Wiring WS-420

[Jeff T]

I got my 420 in and i'm preping for the install. For those who own this unit, I was curious how you wired it up.

1-Am I supposed to run the power and ground wires back to the battery by tapping into the leads off the unit, slapping on terminal ends, and running back to battery?
1A: If not, how should I power and ground? I was trying to avoid tapping into wires in the dash if possible.
2: Should tap into the head unit remote wire or daisy chain off my last amp in the series?

Any advice is really appreciated.

[wetsounds1]

Jeff,

Yes you should run power and ground from the EQ all the way back to the batteries. You should connect them to the same battery that you have the amps off of. You should also re run new power and ground for the radio to this same spot. Make sure all grounds are at the same point.

Run a relay on the remote wire from the head unit to the remote on the eq. This will make sure you do not have any pops when the radio is telling the eq and amps to turn on.

It is always best to run all new wires and not tap into any factory wires as you can pick up noise from the other electronics when you tap in.

If you get stuck, call my office 877-938-7757 and ask for Gyver and he can help you

Tim
Wet Sounds

[buffman]

Tim will this cause a hissing in the speakers as well?
My eq is wired directly into the amps power not back to the batteries them selves.
And my system along with a few other (dieselpwr and airjorgy now) all have a slight "whitenoise" coming from all speakers and I am convinced it is the eq wiring etc...
Corey from WWS has a call into you guys as well....

[wetsounds1]

We have found that the hiss is a combination of install errors. Everything from the wiring in the boat, the rca's used, having the gains up too high, the mic volume up too high, the eq adjsutments up too high and no signal present. And all of these at once. Plus add to that compression speakers that are more efficient. We had people that said that had noise send them in and we tested them and have found no issues with the eq's themself.

If the wiring is correct and all good rca's and good grounds. All grounds for stereo back to the batteries. All power back to the battery. Gains on eq set below half way. Matched at the amps. EQ's all in middle. And mic down. Then listen to it. You will not have any noise. Once you start cranking things up. And you have no signal present. The eq is trying to boost the signal. Which is not there. So with everything boosted but not signal, it doesn't know what to do so it is boosting whatever small amount of noise is present. So taking the time to make sure all the wiring is good and the rca's are high quality and further understanding what a line driver does. Will help everyone understand what is going on with the system.

Buff, I think you may need to just run the power and ground back to the battery. Make sure to also run the head unit there as well. Make sure your gains are all matched and it is not too hot. And then test it like I mentioned with everything flat and see. The moment you get any type of signal, it is fine.

Tim
Wet Sounds

[buffman]

Thanks Tim super customer service as always I will get with WWS and go from there...thanks again!

[Jeff T]

Thanks for the info!!

[Jeff T]

Tim,
The lead wires (ground, power, & remote) coming out of the EQ are labeled with 22 AWG 600v 105 degrees C.

How important is it that I find 600v @ 105 degrees? I'm having a hard enough time finding 22 gauge wire as it is and what I have found has not been 600v nor 105 degrees. Will any 22awg wire do?

Thanks!

[chpthril]

Tim,
The lead wires (ground, power, & remote) coming out of the EQ are labeled with 22 AWG 600v 105 degrees C.

How important is it that I find 600v @ 105 degrees? I'm having a hard enough time finding 22 gauge wire as it is and what I have found has not been 600v nor 105 degrees. Will any 22awg wire do?

Thanks!

I dont see any reason why you cant use 18ga primary wire.

[wetsounds1]

I usually use 18 ga or 16 ga for eq and radio runs etc. Don't worry about trying to match the wire specs. Just use a good high quality wire.

Tim
Wet Sounds+

[Jeff T]

Thanks.

[Jeff T]

Quick Question:

I have the CDM4, which has 3 sets of outputs:
-Grey: Front Line Level (Full Range)
-Black: Rear Line Level (Full Range)
-Purple: Non-Fadeable Line Level (Full Range)

There is only one input to the 420. Which of the above do i need to run the single set of RCAs from?

Thanks.

[chpthril]

Quick Question:

I have the CDM4, which has 3 sets of outputs:
-Grey: Front Line Level (Full Range)
-Black: Rear Line Level (Full Range)
-Purple: Non-Fadeable Line Level (Full Range)

There is only one input to the 420. Which of the above do i need to run the single set of RCAs from?

Thanks.

Shooting from the hip here as I have not installed one, YET, but I think either would work, but I would go with the Non-Fade, as the EQ will let you fade the tower, cabin, and sub (if on it's own amp) as you need. That's what I would do, but lets see what the experts say

[Jeff T]

I have one additional question.

I have 3 amps: Kicker ZX 650.4 (bridged for tower), 350.4 (deck), and 750.1 (sub). Both of the two multi channel amps (650.4 and 350.4) have 2 amps (amp 1 and amp 2). Right now, I have the single input(s) from the HU split into amp 1 and amp 2 using a regular RCA splitter. This is the case for both the 650.4 and 350.4. Have I done the right thing?

[chpthril]

I have one additional question.

I have 3 amps: Kicker ZX 650.4 (bridged for tower), 350.4 (deck), and 750.1 (sub). Both of the two multi channel amps (650.4 and 350.4) have 2 amps (amp 1 and amp 2). Right now, I have the single input(s) from the HU split into amp 1 and amp 2 using a regular RCA splitter. This is the case for both the 650.4 and 350.4. Have I done the right thing?

The ZX series amps should only need 1 set of RCA's going into them, so you really dont need the splitter.

[spharis]

Have I done the right thing?

Check with phil. There was an instance of that not working correctly recently.