House battery not charging unless switch is in combined position.

[earl6577]

So last summer I had my house battery suddenly quit charging while out surfing. Next morning, I found a boat mechanic and had him install a new battery. Same problem kept happening even with the new battery. So I switched my promariner isocharge out to a Blue Sea SI-ACR and problem has persisted. In my laziness, I've been using my switch to charge both batteries while running. I try not to stop or start engine while in combined position, but it has happened a few times. I have no other electrical issues. What could I be missing?

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[SONIC]

The ACR should take care of it without drama, have you double checked all of your wiring? Sounds like a loose/missing connection to the house bank.

[chpthril]

May be time to find a boat technician that understands how the system work, to actually diagnose the root cause.

With the engine running, what was the status light on the procharge? With the engine running now, is the combine light illuminated on the ACR?

Although the ACR cna do vertually the same job as the procharge, their wiring schematic is a little different. This is where it can be wrth the expense to enlist the help of a knowledgeable technician that can diagnose the system and resolve.

[stpinetree]

How did you notice, did the house battery go dead? I have a new to me 2015, and I think the house battery isn't charging, as indicated by the volt meter in the Tige touch display. Underway, the crank battery shows 13+ and the house battery will show a little under 12. But I haven't had the house battery go dead yet. Not sure if the isolator is the problem or if it's ok. Folks say running in combined stresses the alternator, but I'm combined the display reads like both are charging equally. Hard to troubleshoot, given the difficult access to the proisocharge. They couldn't have put it in a worse location on my boat.

[chpthril]

Folks say running in combined stresses the alternator,

And hi-octane gas makes the engine faster

Seriously, going through the VSR and the mechanical switch, is electrically the same load on the alternator. There are very very few conditions under which the VSR would open while the engine is running, isolating the cranking from the house bank.

[earl6577]

Yes the combined light on the ACR is lit during operation.Foolishly, I never got down in the rear locker while running to see the indicator lights on my pro mariner. I posed a question to one of the gurus from a west coast dealer and was told promariner isocharge are prone to mess up. He suggested going with the blue sea ACR. I'm going to pull the rear panels apart so I can access the batteries and ACR better. Something isn't hooked up right. My wife reminded me that this all occurred shortly after the dealer had my boat replacing an actuator. They called saying one of my batteries needed to be replaced. I said go ahead. Then a short time later, maybe one or two trips to the lake we were having battery issues. I found a local boat shop and they installed a new battery. Much to my surprise the battery that was going dead was the new battery that had just been installed at the dealer a few weeks before. That's when I went down the rabbit hole and switched from promariner to blue sea. I should have got to the bottom of all this during the winter but here I am.

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[freeheel4life]

So its late, and I admittedly didn't go thru this whole thread, but I'm guessing part of the issue is the way the ACR is supposed/assumed to be wired VS what tige did.

In most applications the battery (B+ post of alternator) is wired straight back to the B+ post on the starter. Tige ditched that factory wiring(factory in this case means engine manufacturer) and ran a wire straight from the alternator B+ to the IsoPro and leaves charging in position one dependent on the isolators built in relays.

so long late night drinks short....you have to find both ends of the original engine harness and connect alternator to starter..or just build your own 4 GA jumper, then follow the Blue Sea ACR schematic.

The hangup it that big red wire from your alternator straight to the ProIso.

[chpthril]

Freeheel,

If the Alternator cable was hooked to the procharge and the system originally worked, then the needed cable is is where it needs to be to work with the new Blue Seas ACR. Once removed from the procharge, it needed to be connected to the "A" post of the ACR. "A" connected to the cranking battery is electrically the same as the alternator output coming to the main cranking via the large starter cable?

earl,

Sounds like the ACR is trying to work. The COMBINE light indicates the control ground is connected and the ACR is seeing some voltage input on one side. Still a chance one of the 3 cables that came off the procharge, was not hooked up correctly, or a cable is off somewhere else.

[earl6577]

Thanks for the input guys. I've been so busy at work that I haven't messed with it. My plan was to check my ground to the ACR and inline fuse on battery to ACR cables but never got around to it. It's just such a simple install :
Alternator cable to crank battery.
Cable from crank/primary battery to ACR pole 1
House/secondary to pole 2
Ground to ACR (Had to make my own ground with a spade connector to attach to ACR out of 10ga.) Which is why I am going to check my ground crimps.
Ignition wire to ACR

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[earl6577]

I have made time to finish my GSA plates upgrade, all fluid change, replaced my leaking surflo heater pump and just hit 600 hrs on my '16 Z3.

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[earl6577]

Well fellas, my charging problem is fixed. Finally checked my ground connection and the spade connector pulled right off. Wires were cut into when I stripped it. Put a new connector on and my combiner did it's job flawlessly all day.

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