Stereo Novice

[froadin]

Hello!
10 year TIGE owner but I'm brand new to posting so if I look ignorant..... I am. I have a 1999 21v and I'm trying to run new cables from the stereo unit to the port hatch. I will be putting in 2 amps there. I bought a 2 kits from KICKER that have really nice RCA cables but they're only 16ft long. My question is- does anyone ever run the cables under the floor or do they have to be run around the bow?

[chpthril]

Hello!
10 year TIGE owner but I'm brand new to posting so if I look ignorant..... I am. I have a 1999 21v and I'm trying to run new cables from the stereo unit to the port hatch. I will be putting in 2 amps there. I bought a 2 kits from KICKER that have really nice RCA cables but they're only 16ft long. My question is- does anyone ever run the cables under the floor or do they have to be run around the bow?

Under the floor it just fine. The only thing I would suggest is to pull them just snug enough that they dont lay on the floor of the bilge in the water. I doubt the water would ever deteriate the rubber insulation, but easy enough to prevent.

What kinda kits? Just RCA's or amp install kits?

[froadin]

The kits are "ZCK4"

[chpthril]

You are going to find that most "amp install kits" are really made for cars and have a short (about 3ft) ground cable. Cars have a metal chassis/body, so the ground wire doesnt have to be run far to get a good ground point but boats do not, you have to run the ground back to the battery like the positive cable. where are you batteries located as far as distance from the amps?

[froadin]

Also, on my boat there doesn't seem to be much wood in the side of the hatch to mount the amps. Is there a cleaver way to do this? It appears that the side wall (where you walk thru) is less than .5 inch. I thought maybe pulling the carpet back and glassing in a piece of plywood and re-carpeting. Any thoughts?

[dogbert]

Hello!
10 year TIGE owner but I'm brand new to posting so if I look ignorant..... I am. I have a 1999 21v and I'm trying to run new cables from the stereo unit to the port hatch. I will be putting in 2 amps there. I bought a 2 kits from KICKER that have really nice RCA cables but they're only 16ft long. My question is- does anyone ever run the cables under the floor or do they have to be run around the bow?

Just pull up the floor. There's a couple openings and you can run it over the gas tank from one side to the other.

BTW, I did my own and have the same boat. You'll want to add another battery and run both power and ground to wherever your AMPS are.

[froadin]

I noticed that when I opened the kit! I'm installing a second battery on the starboard side. I was going to run a cable from the ground of that battery to a distribution block in the hatch. I bought a "Sure Power 1314-200 Smart Solenoid" to separate the batteries.

[chpthril]

Also, on my boat there doesn't seem to be much wood in the side of the hatch to mount the amps. Is there a cleaver way to do this? It appears that the side wall (where you walk thru) is less than .5 inch. I thought maybe pulling the carpet back and glassing in a piece of plywood and re-carpeting. Any thoughts?

Not sure how thick it is there on that year but at some point, Tige started glassing in a piece of composite board just for that reason. May want to have a backup plan, not sure if the carpet will want to let go that easy. There are lots of ways to do amp racks, Liquid Nails will be your friend

[chpthril]

I noticed that when I opened the kit! I'm installing a second battery on the starboard side. I was going to run a cable from the ground of that battery to a distribution block in the hatch. I bought a "Sure Power 1314-200 Smart Solenoid" to separate the batteries.

Where is the original battery located? You will want the POS and NEG for the amp(s) coming from the same battery. You will also need to tie the grounds of the original battery and the new battery together, and the positives will tie together through the Sure-Power, so you will be in the market for some cable anyway

[froadin]

Thanks for the help. One last question.. If i run the cables under the floor should I use something to make the turn so the fiberglass floor doesn't chafe the cables?

[chpthril]

Thanks for the help. One last question.. If i run the cables under the floor should I use something to make the turn so the fiberglass floor doesn't chafe the cables?

Split wire loom always works.

[froadin]

Thanks again!! I'm sure I'll a ton more questions.

[dogbert]

Thanks for the help. One last question.. If i run the cables under the floor should I use something to make the turn so the fiberglass floor doesn't chafe the cables?

Don't worry, you'll be running the cables over the gas tank. Go to Home Depot and get some of that plastic cable cover used for Home stereo installs.

[chpthril]

Just pull up the floor. There's a couple openings and you can run it over the gas tank from one side to the other.

BTW, I did my own and have the same boat. You'll want to add another battery and run both power and ground to wherever your AMPS are.

I wouldn't recommend laying naked wire across the tank, as it is actually grounded to the engine. If the wire were to rub through over time, it will short! You need to add a piece of insulation, like split-loom, anywhere the wire may chaffe. Also use lots of wire ties to support/hold the wire.

[dogbert]

I wouldn't recommend laying naked wire across the tank, as it is actually grounded to the engine. If the wire were to rub through over time, it will short! You need to add a piece of insulation, like split-loom, anywhere the wire may chaffe. Also use lots of wire ties to support/hold the wire.

That's what I recommended he do. Otherwise, on that boat, you have to pull up the gas tank and that definitely is no fun. It's actually less likely to chafe laying on the tank, with the split loom as we recommended, than running around the side of the boat or laying it directly on the fiberglass.