Originally posted by jwanck11
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My speakers whine!
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Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by chpthril View Post#30 and #87 are typically connected when energized, #30 and 87A are connected when relay is de-energized (at rest)www.automarinecare.com CWB, ACME, FlyHigh, Merc Marine, PCM, Marine-power, WETSOUNDS, HSE Volume Controls, Kicker, Sony, Samson Sports, and many other marine parts or accessory's.
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Originally posted by chpthril View PostIt's the best way to do it to minimize the chance of unwanted noise and in many cases will fix noise issues. If your system has no pops/whines, etc, then I'd say if it ain't broke, don't fix it, if you are doing and new install, or upgrading, I would recommend rewiring the H/U and/or w/s420 to the amps.Last edited by SPBFAN; 01-08-2009, 02:31 AM.www.automarinecare.com CWB, ACME, FlyHigh, Merc Marine, PCM, Marine-power, WETSOUNDS, HSE Volume Controls, Kicker, Sony, Samson Sports, and many other marine parts or accessory's.
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Originally posted by jwanck11 View PostAwesome information, but dummy me could use picts of connections. Does anyone have a couple of picts to share?Last edited by SPBFAN; 01-08-2009, 06:23 PM.www.automarinecare.com CWB, ACME, FlyHigh, Merc Marine, PCM, Marine-power, WETSOUNDS, HSE Volume Controls, Kicker, Sony, Samson Sports, and many other marine parts or accessory's.
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Supreme Tigé Master
- Apr 2007
- 12007
- Lake Carl Blackwell, Stilly, USA
- 54 Bellcraft, 56 Burchcraft, 61 LoneStar, 75 Catalina 27
Originally posted by SPBFAN View PostHere is how I did mine.
I think it is worth clarification. At this point, we have shared two different schematics for the use of relays.
The first schematic that I posted describes a method for getting good clean power from the amplifier terminals for both the yellow and red head unit power wires. The schematic describes using the pre-existing switched power lead to trigger the relay so that the head unit's red power wire gets its power from the amp terminal, rather than through the switch.
The other schematic that I posted, (the second one) is specifically using the blue turn-on lead from the head unit to energize a SECOND relay in the system. This relay would provide power to the amplifier's remote turn-on leads and to the EQ.
Ideally, you would use TWO relays for the audio system if you have several amps, processors, etc. I do not propose or recommend an either/or situation. Ideally, you would use both relays.
I hope that clears up any confusion we have caused.Last edited by philwsailz; 01-09-2009, 03:51 PM.It's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....
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Supreme Tigé Master
- Apr 2007
- 12007
- Lake Carl Blackwell, Stilly, USA
- 54 Bellcraft, 56 Burchcraft, 61 LoneStar, 75 Catalina 27
Okay, here is a schematic showing BOTH applications for the relays.
Notice that there is one relay between the key switch and the radio. That allows the key switch to turn the radio on and off, but keeps all the power for the radio coming from the amplifier's positive power terminal. Notice also that you do not need to take the radio's yellow wire all the way to the amp. Bring one wire up from the amp. Tie it to the yellow wire, AND to terminal number 30 of the relay.
As I drew this, it became apparent to me that you NEED a fuse on the new power wire coming from the amplifier to the radio. Be sure to add one. I suggest 15 amps probably will work, but take a look at the radio fuses, and add them up The fuse I show next to the amplifier can be up to 1.5 times the sum of the radio fuses.
The other relay I show is right next to the amplifier. This relay is turned on and off by the blue turn-on lead from the radio. Using a relay here will allow you to connect 3 or more amplifiers without taxing the head unit's turn-on lead, as Andrew suggests above. If you only have one amp, and maybe a little EQ or signal processor, you probably do not need this second relay; this second relay is primarily for those times when you are turning on a lot of devices with the radio.
If you are using an EQ or other signal processor device, you will probably connect it to the same power wiring as the head unit, right at the head unit connections. If the EQ or signal processor has a turn-on lead, you might want to wire it to the relay I show by the amp, or it can be wired straight to the blue wire from the radio. That decision is going to vary from installation to installation, so there is not as much a hard rule there.
I reallly hope this helps out a lot, and clarifies things... No doubt there will be questions, so ask away!Attached FilesLast edited by philwsailz; 01-09-2009, 04:13 PM.It's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....
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Tigé Jedi
- Feb 2004
- 5557
- St. George, Utah
- 2021 Ri237, 2019 25 LSV, 2016+2015 G23, Malibu 247, X45, 2005 24V, 2002 21V
I only have a second right now so I haven't looked at it in detail, but why can't I just run my HU power from the amp to a switch on my dash and back to the HU? Then when I want to turn on the radio, I just flip a switch...The power comes from the right source and all is good.
The only downside I see is the wire would be energized all the time and if I forget to turn the switch off, then I will kill my batteries.Be excellent to one another.
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Supreme Tigé Master
- Apr 2007
- 12007
- Lake Carl Blackwell, Stilly, USA
- 54 Bellcraft, 56 Burchcraft, 61 LoneStar, 75 Catalina 27
Originally posted by talltigeguy View PostI only have a second right now so I haven't looked at it in detail, but why can't I just run my HU power from the amp to a switch on my dash and back to the HU? Then when I want to turn on the radio, I just flip a switch...The power comes from the right source and all is good.
The only downside I see is the wire would be energized all the time and if I forget to turn the switch off, then I will kill my batteries.It's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....
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I'm not enthused having my stereo wired to the ignition switch. When stopping to pick up a boarder/skier I shut the engine down. However, even a rapid turn of the key through OFF to ACC kills the power for a moment and causes the whole sound system to cycle. I'm considering wiring the sounds to an unused dash rocker switch instead of to the ignition switch and using MUTE to pause the sounds while communicating to the person in the water.
I can't think of another way to keep the stereo power up when turning off the engine. Am I missing something, perhaps like an ignition switch that has OFF-ACC-IGN instead of ACC-OFF-IGN?
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