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Is wiring a HU/WS-420 to an amp a bandaid to fix an issue or a proper long-term solution even if no issue exists?
It's the best way to do it to minimize the chance of unwanted noise and in many cases will fix noise issues. If your system has no pops/whines, etc, then I'd say if it ain't broke, don't fix it, if you are doing and new install, or upgrading, I would recommend rewiring the H/U and/or w/s420 to the amps.
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#30 and #87 are typically connected when energized, #30 and 87A are connected when relay is de-energized (at rest)
Correct I agree.
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It's the best way to do it to minimize the chance of unwanted noise and in many cases will fix noise issues. If your system has no pops/whines, etc, then I'd say if it ain't broke, don't fix it, if you are doing and new install, or upgrading, I would recommend rewiring the H/U and/or w/s420 to the amps.
X2 if I get the energy and desire with as cold as it is out side right now I will pull the covers off my boat and take pictures of the recently added components and Relay. Tall go to CARQUEST on main street tell them you need a Relay Part Number is 56-1743. Or RY48 two different part numbers same part. It has a bracket built in for mounting the relay by the amps or where ever you choose. Get some but connectors and build your wiring harness for the relay. Get some Orange, Red, and Black wire. Orange is switched, Red is Power, and Black is ground. Use that as your main switch for all the Amps and WS420. This way your head Unit is not overloaded making noise trying to keep everything turned on. It also transfers higher amperage to the devices so they do not make noise struggling to get power. I would absolutely run your powers and grounds thought the AMP's like CHP and Phil said. This is a very good thread and I think anyone doing stereo work should read this. Great advise guys.
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I think it is worth clarification. At this point, we have shared two different schematics for the use of relays.
The first schematic that I posted describes a method for getting good clean power from the amplifier terminals for both the yellow and red head unit power wires. The schematic describes using the pre-existing switched power lead to trigger the relay so that the head unit's red power wire gets its power from the amp terminal, rather than through the switch.
The other schematic that I posted, (the second one) is specifically using the blue turn-on lead from the head unit to energize a SECOND relay in the system. This relay would provide power to the amplifier's remote turn-on leads and to the EQ.
Ideally, you would use TWO relays for the audio system if you have several amps, processors, etc. I do not propose or recommend an either/or situation. Ideally, you would use both relays.
I hope that clears up any confusion we have caused.
Okay, here is a schematic showing BOTH applications for the relays.
Notice that there is one relay between the key switch and the radio. That allows the key switch to turn the radio on and off, but keeps all the power for the radio coming from the amplifier's positive power terminal. Notice also that you do not need to take the radio's yellow wire all the way to the amp. Bring one wire up from the amp. Tie it to the yellow wire, AND to terminal number 30 of the relay.
As I drew this, it became apparent to me that you NEED a fuse on the new power wire coming from the amplifier to the radio. Be sure to add one. I suggest 15 amps probably will work, but take a look at the radio fuses, and add them up The fuse I show next to the amplifier can be up to 1.5 times the sum of the radio fuses.
The other relay I show is right next to the amplifier. This relay is turned on and off by the blue turn-on lead from the radio. Using a relay here will allow you to connect 3 or more amplifiers without taxing the head unit's turn-on lead, as Andrew suggests above. If you only have one amp, and maybe a little EQ or signal processor, you probably do not need this second relay; this second relay is primarily for those times when you are turning on a lot of devices with the radio.
If you are using an EQ or other signal processor device, you will probably connect it to the same power wiring as the head unit, right at the head unit connections. If the EQ or signal processor has a turn-on lead, you might want to wire it to the relay I show by the amp, or it can be wired straight to the blue wire from the radio. That decision is going to vary from installation to installation, so there is not as much a hard rule there.
I reallly hope this helps out a lot, and clarifies things... No doubt there will be questions, so ask away!
I only have a second right now so I haven't looked at it in detail, but why can't I just run my HU power from the amp to a switch on my dash and back to the HU? Then when I want to turn on the radio, I just flip a switch...The power comes from the right source and all is good.
The only downside I see is the wire would be energized all the time and if I forget to turn the switch off, then I will kill my batteries.
I only have a second right now so I haven't looked at it in detail, but why can't I just run my HU power from the amp to a switch on my dash and back to the HU? Then when I want to turn on the radio, I just flip a switch...The power comes from the right source and all is good.
The only downside I see is the wire would be energized all the time and if I forget to turn the switch off, then I will kill my batteries.
You can do that. It will work fine. the only downside is exactly the situation you describe.
It's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....
I'm not enthused having my stereo wired to the ignition switch. When stopping to pick up a boarder/skier I shut the engine down. However, even a rapid turn of the key through OFF to ACC kills the power for a moment and causes the whole sound system to cycle. I'm considering wiring the sounds to an unused dash rocker switch instead of to the ignition switch and using MUTE to pause the sounds while communicating to the person in the water.
I can't think of another way to keep the stereo power up when turning off the engine. Am I missing something, perhaps like an ignition switch that has OFF-ACC-IGN instead of ACC-OFF-IGN?
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