Correct wiring question for Rule Float on my TIGE R20?

[Seahawks13]

So I have a Rule bilge pump that was wired directly to the switch on the dash. Switch on dash switch and the bilge pump comes on, switch off switch on the dash bilge pump goes off. So I want to add a float so it will run without the switch on the dash if there is water in the bilge. So can someone explain the wiring procedure for doing that? I am a little confused how the on/off switch on the dash works in this scenario. So my bilge now is wired blue to the black and red to the brown wire with a white line on it. The solid brown is not connected. If I add a float switch how would the wiring go when I add this switch? Is there a way to still have the switch on the dash turn bilge on and also have the float switch turn it on if there is water in the bilge when boat is off or running and water becomes present? I assume this is easy but I just can't figure it out.

Thanks,

Brian

[chpthril]

Tell me more about the brown thats not connected. Is it part of the boat's harness or is it coming out of the pump? Something tells me that that pumps is not the original pump. What year is the boat? I think it should have had a 3-wire pump with internal float already connected direct to the battery.

What GPH is that pump?

[Seahawks13]

No it is not the original they replaced that when I bought it. THe only ones coming from the pump are the red and blue. The other ones are coming from the bot and are the original wires. So there is a brown, brown/white and black that are available for use. The ones hooked up now are the black to blue and brown/white to the red wire. Its a Rule 500 GPH model:8028. I am willing to replace it if needed but want it to work right with the boat.

[Seahawks13]

The brown is tied off but I think was in use before as you can see in the picture.

[chpthril]

That cut/unused brown was likely the original constant B+ for the auto function. So, you could use that to supply the input side of a float. But with only it being a 500, id consider just changing the pump back to a 3-wire that it was, and upgrading to a higher flow, like a 1000, at the same time, rather then invest in a float.

[Seahawks13]

So I assume you mean a pump with a float built in or a sensor that detects the water? That would then have a three wire hook up and would it still be the same set up? Blue to black, red to brown/white and the third wire to the unused brown? But I assume I could figure it out by switching the two brown until it works correctly? Any recommendations of ones you seen that last?


Thanks for the help!

[chpthril]

Yes, a 3-wire pump will have the manual switch mode wire and the auto mode wire, last wire is the ground. Id go with a new pump and upgrade the flow. 500 is not a lot of flow IMO. New pump would show with wire is switched (manual helm switch), constant from battery and ground. It would work just like the original factory pump did.

Brand? They are all pretty equal. Rule, Attwood, Sureflow, etc.

[Seahawks13]

I am still confused how a two switch set up works with a three wire pump. I must be missing something. SORRY! I assume I wire black to black (ground) which goes to the switch on the dash, then brown/white wire to brown/white that is the manual wire that goes to the switch on the dash, and last I wire the solid brown auto wire directly to the positive side of battery for continuous power? Do I got the wiring right now? I know my TIGE has these three wires already in place per the picture so is the auto brown line should already be hot and have a fuse in place? I can sure test it tomorrow to see if its hot. I assume if its hot it should be fuse protected line already?

Here is what I plan to do:

I am going to wire the new three wire pump I buy to the TIGE provided lines and it should work properly if the brown line is hot? If its not hot I will wire the brown auto line directly to the + red side of the battery for constant power to the pump. The two way switch should still turn on the bilge pump manually if turn to the on position?

I can wire a entire house but I just cant get this for some reason?

[Jetdriver]

This is what I just installed in my 07’ 22VE after the OEM pump pooped the bed. It has the correct size outlet for the oem bilge hose and is a 750 GPH pump.
The brown wire you have tied off should have a stripe on it if I remember correctly and is what connects to the float switch power wire and gets hard wired directly to the battery + so that if water gets in the bilge it automatically gets pumped out if it’s deep enough.
The other brown and black are your positive and negative that would run off the switch at the helm.
In short you just need to simply hook them up to the corresponding wires on the pump and trace the float switch power wire to make sure it is indeed hooked directly to the battery +.
The pump I got had different color wires but the directions said which wire was which. If not it’s as easy as hooking the ground (black) up and both the power wires up, if the pump comes on without the bilge switch activated then you have the power wires backwards, swap them and it should be silent until the bilge switch is turned on. You can verify the float turns the pump on by popping the cover off and lifting the float up.
Verify it’s wired correctly before replacing the cover and buttoning everything up.

[chpthril]

I am still confused how a two switch set up works with a three wire pump. I must be missing something. SORRY! I assume I wire black to black (ground) which goes to the switch on the dash, then brown/white wire to brown/white that is the manual wire that goes to the switch on the dash, and last I wire the solid brown auto wire directly to the positive side of battery for continuous power? Do I got the wiring right now? I know my TIGE has these three wires already in place per the picture so is the auto brown line should already be hot and have a fuse in place? I can sure test it tomorrow to see if its hot. I assume if its hot it should be fuse protected line already?

Here is what I plan to do:

I am going to wire the new three wire pump I buy to the TIGE provided lines and it should work properly if the brown line is hot? If its not hot I will wire the brown auto line directly to the + red side of the battery for constant power to the pump. The two way switch should still turn on the bilge pump manually if turn to the on position?

I can wire a entire house but I just cant get this for some reason?

the black is ground, and goes to the pump motor and supplies the ground for both manual and auto mode. The switch ground is not relevant to pump operation.

Think of the 3-wire pump as having to switched turn-ons. One is the manual switch on the helm and the 2nd is the float or water sensor. Once 12 volt hits the other side (from the ground) of the pump motor on either of those other 2 circuits, the motor runs.

On the pump side, as in the wires coming out of your new 3-wire pump, the solid brown is likely the manual switched 12V. Bwn/wht is likely the constant 12V for the auto mode. BLK is pump ground.

On the boat side, blk is ground, what ever brown is hooked to the existing pump is switched. The cut brown should be constant 12V, so confirm with a volt meter. If no voltage, find fuse about 6-8 inches off one of the battery + posts. Small brown (may have red or white tracer) then inline fuse.

[freeheel4life]

R20s split batteries and house is on stbd side and cranking is on port(narrower bean doesn't allow them to sit together like other models). Fairly certain that the constant power(brown wire) is on the positive of the cranking battery