And Yet another WETSOUNDS install

[dogbert]

you dont have to use 2" screws

I was going to recommend using lag bolts, you know the kind you use on your deck

[Ks]

You've inspired me to look into an audio upgrade so I've got a couple questions about your install.

#1 - For the down firing sub, is there a big hole cut into the floor under that box so that it actually moves the air under there or is it firing directly ON to the floor? I ask because I have no idea what's under the floor in the spot I'd need to cut my hole. Could be a stringer, might be nothing.

#2 - How are y'all mounting those amps to the side wall of the storage? I can just see me running screws through the side of the boat because I don't know how to do it.

Bill

Cool, glad the pics inspired you. I have been totally happy with the system so far. We have had it out on the water twice so far to tune it and it is exactly what I wanted performance wise.

The music plays loud and clear all day long. The bass is unreal, in fact we have the subs turned down to keep the boat in one piece

We have finished the trim pieces now for the amp, just have to remember to take pics.

As for questions:


1) No hole in the floor, the box sits 2 inches off the ground in a suspended state, this is not all for sub travel, it is more to allow water to safely pass through if we take a big wave over the bow. The box itself from the bottom side is recessed up 2.5 inches ( stepped up) to allow the sub to travel down.

2) That is a amp rack that we made, it is attached at the bottom and the top with a few L shaped brackets at the bottom, the top is a friction fit, because the board is at a angle, it kinda just locks in there.

Enjoy the build

[Ks]

On the Downfire Korgae.... how many watts are you putting to it? The reason I ask, is are you not concerned that at full excursion your sub could be slamming into the floor?

I'm not familiar with those subs yet so I don't know how much excursion they have. Maybe 2" is fine... I usually like to see 4 or 5.

Hi Tanner,

Each sub is getting just under 400 watts via a Hertz HP2. I chose this amp as when pushed ( its not being pushed right now) it will easily handle a XXX if I decide to try one of those out in the future.

In the post to hammer I explained how the box is designed to site 2 inches off the floor and is stepped up 2.5 inches to allow for sub travel, so a total of 4.5 inches of travel. To be honest, we have not checked to see.

[Tanner]

With 4.5 to 5" you've got plenty of travel. I didn't realize you had it recessed more than the 2 you stated. You're good to go there.

[Hammer]

you dont have to use 2" screws

Well if I can't use the 2" ones I guess I'll just go for the 4.5" ones and what ever pops out I'll pound flat with a hammer

[Hammer]

Cool, glad the pics inspired you. I have been totally happy with the system so far. We have had it out on the water twice so far to tune it and it is exactly what I wanted performance wise.

The music plays loud and clear all day long. The bass is unreal, in fact we have the subs turned down to keep the boat in one piece

We have finished the trim pieces now for the amp, just have to remember to take pics.

As for questions:


1) No hole in the floor, the box sits 2 inches off the ground in a suspended state, this is not all for sub travel, it is more to allow water to safely pass through if we take a big wave over the bow. The box itself from the bottom side is recessed up 2.5 inches ( stepped up) to allow the sub to travel down.

2) That is a amp rack that we made, it is attached at the bottom and the top with a few L shaped brackets at the bottom, the top is a friction fit, because the board is at a angle, it kinda just locks in there.

Enjoy the build

Thanks, that helps a lot. I'm going to get started as soon as I get the tower on it.