Custom 12" L7 Box Questions

[Dan and Christy]

I have a beautiful MTX Thunder 7500 with box and a matching amp, Kicker 400.1. Let me know.

[chpthril]

Amps (really looking for a 700.5), sub, and a set of kicker 620.2 components

Rushin,

PM sent!

[Bad05]

Since my new Syn6 Amps don't really work with my speaker combination it has been suggested to me that I need to sell the Syn6 amps (x2) and purchase (x1) Syn2 and (x2) Syn4 amps instead. If someone is interested in the Syn6 amps, I will consider a price. My other option is to keep them and be happy with the set-up until I can afford to make the changes. They have been used 3 days, 2 of which were the Reunion last weekend! PM me if interested.

[evil0ne]

Since my new Syn6 Amps don't really work with my speaker combination it has been suggested to me that I need to sell the Syn6 amps (x2) and purchase (x1) Syn2 and (x2) Syn4 amps instead. If someone is interested in the Syn6 amps, I will consider a price. My other option is to keep them and be happy with the set-up until I can afford to make the changes. They have been used 3 days, 2 of which were the Reunion last weekend! PM me if interested.

If you bought them from Wetsounds, call them and see if they'll take them back and credit/charge you the difference.

[chpthril]

Since my new Syn6 Amps don't really work with my speaker combination it has been suggested to me that I need to sell the Syn6 amps (x2) and purchase (x1) Syn2 and (x2) Syn4 amps instead. If someone is interested in the Syn6 amps, I will consider a price. My other option is to keep them and be happy with the set-up until I can afford to make the changes. They have been used 3 days, 2 of which were the Reunion last weekend! PM me if interested.

Not to get into anyones business or step on toes, but have you talked to Tim or John Gyver @ Wet Sounds about your setup? Hate to see you go through the trouble of swapping Amps and spending more money.

[Bad05]

Not to get into anyones business or step on toes, but have you talked to Tim or John Gyver @ Wet Sounds about your setup? Hate to see you go through the trouble of swapping Amps and spending more money.

They gave me suggestions on how to use the existin gamps, but having that much money in speakers that are only being half powered is kind of a waste. That's why I figured if I could sell them I would get the Syn2/4 amps and make it work to it's full potential. If they don't sell I have them hooked up and working, but for those of you who were at the Reunion.....they just aren't sufficient!

[chpthril]

They gave me suggestions on how to use the existin gamps, but having that much money in speakers that are only being half powered is kind of a waste. That's why I figured if I could sell them I would get the Syn2/4 amps and make it work to it's full potential. If they don't sell I have them hooked up and working, but for those of you who were at the Reunion.....they just aren't sufficient!

PM sent

[evil0ne]

Not to get into anyones business or step on toes, but have you talked to Tim or John Gyver @ Wet Sounds about your setup? Hate to see you go through the trouble of swapping Amps and spending more money.

Yeah, that is where I was going with it too. I don't know who sold him the amps in the first place thinking they were adequate (I'm not sure they aren't, just trusting John has read over all of the specs and wiring possibilities) but I'm sure that Tim/anyone working at WetSounds would swap the amps for the correct amps +/- the difference instead of trying to sell them and potentially losing more money.

[Bad05]

The amps were good until I added the second 485. hchanged the entire setup and in order to keep everything evenly powered I need to switch them out with 2 Syn4s, 1 Syn2 and a Syn1. I have been in contact with WS but didn't ask about swapping them. I'm not sure this will be a change for the fall but will definitely be making the change by spring. Right now the 485s are just way under powered and get drowned out by the Pro80s. I have no idea of how to mount the 4 amps in there so that will be my next problem if and when I make the change. Thanks for all the input and ideas!

[Dan and Christy]

With Phil being very busy at the show, I thought I would post a few more questions about the building the new box. The weather is supposed to be very boating prohibitive this weekend so this would be the perfect time to get going on the new box.

I have removed both the L7 and the 7500. I have finally decided to leave the 7500 out completely.

1. Should I mount the L7 in the same fashion that the 7500 was? If you remember, it was mounted with the woofer exposed in the bulkhead under the drivers helm with a sealed box on the back side. Don't worry, the box will be ported.

Although, if I build a ported box and put it IN that compartment as opposed to mounting in the bulkhead, the existing 13"X13" hole in the bulkhead would take the place of the two 5" holes that Phil mentioned earlier. Hmmmm.

2. What diameter port should I go with. I remember Phil stating the the length should be twice the diameter but I can't find anything about the diameter.

3. After much research, I think the ZX1500.1 is the only amp that will push the L7 properly right?

4. For the actual box material, will 3/4" MDF suffice? I think Jim, XPJim, used the truck bed liner to cover his box. I like that idea, is there anything wrong with going that route?

5. One more. If I increase the size of the cutout in the bulkhead to 15 1/2" X 15 1/2" I can build a box that will be 2.27 cu ft. Internal dimensions of 20X14X14. Does anyone see a problem with cutting the bulkhead to increase the opening size?

6. I lied, one more. In another thread, someone stated that you must subtract the voicecoil/magnet assembly from the air volume equation. Is this correct?

[chpthril]

4. For the actual box material, will 3/4" MDF suffice? I think Jim, XPJim, used the truck bed liner to cover his box. I like that idea, is there anything wrong with going that route?

Here is a thread about getting some tips about working with MDF. I've been using the bedliner and have gotten the best results with using a good coat of primmer first. The cut edges of the MDF like to soak up the liner and have a different look and texture then the uncut flat sides, the primer helps with this. 3/4" MDF seems to be the way to go.

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8344

5. One more. If I increase the size of the cutout in the bulkhead to 15 1/2" X 15 1/2" I can build a box that will be 2.27 cu ft. Internal dimensions of 20X14X14. Does anyone see a problem with cutting the bulkhead to increase the opening size?

Here is a thread of mine where I put a CVR12 and a sealed box in an RZ2. I see nothing wrong with enlarging the hole.

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7941

6. I lied, one more. In another thread, someone stated that you must subtract the voicecoil/magnet assembly from the air volume equation. Is this correct?

You do need to take this into account. I dont know the best way to figure it yet, but on my few boxes, I've shot for the middle + side of the recommended box volume w/o subtracting the volume of the sub.

1. Should I mount the L7 in the same fashion that the 7500 was? If you remember, it was mounted with the woofer exposed in the bulkhead under the drivers helm with a sealed box on the back side. Don't worry, the box will be ported.

Although, if I build a ported box and put it IN that compartment as opposed to mounting in the bulkhead, the existing 13"X13" hole in the bulkhead would take the place of the two 5" holes that Phil mentioned earlier. Hmmmm.

I would as the bulkhead will act as one side of the box.

3. After much research, I think the ZX1500.1 is the only amp that will push the L7 properly right?

Agree

[Dan and Christy]

Thanks for coming through Mike

[chpthril]

Here is xpjim's stereo thread with his custom box on the last couple of pages

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5973

[Dan and Christy]

With a box similar to Jim's, does it really matter where the port is located?

[chpthril]

Although, if I build a ported box and put it IN that compartment as opposed to mounting in the bulkhead, the existing 13"X13" hole in the bulkhead would take the place of the two 5" holes that Phil mentioned earlier. Hmmmm.

?

If you go this route, i've got a low-profile grill to cover the existing sub hole, it's yours for the shipping only.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=280274716628