Power and Ground for Head Unit

[tige']

I am installing a new stereo and I am wondering the best way to run the power and ground for the head unit.

I am also installing a second battery with a combiner.

I have searched some past threads and understand to avoid alternator and engine noise that the amps and head unit should share the same ground.

But what about the power - both the memory (yellow) and ignition (red) power?

I would like to keep the the radio power controlled by the ignition switch if I can (just to insure that it doesn't ever get left on) but don't want to introduce any whine or noise in the system But, if it is best to wire them separately I would.

What are the typical methods of running these power wires?

Thanks

[chpthril]

I am installing a new stereo and I am wondering the best way to run the power and ground for the head unit.

I am also installing a second battery with a combiner.

I have searched some past threads and understand to avoid alternator and engine noise that the amps and head unit should share the same ground.

But what about the power - both the memory (yellow) and ignition (red) power?

I would like to keep the the radio power controlled by the ignition switch if I can (just to insure that it doesn't ever get left on) but don't want to introduce any whine or noise in the system But, if it is best to wire them separately I would.

What are the typical methods of running these power wires?

Thanks

The best way to insure the least amount of unwanted noise is to wire the H/U to the same battery as the amps. Since you are adding an additional battery: run the amp's power and ground directly to this new battery. Use some form of circuit protection, either fuse or better yet a marine rated manual-reset breaker, on the 12+ wire within 12" of the battery. Next, wire the H/U's GND and yellow POS to one of the amp's POS and GND.

The H/u's small red wire is just a remote turn-on just like the H/U uses to turn on the amps. Go ahead and wire it to the original key switched 12V. If the previous system did not have any pops or noise, I doubt the new one will (at least not from the red remote turn-on wire). There are other sources for noise, like the RCA's and other electronics on the boat, so if you get some, dont fret, it happens with installs/upgrades.

What kind of combiner?

[tige']

Great thanks, that was what I was hoping I could do. I just wasn't sure if I could leave the red wire going to the ignition.

I went with the circuit breaker you recommended to me earlier on the amp power. So I am good there.

The combiner I got is the 100 Yandina. Any tips on wiring this in? It seems pretty straight forward.

Thanks again for all the help!

[chpthril]

Great thanks, that was what I was hoping I could do. I just wasn't sure if I could leave the red wire going to the ignition.

I went with the circuit breaker you recommended to me earlier on the amp power. So I am good there.

The combiner I got is the 100 Yandina. Any tips on wiring this in? It seems pretty straight forward.

Thanks again for all the help!

Haven't used that one so nope, but let us know how it goes!

[tige']

OK, I disconnected the ground and the yellow wire from the head unit but left the red ignition controlled wire.

I ran the ground and the yellow power wire from the head unit to the dist block (along with the ground and power for the relay to start up the amps). The dist block is powered by the second battery with no connection at all to the starting battery.

Now, I have no power at all at the unit. I am guessing this is because I no longer have a ground for the red wire which is supposed to start the head unit.

Now what?? Do I need to run the ground from the head unit to both batteries? Do I need to connect the grounds at the batteries?

Give up on the ignition controlled wire and run both the yellow and red to the dist block....

Thanks!!

[chpthril]

I ran the ground and the yellow power wire from the head unit to the dist block (along with the ground and power for the relay to start up the amps). The dist block is powered by the second battery with no connection at all to the starting battery.

I may be just mis reading this, but just to clarify: the H/U has 1 BLK ground, and should be connected directly to the Amps Gnd lug, or as it sounds like you did, to the Gnd Dist block.

The H/U's Yellow MEM wire should be connected to the Amp's Pos lug or the Pos Dist block.

The Blue Amp Remote Turn-on needs to be connected to the Amp's Remote Turn-On lug which is typically located between the Pos and Gnd lug.

The power and ground supply for the dist blocks should be connected to the + and - of the new battery. All this being correct, when you turn the key to on (or ACC) the H/U and amp(s) should wake up cause all you did was basically move the power and ground to the 'House' battery. If not, make sure that neither battery is low (below about 11.5 and I doubt they H/U will come on)

Sounds like you just over looked something.

My apologies if the pic is a little elementary

[tige']

I just needed to get the batteries grounded together.

Fired right up after that.

I haven't got to making all the final connections at the battery yet. I just have a deep cycle battery laying in the engine compartment that I wired the amps to.

I will clean that up once I mount a battery tray, clean up the main power wire run, connect the combiner, mount the circuit breaker and combiner, remove the old memory wire and ......I think that's it for the battery! But then I still need to finish the sub box and run the wires up the tower. Getting closer.....