relay, I'll post the results.

        Right now I am assuming it blows the two fuse in the big medallion box under the dash. If not please let me know because it’s a whole other issue.
        Start off with unplugging the 4 pin connector for the bennett pump at the taps relay. Replace the fuses and see if they blow while moving the taps switch and the profile. Also have them listen for the taps relays making connection. This will do the same in profiles as well.
        If they blow from that test they have the wires grounded out somewhere under the dash between the medallion box and the taps relay.
        If it doesn’t blow and they are hearing clicking on both up and down on the taps relay the pump is bad. See below before replacing pump.
        Now the 4 wire connector going back to the pump could be shorted out. Next step would be to unplug the 4 pin from the pump and put the four pin back on the taps relay and test again.
        If they don’t hear clicking in both directions the taps relay is the culprit.

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          #5
          Update - I replaced the relay switch and that solved the problem. I will note that after replacing the relay switch it initially didn't work. At some point in all my attempts to get the TAPS to work I had switched off the auxiliary panel. On this particular boat the RZ2 (2010) the taps and the horn are powered by the auxiliary panel. Once the panel was switched back on all was good.

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