ok so looking at the diagram and what I see in my boat, my switch has 4 posts on the back. is only 3 of those posts going to be used? I have the starter wire going into #2a post on the switch and the start battery on the #2b post. the house battery then goes on #1b post and #1a post shows to the house loads....well where is the line going to the house loads? will i not have anything on that post? I'm kind of lost, maybe this is so easy i just don't get it! I will be wiring in an amp on this so would that go to the #1a post on the switch? Where is the main power wire for the house loads such as the CD player and all of the other electronics? BTW this is going in a 1998 time pre2050wt...
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You hook 1B to the power (battery+)
Connect 1A to the wire that used to be connected to your power (battery+)... Im guessing this is the wire going to your fuse panel
Just think of 1A and 1B as a Light Switch. You want to put it in between the power and loads... Make sense? -
i guess what isn't making sense to me is the wire that runs to the fuse panel....i don't know where that is....on my current one battery setup the 2ga starter wire is the only thing hooked up to the battery, nothing else.Comment
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On our year boats if your talking the breakers on the dash it pulls off of the ignition wire. I added a new House fuse panel and then rewired the items I wanted to get off of the starting battery when I put in my Battery kit. Kind of a pain but it sets it up the way I wanted it.
new wiring.pdfComment
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ok so what your saying is pretty much I'm going to have to rewire everything i want on the house battery? is there an easier way? I just want everything to run off the house battery and have the separate starting battery.Comment
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Yes, all 4 posts will be usedok so looking at the diagram and what I see in my boat, my switch has 4 posts on the back. is only 3 of those posts going to be used?
That would every other cable on the B+ post of the original battery EXCEPT the main starter cable and auto bilge. On your model, you likely dont have many "house" loads as part of the factory helm BUS, which is terminated to the starter's main post..well where is the line going to the house loads?
If it were i, me leave that as is. I would decide out of what is originally powered by the helm BUS, now connected to the main cranking battery, what I would want to have on while at anchor? And relocate those to the house side of the switch.
Anchor light?
Ballast?
stereo?
Disco lights?
Etc?
What I would avoid, is having the ignition key supplied vie the house battery, as it could likely be run low while at anchor.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And MoreComment
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IMG_2746.jpg so how would i just move those to my house battery? It it just one wire coming off the ignition switch that I would have to tie in to the Circuit switch?Comment
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If you look at the blower breaker you will find a wire chain that leads to all the other breakers. You can unhook that first wire for the blower breaker and hook it to your house battery. I left that stuff on my starting battery when I did mine. Wanted to ensure if I killed the house battery floating with radio on that my blower and bilge worked all the time. Just depends on what all you want on the house batt and what you want on the starting batt.Comment
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gotcha! now its starting to make sense! so pretty much all i need to do is get a buss bar and run power to whatever switch i want to run from the house battery? ill just keep my blower and bilge on the starting battery as well, it makes sense. thanks!Comment
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I am starting this project too and have some questions. Inhave 05 22V 340
1. What gauge cable to use for the ACR? The motor cables are 2/0 gauge, house and Stereo are 4gauge. My initial thought is 4 will be good.
2. The instructions show connecting ACR directly to battery but I have seen pictures on this forum where it connected to them blue sea switch. I know this essentially the same but which is better?
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Wiring all depends on length and amps. But I used 4 for the ACR.
I personally would connect it to the switch so when it's off you are assured the batteries are disconnected. This is important when you are hooking up a battery charger to the individual batteries on land or an onboard charger.Comment
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My batteries, switch and ACR are transom port side. The cables would all be ~2' long.
I would be connecting battery charger when home. On board charger next but maybe next year. Thanks for heads up about charger. Will use less cable too.
What about 16 awg starter isolation wire? Is there already one in the back of the boat or do I need to run a new one? I would suspect there isn't.
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4 for the ACR. I'd run at least 0ga or 1/0 for batt cables to switch.
16 is ok for the starter isolator because it really doesn't pull much load more of a signal wire. I doubt there is a wire there already. But you can go to the starter solenoid ignition wire vs running all the way to the ignition itself assuming your batteries are in the back. I'm not exactly sure of the placement of the wires and batts in your model. Chpthril and others know better than I would.Comment
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I like to mount the ACR as close to the switch as a can, and terminate the ACR to the switch. This keeps the cables short, eliminating any needs for extra circuit protection. if you are going to have a dual bank charger in the mix, you absolutely want to have the ACR terminate to the switch, but make sure its on the boat side of the switch, not the battery side of the switch.
I use 4ga for the ACR to switch. Its what I stock in bulk and will more handle the load, which is only the alternator current. 1/0 for the battery cables.
The SI circuit is not really needed.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And MoreComment
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