playing time..

[da.bell]

still dont have a solid anwser on playing time if anyone has an idea.. also my alt was checked a few weeks ago and they said it was charging 14. ? volts... put the boat back in the water sat and ran it a few hours. itts only charging about 12 to 13 volts on the gauge??????? is that enough

Send a PM to Philwsailz and Chpthril with this thread as a link. They both have been very, very busy with work lately.

[chpthril]

so what kinda time does that equal.. i just wish i knew more about this stuff

It doesn't equal anything yet, you need to know the Ah rating of each battery and then decide how much time you want to play, then you can calculate how many batteries it will take. 77 amps draw x "Y" (the Ah rating of the battery) = "X" (the number of minutes play time per battery) x "Z" (the length of time you want) = "V" (the number of batteries you need)

so i also get that the two gel filled are better than the cranking and deep cycle acid battery

Well, not really. The kind of battery i.e Gel, AMG, lead-acid, doesn't make one "better" then another, it's about Amp Hours, when looking for play time. Disregard the starting battery as it will be the engines primary battery and not used for the stereo. The 2 gels will probably give you more play time then the 1 wet cell deepcycle, not because they are better batteries, but because there are 2! A 12pk of cans of bottles is not better then a 6pk of cans just because they are bottles, but because there are 2x as many

still dont have a solid answer on playing time if anyone has an idea.. also my alt was checked a few weeks ago and they said it was charging 14. ? volts... put the boat back in the water sat and ran it a few hours. it's only charging about 12 to 13 volts on the gauge??????? is that enough

See above.

the 1 volt between 12V-13V is a huge difference considering that a fully charged battery is 12.8 and a discharged battery is 12V. What was the amp output when tested? How was it tested.....loaded or unloaded? Are your current batteries fully charged? Was that reading at the gauge or the batteries?

[kana12]

it was reading at the gauge. and im not sure how they tested it at the dealer i know they took it some where and my gauge was reading like 9 volts when i turn the ignition on but the boat ran for like 3 hours strait and still was reading between 12 an 13 v..

also i now understand that you want me to use the two gel bat. for the sterio and the cranking battery for the boat but right now both my batteries that are acid filled are connected together. i dont have a seperate switch for my radio. i have to have boath o my switches on for the radio to play or at least i know for sure that i have to have the main on because its the ignition battery for me to turn my key backwards.

[chpthril]

it was reading at the gauge. and im not sure how they tested it at the dealer i know they took it some where and my gauge was reading like 9 volts when i turn the ignition on but the boat ran for like 3 hours strait and still was reading between 12 an 13 v..

also i now understand that you want me to use the two gel bat. for the sterio and the cranking battery for the boat but right now both my batteries that are acid filled are connected together. i dont have a seperate switch for my radio. i have to have boath o my switches on for the radio to play or at least i know for sure that i have to have the main on because its the ignition battery for me to turn my key backwards.

Regardless of what type of batteries you go with or even how many.......you NEED to isolate the starting battery bank and get the stereo system running off its own bank. Play time dont me chit when you're the last one partying at the sandbar and you turn the key and all you get is "click click click". You can either leave the stereo bank completely separate from the starting bank, and charge at the dock, or: get a Perko style 1/2/BOTH/OFF switch, or: get an Iso/Combiner of some kind, either a Diode type or and ACR. You can add the switch to these and be able to use the stereo bank as a backup starting bank in case of a main battery failure.

Someone is selling a Blue Sea Add-a-Battery: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9060

[philwsailz]

The Blue Sea 7650 ACR for sale by METHU969 is ideal for the application and is a relatively simple installation. The price is way right too, if you pick it up.


Please forgive me if I have not posted much to this thread; as DA pointed out, both CHP and I have been busy...

That being said, my experience says CHP is on the money in terms of a guideline for how long the system will play... Once you know the current draw for the system, (77 amps from CHP's post above) you can then figure an approximate play time from the battery system capacity and total reserve capacity of the battery bank. It WILL vary depending on what battery or batteries you use.

As for the charging system, most alternators will provide a charge voltage of about 14.4 volts at running RPM's; less at idle. We require a higher charge voltage from the alternator in order to create a current flow into the battery. If the battery were sitting discharged at 12 volts, and the alternator only provided 12 volts, the voltage potential will be the same between the battery and the alternator, and no current will flow into the battery. Hopefully that makes sense?

[kana12]

sp how would i hook this thong up since i have two seperate switches already

[kana12]

never mind i got it.. i understand.. thats awsome.. i contacted the guy.. thanks for all the help.. for now.