Strange Battery troubles 2012 rz-2

[JTs-rz2]

lets try again

From the negative buss larger one is on the crank negative. The smaller one is on the house negative.

X2 on plastic ties and labels next time the batteries come out. I will check the fuse tonight.

[chpthril]

Yeah, that large cable needs to go between the batteries and not from the main cranking to the BUS.

[JTs-rz2]

Yeah, that large cable needs to go between the batteries and not from the main cranking to the BUS.

I wonder who put the short cable to the buss? Have to take the cover off to get it on. I will try that. I am getting equal readings on my meter as is.

The fuse was blown also. Is this inline fuse suppose to be on positive or negative? It is zip tied to a positive lead on my boat but I saw a blue sea diagram putting it on the negative.

Thx

[JTs-rz2]

I wonder who put the short cable to the buss? Have to take the cover off to get it on. I will try that. I am getting equal readings on my meter as is.

The fuse was blown also. Is this inline fuse suppose to be on positive or negative? It is zip tied to a positive lead on my boat but I saw a blue sea diagram putting it on the negative.

Thx

3 amp fuse to positive. Read diagram wrong.

[chpthril]

The ACR coil control ground is supposed to be fused in the event that the coil shorts. Fuse pops to prevent the ground lead from burning up.

The positive side of the ACR coil control is internal, so the control ground is the only external wire, since the only other cables to the ACR are B+.

That fuse being blown would prevent the ACR from closing. This keeps alternator feed from supplying the house battery. Its loads would soon draw it down with no input from the alternator while the engine is running.

[JTs-rz2]

More digging now that everything was connected correctly to the best of my knowledge.... my house battery was not holding a charge very long and would not charge on my charger. So I replaced the battery. The new battery worked great for about 8 hours. After checking volts, my acr is not charging my house battery. If I moved the switch to combined then I could get a reading indicating the house battery was charging.

Found the battcom manual and it states it will not charge the house battery until the crank battery is fully charged.

Being that my crank battery is 4 years old is my next point of logic to replace the crank battery as well? When charged my Crank battery will turn the engine and work. But maybe it is not good enough to trip the acr?

[chpthril]

Can you link to that manual?

[JTs-rz2]

Can you link to that manual?

http://www.charlesindustries.com/mar...al/manuals.htm

Then click on battcom

[chpthril]

Read through 3 pieces of lit and not a one had any technical specs. What is needed, is the operating voltage threshold. At what voltage does the ACR combine and then at what voltage does the ACR open and isolate. Without that, you cannot accurately diagnose its operation. I would contact Charles and ask for this info. Until then, the only other thing that can be done, is to confirm that the ACR control ground wire is solid. Use a volt meter to confirm this. Thats the one small lead that should go to one of the battery ground posts.

[Ochrod]

I had battery issues on 2011 RZ2. Guys on here were a huge help. Mine ended up being the battery selector switch cracked on backside so wasnt charging crank battery. Thats when i found house battery wasnt connected right as well.

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

[JTs-rz2]

After tracing the spagetti mess of wires the leads from the acr were on the wrong battery. At least 8 of 10 checks.... Putting the acr leads on the right battery should hopefully solve my problem. 🤔💡

[chpthril]

If that ACR is unidirectional, then that would stand to reason, its not working. One post would be designated for the main bank and expect to see alternator charge before closing and passing that voltage on the house bank. Their lack of technical info makes that hard to determine.

[JTs-rz2]

Still not resolved.... I can only get my house battery to charge when I move the switch to "combine batteries" then I get alternator charge to both batteries.

I was going to do more digging this week. I can only test on the water. So I have been changing a connection and running on switch on 1. Then test on the water with a volt meter.

Based on my research I am speculating the "battcom" battery isolator is not compatible with the blue sea switch that is on the boat. That is why it only works when the switch is set to combine.

Last trip. I fully charged my house. When starting and anchored I leave the switch at 1. When I am going to surf or wakeboard I move the switch to combined to charge both batteries.

It is not suppose to work this way but I am to stubborn to pay the dealership. And they could not figure it out.

[chpthril]

Its either not wired correctly or its a faulty ACR. These devices are somewhat simple despite being voltage controlled. If you have a basic battery charger, you can test this out of the water at home. All you need is the charger to simulate the alternator charger on the main cranking side. A volt meter is all thats needed to diagnose.

[JTs-rz2]

Its either not wired correctly or its a faulty ACR. These devices are somewhat simple despite being voltage controlled. If you have a basic battery charger, you can test this out of the water at home. All you need is the charger to simulate the alternator charger on the main cranking side. A volt meter is all thats needed to diagnose.

Good idea. I'll try that. It has been tough getting the voltmeter in place while bobbing on the water.