Speedset will not adjust

[IDBoating]

Did Tige go to a new system for the R20's this year? If not, they are still consuming this piece as it is part of the R20's cruise control system.

Hmm, that syncs up nicely with the interesting fact that the R20 is still using a Medallion electronics package - the only model in the lineup to do so (everything else is Murphy at the moment). That implies they have a source for these touchpads (or else have enough of them in stock to cover their expected production of R20's for a while). Anyone buy a recent R20? Take a look at the sticker on the cabling... what vendor name is on it? What production date? Could tell us a WHOLE LOT about what's going on there.

If someone is near a dealer that has an R20 in stock, run down there and let us know what is on that sticker please!

[Timmy!]

I will go to the dealer and find out or ping my buddy Nick and have him look. The only issue is that they moved this to a not easy to access location.

[gwhite94]

Tim, I will be up at the shop tomorrow doing some tuning on the boat, I will take a look.

[Timmy!]

Awesome, GW! Thank you!

[Timmy!]

Ok, stopped by WWS tonight and found out that the R20 speedset is made by:
https://www.evsmanufacturing.com/customers.html
I tried to get a picture but it is worthless. That controller is tucked up there pretty good. I can try and get the part #, I thought my pic was good enough until I got home.

[IDBoating]

And what do you know - EVS Manufacturing is in the same little WA State town, with the same zip code, as was Valberg LLC. Wanna bet the "V" in EVS stands for Valberg?

I'll bet it's the same company, perhaps reorganized, perhaps under new management, perhaps on the other side of a bankruptcy or liability suit, but the same basic company.

[Timmy!]

That's exactly what I was thinking too. Looks like maybe they shifted ownership to the wife or a daughter or another female. Good for them if they were able to pull themselves back up. I reached out via email last night, I will let you all know if they get back to me.

[Timmy!]

Strike 1...

Greetings Tim,

Unfortunate due to the water proofing potting that incases the circuit board, these units cannot be reworked. We have tried different techniques but have failed in being able to rework or repair the unit.

Denise Root
President
EVS Manufacturing Inc.

[IDBoating]

Oh now, come on. I grant that SOME failure modes would be unworkable, but for example replacing the snap domes is certainly doable. OTOH, repairing the PCB is hopeless since it's what is called a "potted module" where they put it in a box and fill the box with a hard material.

I'm sending you a PM.

[Timmy!]

PM replied to. Thanks for you help and ideas!

[IDBoating]

I've replied back. Keep me posted!

[IDBoating]

Travis, check your PM's please.

[jmitchell]

I've been following this thread for some time looking for a solid fix before I dig into the medallion and start messing with it but summer is near and I'm ready to work on it.

Here's how ours is acting...For the first boat run of any given day, I flip the cruise switch on the dash and prepare to set the speed with the medallion but the "up" button does not function. However, after pressing the "up" button about 30-40 times it will start to work. Almost like having to "warm it up". The up and down will then work for most of the rest of the day unless the boat sits idle for some time and then hitting it a bunch of times will get it to work again. Seems like the issue has gotten worse over the last 2 summers but we've just been dealing with it.

FYI - Its a 2010 Z1 with ~120hrs

Any thoughts on a fix? Thanks for the help.

[IDBoating]

Here's how ours is acting...For the first boat run of any given day, I flip the cruise switch on the dash and prepare to set the speed with the medallion but the "up" button does not function. However, after pressing the "up" button about 30-40 times it will start to work. Almost like having to "warm it up".

You have either 1) dirty contacts under the snap domes, or 2) one of the domes has become semi-permanently inverted, shorting out that side.

Idea: Look back in this thread at the pattern of snap domes under either side's rubber cover. There's more than one snap dome, but they're wired in parallel so it doesn't matter which one you depress. Chances are you generally depress the same one. Try carefully pressing a DIFFERENT one and see if that works better. If it does, it confirms that you have dirty contacts under the dome you normally use. If it doesn't, then you probably have an inverted dome.

Either way, the fix is to carefully separate the layers and 1) clean the domes and the contact surfaces, or 2) replace/remove the errant dome.

[jmitchell]

Thanks for the quick response WABoating! I know that when the problem first started it seemed like pressing near the top of the up button would get it working quicker. I think we are still generally pushing at the top of it 30-40 times for the warm up until it starts working again. Yes, typically we just pressed in the middle of the button until the problem started. We'll have to tear it apart and start testing.