Cheap alluminum wire?

[talltigeguy]

So I am considering upgrading the wiring system to my amplifiers.

Knukonceptz has a few different types of wires. The cheapest has alluminum in it. The maximum amperage is just minimally less.

The alluminum is about half the price. It would seem that I don't have to worry about oxidation with the alluminum wire.

Another web source brags...'not cheap alluminum wire'...

So why not go alluminum?

This is the wire I am referring to: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...y=KLMX%20Kable

It is actually copper clad alluminum, but nonetheless it is mostly alluminum.

[chpthril]

I've used that same wire on a couple of installs and dont see a reason not to. Phil, Tim, or Spharis may have a more scientific answer, but for me it's all about proper current flow handling, choose the right size for the job.

[dogbert]

Aluminum heats up more than copper.

[da.bell]

Aluminum can dissipates heat very well if proper flow channels are made. Reason why they put aluminum heatsinks on top of CPU's in computers.

[dogbert]

Aluminum can dissipates heat very well if proper flow channels are made. Reason why they put aluminum heatsinks on top of CPU's in computers.

Wiring's a different story. That's why you don't want wiring to be aluminum, especially for power. Speaker wires do heat up if they're not big enough.

[da.bell]

Now that you say that, why aluminum wire? I think Phil needs to answer some of this. Not sure that aluminum wire is the best type of material to transfer signals from one device to another. There are so many other products that are far better. Gold for example (I know, very expensive but definitely better than aluminum).

[da.bell]

Phil would be happy.. Try these.

http://www.ubid.com/Kicker_05S127_Pr...a11281702.html

[philwsailz]

Aluminum is a good thermal conductor and is a reasonable enough electrical conductor, but not as good as copper.

There was a huge guff in the manufactuered houisng industry a few years ago with regards to aluminum wiring. The specific issue that was presented was corrosion, and resistance heating as a result. That is the place where it got its really bad rap.

Every piece of bare aluminum you see has a layer of oxide on its surface. This layer covers the pure metal and prevents further oxidation. The problem is that this aluminum oxide is a very poor electrical conductor. When using all-aluminum wiring, you have to remove the oxide layer, and then quickly make the electrical connection, prior to the oxide reforming.

Bad connection practices gave rise to the fires that were a problem in the manufactured housing. Many of the connections that were made turned into little electrical resistance heaters, as a result of the presence of oxide in the connection.

Copper cladding is a good solution to prevent the issues caused by aluminum's oxide layer. Still, it is a compromise, and one to be aware of. I would seriously consider trying the next size larger wire gage than recommended with the clad aluminum, and then make a financial analysis, comparing the larger conductor aluminum wire against spec'd conductor size 100% copper cable and make a financial judgement based on that.

[talltigeguy]

Thanks for the input, Phil.

I noticed that the alluminum wire is rated 250 Amps (1/0 size), and the same sized copper wire is rated for 300 Amps. FWIW. I don't think my system as it stands now will draw more than that, for more than a few seconds anyway.

[philwsailz]

Thanks for the input, Phil.

I noticed that the alluminum wire is rated 250 Amps (1/0 size), and the same sized copper wire is rated for 300 Amps. FWIW. I don't think my system as it stands now will draw more than that, for more than a few seconds anyway.

You will in all likelihood be just fine.

One thing to realize with audio wiring is that it is not a constant load, from a power-standpoint. The fuse sizing and manufacturer recommendations for wire size are based on the worst-case scenario of constant full-tilt boogy operation at max voltage and current.

Due to the logarithmic (Sp?) RMS nature of music, your wiring will typically see only half or less of full-tilt boogy. With voltage being more or less constant, your amp will oprate at a current consumption much less than the peak current the wiring is designed to handle for most of the time.

You are not a fan of sitting around listening to pure sinewave tones at max volume, right? I assume not...

That is one scenario where pure copper would be better, as well as dB Drag Racing, but something tells me you do not fit either category.

[dogbert]

I noticed that the alluminum wire is rated 250 Amps (1/0 size), and the same sized copper wire is rated for 300 Amps. FWIW. I don't think my system as it stands now will draw more than that, for more than a few seconds anyway.

If it does, then you'll need a generator

Phil, as always, great info! Thanks!

[Fast1911]

Many of the points stated above are accurate. I would personally stay away from aluminum wire due to many bad experiences in the field with utility companies and there aluminum wiring. It tends to heat up over time and create a loose connection after while. I know we are talking about stereo wiring but if you can afford copper wiring I would use that.

[Jason B]

Thanks for the input, Phil.

I noticed that the alluminum wire is rated 250 Amps (1/0 size), and the same sized copper wire is rated for 300 Amps. FWIW. I don't think my system as it stands now will draw more than that, for more than a few seconds anyway.

You're running it through 150 amp fuses or cicuit breakers anyway--it won't hit 250 amps or you're popping a fuse anyhow. I have some of that same wire (about 60ft) in my boat and never noticed any heat what-so-ever. I also have the "premium" JL wire at 6$/ft---it all does the same thing.

[talltigeguy]

You're running it through 150 amp fuses or cicuit breakers anyway--it won't hit 250 amps or you're popping a fuse anyhow. I have some of that same wire (about 60ft) in my boat and never noticed any heat what-so-ever. I also have the "premium" JL wire at 6$/ft---it all does the same thing.

I have two amps and would plan on putting a 100 amp fuse in both of them at the distribution block. I just went to BCAE1.com and it has a chart based on the wattage and size of wire and length. I don't think I would pop the 100 amp fuse with normal stereo usage unless something is very wrong.

[xpjim1]

I used that stuff and have not had a problem with it. Everthing else was an issue though