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    #16
    Originally posted by Dan and Christy View Post
    Another question, I can't seem to find a consensus on the size of a ported box for the L7. Any suggestions?

    And yet another, I think I am starving the L7 for power, any good suggestions on an amp? I believe it is 750 RMS.

    I am getting ready for the winter projects and want to get my crap in line before diving in and tearing stuff apart.
    www.kicker.com has the answer. If you go there, you can download an owner's manual. The manual gives good advice with regards to min and max enclosure sizes for a vented box, and for enclosure and port design.

    Typically there is an appropriate range for ported enclosures. Bigger boxes tune flatter acoustically, and the ports can be shorter, (it is a Helmholz Resonator thing, long explanation) when compared with smaller vented boxes, which require longer ports to get to the same fb, (enclosure resonant tuning).

    For the S12L7 woofer you have, the range of vented box size goes from 1.75 to 3.25 cubic feet.

    On the amplifier side of things, I need to ask a question: Do you have the dual 2-ohm coil version of the woofer, or the dual 4-ohm version of the woofer?
    It's not an optical illusion.
    It just looks like one.....

    Comment


      #17
      First, thanks for clarifying the port to the sidewall question.

      I must check the sub itself to determine if it is the dual 2-ohm coil version, shoot I have to wait until after work to get that answer.

      Comment


        #18
        What is the current enclosure's volume? I.e. how big is it? We maybe can work together here to find a good set of dinensions for the new one. Got any pics?
        It's not an optical illusion.
        It just looks like one.....

        Comment


          #19
          I would say it is in the range of either 16"X16"X16" to 18"X18"X18" probably closer to the 18"....I know this gives a 1 cu ft difference. I'll take actual measurements tonight and post a few photos.

          If I yank out the box tonight what do I need to do with the exposed wires? Just put some electrical tape or wire nuts on them?

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by Dan and Christy View Post
            I would say it is in the range of either 16"X16"X16" to 18"X18"X18" probably closer to the 18"....I know this gives a 1 cu ft difference. I'll take actual measurements tonight and post a few photos.

            If I yank out the box tonight what do I need to do with the exposed wires? Just put some electrical tape or wire nuts on them?
            If you tape or wire nut the wires, it will be safe. If there was a dedicated sub amp on he woofer, and running nothing else, you could disconnect the blue turn on lead from the amp; that would prevent it from turning on...
            It's not an optical illusion.
            It just looks like one.....

            Comment


              #21
              I think the sub is being powered by the 400.1, although I also have a 700.5. I am not sure which amp is powering which sub. (boy I sound like a tool).

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by Dan and Christy View Post
                I think the sub is being powered by the 400.1, although I also have a 700.5. I am not sure which amp is powering which sub. (boy I sound like a tool).
                Easy, they are both leaving your subs thirsty for more
                Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                  #23
                  X2. I agree with Mike

                  If the L7 is a dual-4-ohm you will want to use a ZX750.1

                  If it is a dual-2-ohm you will want to use a ZX1500.1 or you can use the ZX850.2 and connect one coil per each amp channel.

                  Hopefully you have the dual-4-ohm; it will allow you to use the digital ZX750.1 and save some coin.

                  I know a good person to check with when it is time to buy it too... He hangs out in here some...
                  It's not an optical illusion.
                  It just looks like one.....

                  Comment


                    #24
                    HA! I have a sneaking suspicion I know who you are referring to.

                    I can't wait to get home tonight and pull the box out of the compartment.

                    I can't thank you guys enough for the help!!!!

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by philwsailz View Post
                      X2. I agree with Mike

                      If the L7 is a dual-4-ohm you will want to use a ZX750.1

                      If it is a dual-2-ohm you will want to use a ZX1500.1 or you can use the ZX850.2 and connect one coil per each amp channel.

                      Hopefully you have the dual-4-ohm; it will allow you to use the digital ZX750.1 and save some coin.

                      I know a good person to check with when it is time to buy it too... He hangs out in here some...
                      I was able to take the box out of the compartment and have a few pieces of information. It appears to be the dual-2-ohm, I've attached the pictures. If they aren't legible, the model looks to be 06S12L7(2).

                      It looks like the sub is connected to the "sub" portion of the 700.5. It sure seems to be under powered. I will take complete responsibility for the wrong sub. When I had the sub and box added, I had a budget to work with and it now appears that I 100% should NOT have skimmped on the amp.

                      The 12" MTX looks to be the Thunder 7500. I didn't follow the wires back to the amps but since the L7 appears to be connected to the 700.5 I would presume the MTX is connected to the 400.1

                      I think the largest box I can fit into the middle compartment will be 21" wide by 11" tall. The length will be the variable in order to make the necessary volume.

                      The existing box is 20"X20"X16". If you subtract the thickness of the material, it equates to 18"X18"X14" = 2.625 cu ft. So....with the 21" and 11" perameters, the new box will need to be 28.5" long.

                      Does any of this make sense?
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by Dan and Christy View Post
                        I was able to take the box out of the compartment and have a few pieces of information. It appears to be the dual-2-ohm, I've attached the pictures. If they aren't legible, the model looks to be 06S12L7(2).

                        It looks like the sub is connected to the "sub" portion of the 700.5. It sure seems to be under powered. I will take complete responsibility for the wrong sub. When I had the sub and box added, I had a budget to work with and it now appears that I 100% should NOT have skimmped on the amp.

                        The 12" MTX looks to be the Thunder 7500. I didn't follow the wires back to the amps but since the L7 appears to be connected to the 700.5 I would presume the MTX is connected to the 400.1

                        I think the largest box I can fit into the middle compartment will be 21" wide by 11" tall. The length will be the variable in order to make the necessary volume.

                        The existing box is 20"X20"X16". If you subtract the thickness of the material, it equates to 18"X18"X14" = 2.625 cu ft. So....with the 21" and 11" perameters, the new box will need to be 28.5" long.

                        Does any of this make sense?
                        Totally, your methodology is on-the-money for the new enclosure design. You should be able to use the old port in the new box. Do not cut the tubing for length; install it just the way it is. Make sure that the depth inside the box is greater than the length of the port tube by its diameter. i.e. if it is a 3" diameter tube, make sure the end inside the box is at least 3 inches away from the enclosure wall.

                        On the woofer side, you probably have that S12L72 wired so that the amp is putting out only about 210 watts currently. Yawn,...it can use more power. If you use that same woofer, you will want to use either the ZX850.2 or the ZX750.1 as we shared yesterday.

                        If you were able to swap your woofer for an S12L74, you could get 420 watts out of your existing amp, or if you were buying a new amp, the ZX750.1 would be ideal. All this IF you can swap for a S12L74. Actually, you might be able to buy a new S12L74 and a ZX750.1 for about the price of a ZX1500.1.... Something to consider...

                        Zat all clear? What did I miss?

                        I think you are on track with your new enclosure design, so sally forth, and let us know if you hit any snags...
                        It's not an optical illusion.
                        It just looks like one.....

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Here is a thought............You've got 2 huge subs that are starving for juice, what about this - pull the 700.5 out and replace it with a 350.4 to drive the current interior's. Then go with 1 or 2 chnl amp to drive both subs with the kinda power they need. You should be able to get a few bucks for a nearly new 700.5
                          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                          Comment


                            #28
                            good suggestion...
                            It's not an optical illusion.
                            It just looks like one.....

                            Comment


                              #29
                              uhhh...

                              REAL good suggestion. If the MTX were dual-2-ohm or single-4-ohm, the two could be paralleled to a single mono amp. The digital amps are more efficient....
                              It's not an optical illusion.
                              It just looks like one.....

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by chpthril View Post
                                Here is a thought............You've got 2 huge subs that are starving for juice, what about this - pull the 700.5 out and replace it with a 350.4 to drive the current interior's. Then go with 1 or 2 chnl amp to drive both subs with the kinda power they need. You should be able to get a few bucks for a nearly new 700.5
                                Alright, stay with me if can handle a few new questions.

                                The 350.4 is a 4 channel amp. I currently have 6 each 6 1/2's plus the seperate tweeters in the cabin as well as 2 each 8" mid-bass. Add to that the 4 each 6 1/2's on the tower. So, is the 350.4 enough for all those speakers?

                                I am not as concerned about powering up the tower with a ton of juice this year because I am working on new Wetsounds sometime next season.

                                As far as the MTX Thunder 7500, isn't the 400.1 matched up perfectly with each at 400 watts RMS?

                                Comment

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