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    Newbie with lots o' questions

    I have a 22ve that was missing the entire stereo when I got it a few weeks ago. (Killer deal on a repo, like 2007 40hrs like new 32K kind of deal)
    Anyway I have almost all of my gear to replace the entire system and it is comprised of the following: (Just made a best guess and got it all on ebay)

    CMD5 HU
    (6) Polk DB6501 component 6" speakers for the cabin
    (1) Polk 1240 12" Sub
    (3) JL 2250 250w amps (2 channel)
    Remote and Ipod connector blah blah blah

    Anyway, my question is, all I want is a family boat for the kids and don't need anything that is crazy loud.

    1. Should I even use the 3 amps?
    2. How would I configure this setup as far as what speakers to what amp?
    3. I only have one very large Deep cell and don;t really want to add anothe unless you guys think I should. (just don't want the hassle if I can avoid it)
    4. I am a VQM (very qualified mechanic LOL) Just don;t really know what to do here.
    Biggest lake addict on the planet

    #2
    Well, if you have all the components, then I guess we need to figure out how best to use them. I need to check the specs on what you have (amps and subs) and see what we can do.

    Other then 6 in-boat speakers and a sub, do you have any tower speakers? If not, any plans?
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      I don't have any towers and don;t really want them. I am also open to getting the right amps if these won't work efficiently. I just had to make a "best guess" and get what fit into the holes that were already cut. This poor guy took EVERYTHING out including the wires before they came and took his boat.

      Anyway thanks for helping me.
      Biggest lake addict on the planet

      Comment


        #4
        What you have in the way of amps, will work. They will leave your sub and 2 pairs of cabin speakers well under powered, but I believe it will meet you current expectations.

        The JL2250 2chnl amp will deliver 60 watts x 2 @ 4ohm's, 90 watts x 2 @ 2ohm's, and 180 watts x 1 @ 4ohm's.

        The Polk 1240 12" (i'm guessing it's the single 4ohm coil) sub is rated at 360 watts continuous power. It will require an enclosure, looks like 2.87 cu/ft

        So, with the sub on one amp, wired in bridge mode, it will receive 180 watts.

        With 1 pair of the components on the 2nd amp, they will receive 60 watts ea. With the last 2 pairs of components on the 3rd JL amp, they will receive 45 watts ea with 1 pair each wired in parallel on 1 channel. I would run the 1 pair of bow speakers on their own amp and the 4 in the main cabin off the other amp.

        For the sub amp, use the head-units purple "non-fade" RCA output. Use the gray "Front" RCA's for the bow and the black "Rear" for the main cabin amp.

        Set the sub amp in "Low-pass" and the other 2 amps in "Hi-pass" Set the X-overs for the sub between 50-80 Hz's and the other 2 amps on about 100Hz's.
        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

        Comment


          #5
          WOW your making this too easy for me. Thats exactly what I needed and very much what I want. I won't be hanging out playing the radio all day in a cove, but I would like to play it for say 30 minutes to an hour with the motor off.

          Will the single deep cell battery work ok and be reliable?

          Also I guess I need to run one large #4 or ? to the passenger side (or drivers) front dash storage and then split it up for the power on the amps correct? That seems to be were everyone is putting the amps.

          Also how to get power to the HU? To fuse block in boat or just go to battery?

          Again, thanks for the help on this. My kids are upset that the boat is all torn apart LOL
          Biggest lake addict on the planet

          Comment


            #6
            Go Mike!

            right on the money. Total agreement from me!

            Thomas-

            For brief sitting and listening, you probably will be okay with a single battery. I have run that way with a system for three years prior to installing a dual battery system this year. I always kept a set of jumper wires and a battery booster/ jump pack just in case... That being said, it is relatively cheap insurance to install a second battery; consider it the emergency "get the motor started and back to the ramp" battery. We can discuss that further later and/or elsewhere.

            As for the power to the head unit, the quietest way we have found is to use the amplifier terminals as a connection point for the radio power. This makes everything operate on the same circuit at exactly the same voltage, and it just works better. Your head unit has two power wires, one yellow and one red. Connect the yellow wire directly to the "+" terminal of the amp. The red power wire will connect here also, but you want to install some method of turning power off to the red wire. Many boats have a simple rocker switch at the dash specifically for turning the stereo on and off, and that would be a good switch to use in this instance. Then take your head unit ground wire to the "-" terminal of the amp.

            There are no doubt going to be a few more questions, so fire them off to this thread as you think of them. Chpthril, (Mike) is a great resource, and he really knows his audio. I can help too.

            Good luck and let us know!


            Phil
            It's not an optical illusion.
            It just looks like one.....

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Thomas Hohl View Post
              WOW your making this too easy for me. Thats exactly what I needed and very much what I want. I won't be hanging out playing the radio all day in a cove, but I would like to play it for say 30 minutes to an hour with the motor off.

              Will the single deep cell battery work ok and be reliable?
              As Phil stated, you should be fine with a single battery, but adding a 2nd is easy as pie. I'm kinda surprise your 22Ve only has on, most dealers will automatically order the dual battery setup.

              Also I guess I need to run one large #4 or ? to the passenger side (or drivers) front dash storage and then split it up for the power on the amps correct? That seems to be were everyone is putting the amps.
              If the boat had factory installed amp(s), then it would have had 1 or 2 sets of 8ga, 1 set to each amp. For all 3, you will probably need to go with 1/0ga (0ga) as each amp is fused at 25A so you are looking at a potential of 75A over 20+ feet of cable.

              Also how to get power to the HU? To fuse block in boat or just go to battery?

              Again, thanks for the help on this. My kids are upset that the boat is all torn apart LOL
              "Mr Modest" got you covered on wiring the head unit
              Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

              Comment


                #8
                That sounds great guys! If I added another battery how would it tie in and charge? This boat only has the single setup. I know I could always just do a static emergency battery for starting and charge it at home. You guys say it's not big deal to add a second battery, I'm open to something simple...

                My deal is I work on this crap day in and day out and just don't really want a alternator eater setup or something that would even resemble an unrealiable setup.

                Money is not an issue on this by any means. I'm just trying to stay out from under the hood as much as possible. right now my boat is in about 50 pcs in the driveway LOL.

                Any suggestions for cable (1/0) and terminal block? Local stereo store I guess...
                Biggest lake addict on the planet

                Comment


                  #9
                  My deal is I work on this crap day in and day out
                  Thats why I'm not a gynecologist............but it is a hobby of mine

                  The easiest way is to use an Auto Combiner Relay such as the #7610 from Blue Sea www.bluesea.com Hook the 2 Negs together, wire the Pos from 1 battery to one side of the ACR, wire the other Pos to the other side of the ACR, then run a small ground wire to the ACR, open a cold one It connects the batteries in parallel when engine is on, opens when off. Anything wired to the "house" battery will only draw from it. Dont worry about the Alt, its a 90A.

                  www.www.knukonceptz.com is the cheapest place to get cable by the ft.
                  Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thomas-

                    The set-it-and-forget-it way o go is with an ACR battery combiner. I know Methu969 has a Blue Sea Systems ACR with a battery switch for sale in the Accessories and Equipment section. The price is right, and he is paying the shipping.

                    Lots of guys install two batteries with the ACR, and then connect the starter and alternator to the starting battery, and then connect the stereo system to Battery #2. The idea is that the boat will always start from batt 1, and when the motor is running, or when you have a charger on batt 1, then the charge relay senses the voltage and closes a relay that allows charging of the stereo battery.

                    I have decided that maybe a better way to do it, especially for folks who have simple single-amp systems, is to connect EVERYTHING, starter, stereo, lights alternator, etc to the battery switch. Connect nothing to either battery, but make sure you can flip that batt switch, (which is included in the item Methu969 has for sale) between either battery to get the boat started. Once running, the boat will charge both batteries, regardless of batt switch position...

                    I thnk we are all still learning a little bit about ACR's; the technology is new to lots of us, but it really is a hassle-free, almost fool-proof way to add a second battery to a boat.

                    If you are remotely interesteed, I would go look up METHU and see if he still has his ACR for sale.

                    Phil
                    It's not an optical illusion.
                    It just looks like one.....

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by chpthril View Post

                      www.www.knukonceptz.com is the cheapest place to get cable by the ft.
                      Agreed, very prompt with order processing and delivery too.
                      Honey I'm home!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Cool, I'm on it.

                        Thanks guys. More questions TK
                        Biggest lake addict on the planet

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I still have the Blue Sea ACR, I have PMd him
                          2005 Tige 24v
                          Wake and Bake!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Methu969 View Post
                            I still have the Blue Sea ACR, I have PMd him
                            Working to help ya man!!!!

                            It's not an optical illusion.
                            It just looks like one.....

                            Comment


                              #15
                              appreciate it.
                              2005 Tige 24v
                              Wake and Bake!

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