So I'm a Stereo Idiot

[GATigeguy]

Ok, let me preface this with, I have never done any stereo modifications from stock on any of my vehicles... ever.

That said, I REALLY want to upgrade the system in my Tige.

I am trying to understand what I will need for amps, etc so that I don't underpower my speakers and damage them.

If I want to install a new Head Unit (they typically supply 52W/ch) how much amp do I need just to power the 4 in boat speakers sufficiently. Lets say that I am looking at powering 4 Kicker KM620s; they say 2-65 Watt RMS w/ 195 Watt peak. How much amp do I need to power those?

I totally expect Phil and Mike to chime in on this early, please don't make this a "brand" war, I just want something that sounds good that isn't going to raise any eyebrows on the credit card statement

Thanks

[da.bell]

Do you have intentions on putting tower speakers on? Now or later?

[GATigeguy]

Tower speakers will probably go on , but definitely later, I want to use some of the available funds to install a PP Star Gazer and can't float both items at the same time.

[chpthril]

In your best Super Hero voice "Here I am to save the day" J/k

Which ever head unit you have in mind, ignore the speaker output from it, it's prolly a max watts anyway and you'd be lucky to see .5 that so you are on the right track wanting to amp the speakers.

So, the amp! Are you planing to add a sub now or in the near future?

[ATL 22Ve]

Whatever you get, make sure it is expandable for the future if you will be adding more components. Don't skimp on the amps now, because it will limit what you can do in the future.

I am upgrading my tower amp to a Alpine Marine PDX-4.100m to drive 4 Wetsounds tower speakers. Seems like the best bang for the buck, but you have to shop for the best deal!

[GATigeguy]

I am accepting the fact that I will probably want to add a subwoofer later, but I assume that with the sub will probably come the tower speakers. Would like to see options with and without the sub out capability. If the options on the amps don't vary too much in price then I will probably go with the amp with the sub out as well.
I'm glad you decided to chime in Mike, I have been reading about your stereo adventures for some time.

[majestic]

Whatever you get, make sure it is expandable for the future if you will be adding more components. Don't skimp on the amps now, because it will limit what you can do in the future.

I am upgrading my tower amp to a Alpine Marine PDX-4.100m to drive 4 Wetsounds tower speakers. Seems like the best bang for the buck, but you have to shop for the best deal!

I sure there are different opinions on Marine grade amps but I saved some money going with the standard PDX over the marine, however I never store any wet items in the storage compartment boat stays in dry storage and I bought the extended warranty just in case.

Also seems that your tower speakers will be a little underpowered. My PDX-4.100 runs 200 watts to each of my Bullet 650's and they are loud over 100'. I do have another 4.100 that is waiting for another set of Bullets (purely for looks).

[skyski_tige]

Don't forget the ear plugs!

[philwsailz]

Sounds like you are considering a subwoofer in your future. Knowing which subwoofer you were considering for that future time would help out now. For example, it would be easy to recommend a Kicker MX700.5; it will drive the KM620/KM6200 right to where they want to be driven, and it has a subwoofer amp section that will deliver 420 watts into two ohms. You could use a dual 4-ohm voice coil woofer on that, or you could use two 4-ohm woofers, (which I did in my boat). With that amp, you are going to be shopping for subwoofers that have power-handling in the 150-200 watt range.

If however, you buy a 5 or 6-channel amp now, and then decide you want, oh, say an L7 woofer or another higher power-handling subwoofer, you will find yourself wanting more power than the subwoofer section of a 5 or 6-channel amp can deliver.

You could consider NOT going with a 5 or 6-channel amp right now. Buy each amp at the time you add the next speakers. There is no downside to this, other than the additional power wiring that you will have to install. Planning for this on the front-end is advisable. Going that route give you the best solution in terms of flexibility in choosing your subwoofer and tower speakers later without ending up with the wrong amp. If you are going with the KM620 for example, get an MX350.4 amp.
Then when you add the sub, get an amp for that at or near your total subwoofer system power handling.
Finally, when you add your tower speakers, shop for those and the amplifier that will run them together so you get exactly the power you need for the tower speakers.

Make sense?

Phil
Kicker

[time2kyl]

For example, it would be easy to recommend a Kicker MX700.5; it will drive the KM620/KM6200 right to where they want to be driven, and it has a subwoofer amp section that will deliver 420 watts into two ohms. You could use a dual 4-ohm voice coil woofer on that, or you could use two 4-ohm woofers, (which I did in my boat). With that amp, you are going to be shopping for subwoofers that have power-handling in the 150-200 watt range.

This is precisely my setup for the in cabin portion 4-KM620 and 2-SKM10, except I went with the ZX700.5 (car version). I must say it Not as much as say Domz, but it gets the job done.

http://tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5731

[TRD]

GATigeguy,
Since your in Altanta you may want to do your upgrade like I did. Come up to NC/SC Tige reunion this year and win a pair of Tower speakers. Then come up next and win a Sub. Buy a head unit and cabin speakers and you got it started. Well at least that is how it worked for me didn't it Chptril...THANKS

Whatever you do, make sure you can expand on it. Like I said, I started w/ just the tower speakers. Then added a head unit and cabins speakers. Now I am adding the rest now, just don't have it all hooked up yet.

[DieselPWR]

Just match up the RMS watts and ohms on the amp to the speakers. don't pay attention to max.

I'd go with a 5 channel amp to power the boat speakers and future/present sub, then you can always add a second amp when you figure out your tower setup. I have the MX700.5 for my 4 in-boat speakers and 10" sub. Then the 800.4 to power my wetsounds Pro 80s and 60s.

Whatever you get, make sure to get the wetsounds 420 equalizer. Allows you to fine tune everything.

Not to brag or anything, but that setup won me the best sound system at a Tige event.

[Tanner]

I am accepting the fact that I will probably want to add a subwoofer later, but I assume that with the sub will probably come the tower speakers. Would like to see options with and without the sub out capability. If the options on the amps don't vary too much in price then I will probably go with the amp with the sub out as well.
I'm glad you decided to chime in Mike, I have been reading about your stereo adventures for some time.

If for some reason in the future you find yourself having to choose between a sub and tower speakers.... I say def. go w/ the sub first. I had my sub amp fry on me last labor day, so I was w/o my sub that day. It def. was missing something. Now I do have a pair of 485's, so my tower speakers are pretty damn loud. Although the 485's have a ton of midbass, you could def. tell I was missing something.

[chpthril]

I will also add that there seems to be a pretty strong used stereo parts market. If you go with what the budget allows now, and then next year decide that the time is right to do a significant upgrade, pull out what doesnt fit the new plan and sell it.

[GATigeguy]

ok, I'll bite, what do you have available in the "used stereo parts" market? I think I'm going to go with the 5 channel amp (probably something like the MX700.5) and 4 new 6.5" speakers (my old ones are toast). Probably will want a new HU as well but it will have to be one that goes in a normal size slot, and with USB hook-up for iPod.