2001 2100v Battery Dead Overnight

[mgh151]

I just got a 2001 2100v and got it in the water. it will stay in the water all season. when i closed up the boat Saturday night the radio was off and all switches on the dash were off. There was a back-lit switch for the floor lights which was illuminated. So I I switched the battery switch to 1 thinking that may drain them. Came back in the morning and the boat wouldn't start. I also noticed that the amps were powered on even with the headunit off. Because the boat is in the water I need the bilge pump powered just in case, so I can't just switch the batteries to off.

so I have 3 questions for you guys:

How do I cut off the backlite dash button?
Is there a remote out on the clarion head unit to have the amps go on and off with the headunit?
Is there any other systems that stay on besides the bilge pump with everything off?

[laserfish]

My bilge pump is wired directly to the battery as well as the switch so switching the battery to off does not affect it. Sounds like the switch is wired incorrectly. Also, the amps are most likely wired incorrectly. Chpthril will be to the rescue shortly and solve all your problems. A wealth of knowledge on this forum.

[chpthril]

What style of switch do u have? It is a dual battery setup right?

[mgh151]

IMG_20140604_124330283_HDR.jpgIt is a dual battery set up. Here are some pics.IMG_20140517_133132837.jpg

[mgh151]

My bilge pump is wired directly to the battery as well as the switch so switching the battery to off does not affect it. Sounds like the switch is wired incorrectly. Also, the amps are most likely wired incorrectly. Chpthril will be to the rescue shortly and solve all your problems. A wealth of knowledge on this forum.

Did you do that or did it come from the factory like that?

[mgh151]

Reading through the forums, I found that the blue and white wire is the remote input for the amps on the XMD1 headunit.

The Bilge shuts off when the dual battery switch is off.

[laserfish]

As far as I know I did not change it. However, when I installed the second battery, I could have so I would always have it in an emergency, no matter the switch position. Been too long.

[chpthril]

Ok.

The Auto bilge should be connected so it draws off one of the batteries directly. Is your bilge pump a 3 wire pump or a 2 wire pump with an external float? This will impact how it should be wired. Unless the pump is actually on, it should not be a draw on the system.

Battery condition is the next thing to check. You need to make sure both batteries are able to reach a reasonable state of charge and hold it. After thats determined, then a parasitic draw can be checked for.

Switch wiring: All and i mean ALL B+ cables should be connected to the "C" post of the switch, except for the above mentioned auto bilge. No loads should be connected directly to the batteries.

[chpthril]

Reading through the forums, I found that the blue and white wire is the remote input for the amps on the XMD1 headunit.

The Bilge shuts off when the dual battery switch is off.

Amps staying when the head-unit is off, needs to be looked into and is not a problem with how the battery switch is wired. May be time to break out the volt meter.

[mgh151]

The amps were wired wrong. I fixed that problem.

The back-lit switch I need to get under and see why it stays back-lit with no key in the ignition.

The bilge is an automatic, 3 wire, with the float switch integrated in it. I'm planing on getting a new one because for some reason it is located under the oil pan, and impossible to work on. I'll wire the auto wire to the battery directly, as suggested, and tie the old bilge switch wires to the new one.

Thanks for the help.

[laserfish]

Sounds like you are getting the gremlins all tracked down. Yes, the bilge pump is almost impossible to get to.