Amp & Sub Location Question

[chpthril]

Series wiring the speakers to an 8-ohm load and then showing that 8-ohm load to a bridged pair will deliver the same power as one wire pair per speaker/ one speaker per amp channel. It is an okay way to go if you can't or do not want to put a wire pair per speaker. Still it is better to wire each speaker back to the amp, and give each speaker its own amp channel.

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Thanks for the clarification, I wasn't sure on the power delivery.

[philwsailz]

Just to be sure on the breaker size, what is the sum of the 3 amp's fusses? This will be the potential load that you need to protect for, this is also the current draw I like to use for the power/ground wire size, less math involved

That is also the recommended practice from the ABYC and the U.S. Coast Guard.

[xpjim1]

If you have the amps, unpack them and look at the side where the power/gnd/rmt wires attach, you will see 2-3 plug-in style ATO auto fuses, just add them up for each amp, then add the total up, example: the SQA-1 may have 2 30a fuses = 60, the 2 SQA-4's may have 2 20A = 40 each - 60+40+40=140A draw.

Again, these amps do not have fuses on the side of the amps. Cadence supplies an external fuse. You need to open the fuse holde and there should be an amp rating on the fuse. At least there was one on mine.

[tige']

Thanks again guys.

Sounds like wiring the speakers independently is the way to go. I will probably still go with 12 gauge wire too.

As far as the fuses, there aren't any in the amp. They each just came with an inline fuse holder. I took the holders apart and pulled the fuses out. They are stamped on the end of the fuse and the SQA-4 fuses are 40 amps and the SQA-1 is 60 amps. So, that's a total of 140 amps. I should be good with the 150 amp circuit breaker.

OK, I am feeling pretty good about everything now except the capacitor. I am not one to return things unless there is something wrong with it, if I ordered in error well that's just my own fault.

With that said, what is the disadvantage of using it? I would have to pick up 2 distribution blocks anyway and they are already built in to this. By the time I pay to ship it back, pay a restocking fee and buy the distribution blocks there won't be a huge difference in money. (I paid less than 1/2 of retail for the cap).

I bought it because it was recommended by someone else and it seemed to make sense at the time. But, you guys have been great I trust your opinions so how big of deal is it. Does it not do me any good just to keep it?

[chpthril]

Again, these amps do not have fuses on the side of the amps. Cadence supplies an external fuse. You need to open the fuse holde and there should be an amp rating on the fuse. At least there was one on mine.

My bad, I misunderstood from your earlier post. All the Cadence ZR series that I have installed, including the one driving my WetSounds XXX had/has fuses plugged in the side, must be the SQA series

SO, to answer Tige's question, the 150A breaker will work at the battery, and use the supplied fuse holder at the amps.

No disadvantage to using the Cap with your system, you really wont see an advantage, so it's just gonna kinda be there. Re-list on ebay as a thought!

[xpjim1]

My bad, I misunderstood from your earlier post. All the Cadence ZR series that I have installed, including the one driving my WetSounds XXX had/has fuses plugged in the side, must be the SQA series

Yea its the new model SQA amps and a few of the FXA amps. Kind of strange, Basically that is why I went with the fused distrubution block.

[chpthril]

Yea its the new model SQA amps and a few of the FXA amps. Kind of strange, Basically that is why I went with the fused distrubution block.

Yep, I think that would be they way to go, for the cleanest looking install. Skip the in-line fuse and use a fused for the POS, and non-fused for the GND, and put them as close to the amps as possible.

[philwsailz]

Most of the time you will see in-line fuses as a cost consideration; they are cheaper than having them hanging out a hole in the end of the amp.

Despite looking clunky, there is a real advantage in the marine world for fuses to be in-line in holders. Fuses mounted in the ends opens up holes that will allow water in.

The best way to do marine electronics is for all the connections to come out of the amp on pigtail wires. Unfortunately it is the ugliest way to do it, and that is why we do not see it more often.

[philwsailz]

Yep, I think that would be they way to go, for the cleanest looking install. Skip the in-line fuse and use a fused for the POS, and non-fused for the GND, and put them as close to the amps as possible.

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[tige']

Oh, what about the hole in the gunwale for the wakeboard tower speaker wires? Should I do anything special about sealing it up or does anyone know of a plug to use?

I plan on using a expandable wire wrap on the exposed wires and grommets in the tower.

Thanks again!

[chpthril]

Oh, what about the hole in the gunwale for the wakeboard tower speaker wires? Should I do anything special about sealing it up or does anyone know of a plug to use?

I plan on using a expandable wire wrap on the exposed wires and grommets in the tower.

Thanks again!

What boat and tower do you have, some model towers can have the wires fished completely through the tower and totally concealed.

Waytech wire makes a wire pass-thru bushing http://order.waytekwire.com/products/M37/230/200/300/1

There is also another pass-thru that it more like a socket, but I cant find the link for it right now, i'll keep looking.

http://www.sealcon.net/nysrf.htm

Pic: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...25&postcount=6