Power Run Question--Safety Concern

[Jeff T]

Ok, so I bet everyone is tired of my ws420 questions. Well, I've got one more for you. I got the install started today and I ran into a dilimma. Tim posted that I should run ground/power from the unit directly back to the battery.

Here is my dilmma: I can run the power and ground wires from the cockpit, around the bow, through the port side dry storage, and back to the batteries. Despite requiring more wire, this is the easist route. However, do so requires me to run the power wire into the area exposed to water the easiest...the bow. I have a bow sack, which could leak, and if I were to take a roller over the bow, the entire front section of the boat is wet. I'm worried that the sheath could get damaged by the fiberglass as I run it around the boat.

Is this safe? My other option is to run the wire from the cockpit, behind the starboard side panel, and around the stern, behind the motor, and back to the battery on the port side. This seems safer, but is a much more difficult operation due to the lack of space in the stern and the starboard panel (where the throttle is) that is difficult to maneuver. I have the factory ballast, so I have hard tanks in the rear.

I would love to hear some opinions on this!

[xpjim1]

You can run it around the bow. Put it in a wire loom. On my 24V I had speaker wires aready running and attached in a loom pretty high . I just zip tied my new wires to the existing loom.

A long those lines, If I have a distribution block under the glove box for my amps, can I draw my power and ground off of those blocks instead of running back to the battery for a ws 420. It ends up at the same spot but a shorter run?

[chpthril]

If you are worried about wire damage due to chaffing, put the wire in some 1/4" loom.

www.waytekwire.com has a 100' box for $10 + shipping.

[chpthril]

You can run it around the bow. Put it in a wire loom. On my 24V I had speaker wires aready running and attached in a loom pretty high . I just zip tied my new wires to the existing loom.

A long those lines, If I have a distribution block under the glove box for my amps, can I draw my power and ground off of those blocks instead of running back to the battery for a ws 420. It ends up at the same spot but a shorter run?

That's what I would do, I dont see anything wrong with it, but I would like to hear Tim or Phil's opinion.

[philwsailz]

That's what I would do, I dont see anything wrong with it, but I would like to hear Tim or Phil's opinion.

Tim should address this too, since we are talking about the ws420, but I think he will agree. If in fact there is a really good source of power from a distribution block that is tied straight to the battery that is a great place, especially if it is where the amps are getting their power... It places the ws420 power connections right at the same power and ground plane as the amps. It should result in the quietest installation from a noise standpoint.

[Jeff T]

If this is ok'd by Tim, I'm ok with doing for sure. I have a 3 4-guage to 1 0-gauge block for power and the same for ground. I have 1 free 4 gauge port in each block. Would i just use this despite using 18 guage wire, or share with a port that has 4 gauge for an amp?

[evil0ne]

I'd just shove it in one of the already used openings so you get a good contact with that small of a wire.

[spharis]

I would go all the way back to the battery. Reading postings on the web, many have had ground loop once installing the WS420. The solution is always to run power for ALL audio components back to the battery to establish the best possible current. If you use a shared switch or wire in the distro, expect to either have loop or invest in a ground loop isolator....maybe a couple.

I do this on any stereos I wire and I rarely have ground loop problems. I only tie my turn ons to switches. The main power and ground go back to the battery, especially the ground.

As far as worry: don't. You have slim to no chance of anything happening from the wire getting wet as long as you use marine grade wire. There are numerous other items in your boat that would be damaged just as easy or over time. Even if the wire chafes, there is little chance of problems. One good (or bad) thing about marine is that the entire chassis isn't grounded, so if a wire chafes it is highly unlikely it even makes current on anything although there should be some form of fusing a very long run just to prevent over current.

[buffman]

I responded to your PM as well...

[Jeff T]

I have Stinger wire. I'm not sure if that is marine grade or not, but I figured it was better quality than what I could find down at the local Radio Shack or Wal-Mart.

The 420 has a fuse on the power run about 3 or 4 inches from the unit. I take it this will suffice?

[tri_slarson]

I would suggest putting the fuse as close to the battery as possible. This way if the wire does short out on something the fuse will blow.

[Jeff T]

What size fuse do I need to use for this application?

[wetsounds1]

Sorry I have been out. Most use a large dist block and tie it in there. As long as you are sharing the same power and grounds for all the amps, the eq, and the radio. You should not have any loops. This issue usually happens as most use the factory ground block. And do not re do the factory radio. Best and easiest bet is to use a high quality dist block for all power and all grounds. And a solid run of large enough ga wire back to the batteries. If you do run into some noise. Then you can run some power and ground direct back to the batteries for each item, such as the eq then the radio. But if there is solid wire and as long as all the items are sharing the same power and ground source. Should be fine. Anytime you have long runs, it is a good idea to run a fuse by the battery. So if you run the eq and radio back, the ws 420 is a 3 amp, so that will be what to use.

Tim
Wet Sounds

[Jeff T]

I have not re-run the power/ground for the HU. I need to do this...but I have a stupid question. From the factory, where does the power/ground for the HU run to? I actually thought it was already ran back to the battery.

[chpthril]

I have not re-run the power/ground for the HU. I need to do this...but I have a stupid question. From the factory, where does the power/ground for the HU run to? I actually thought it was already ran back to the battery.

Power comes from the ACC position on the key switch.

Not 100% on the ground, but I'll bet it is on the BUSS bar under the dash.

What head unit do you have? The CMD4's have a cooling fan that runs if the power wire is run to B+