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I'm having a hard time understanding your question. My boat also has a three position switch. Battery, ignition, and crank. As such there is no acc wiring, if you want to call it that. Unless you are wanting to rewire the boat to run an acc circuit? Every factory accessory is battery hot all the time without the need of the ignition switch. What are you trying to do?
I guess I never really thought about not having an acc circuit. My boat has always been wired with an acc circuit. This boat is not but, it also won't run the stereo without the key being in the on position. I suppose that is my main goal, run the stereo with the key in the acc pos instead of the on position. I believe the factory switch has been replaced at some point so I decided to replace it with a 4pos figuring I would at worst have to run at least one wire.
Am I barking up a tree that doesn't need to exist? Wouldn't running the key in the on position for extended periods without the engine running burn out the ignition?
Sorry for the stupid questions. Admittedly, electricity is not my field. Pun intended.
I would have guessed your wiring was set up the same as mine. I guess not. I just push the radio button on the dash to send power to the radio. No key switch needed. As long as the main battery switch is on I don't need they ignition switch at all.
all you need to do is find the radio power wire that gets power from "ignition on" and move it over to your new acc terminal.
Next question: do all your dash buttons require the key to be on to function? Bilge pump, blower, ect? If so I'm guessing the main power wire for the infamous relay box is wired through the key switch. I'd remove that wire and run it directly to the relay box.
Leaving the key in the on position without the engine running will not hurt anything. Just runs the batter down a bit sooner because more things are needlessly on.
Put the stereo's red turn-on on a rocker, rather than the ACC of the key. I hate the ACC position of the key. When running blue tooth, USB or SAT, everything has to reset when going from RUN to ACC and back. Putting the head-unit on its one rocker prevents this. Stereo is on until you turn off the rocker.
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No mod necessary. However, in case someone is looking for a solution to this problem, how to install an acc circuit, how might one go about that? What new wiring would that require?
New wiring should not be needed. Any ACC load thats not related making the boat go, as in ignition, should be a separate wire with its own terminal. So going from a 3 way to a 4 way switch should be a simple as placing only the IGN wire on the RUN terminal. The other ACC loads would go to the ACC terminal on the switch.
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Have you ever had an issue with the stereo drawing too much power during cranking on a 1 battery system? This might be where an ACC on the key switch would be helpful because the ACC circuit on a key switch goes dead while cranking. Basically the stereo/amps would shut off to allow full voltage to the starter. I guess most people have a dual battery system with ACR, so this issue wouldn't apply
No, and here is why. Any head-unit made in at least the last 20 years, only needs switched ignition from the key switch as a wake up call. Actual head unit current is drawn through the yellow B+/MEM, which should not be passing through the ignition switch.
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