Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Part Numbers and Source for Isolator and Perko

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #76
    Ok here is how I see it:

    Isolator will have the alt feed only going to the Alt/Comm post, B1 going to 1 battery, B2 going to 2nd.

    ^ You need to make sure that ONLY the Alt output is attached to the Iso Alt/Comm and nothing else as they will not have power except when the engine is running. You may need to physically follow that wire from the alt to the Iso to be sure.

    Perko: "Starting" battery to B1, "House" to B2, starter cable to Comm.

    Deep-cycle GND will run from the Neg (-) post on the deep-cycle to the Neg (-) post on the "Starting" battery.

    Take the Original factory ON/OFF and add it on the factory ground (neg/-) in between the "Starter" battery and engine block. This will give you a simple way to disconnect both batteries from thier loads for winter storage.

    Ok, that was the easy part The next step will take some time, patience, and a little detective work, but in the end, it will pay off as you will have a simple system that is a no brain'r while on the water.

    You will need to separate all the electrical loads and place them to the appropriate battery.
    "Starting" battery: Engine management only.

    "House" battery: Stereo/Amps, Nav lights, Blower, Bilge, Horn, Etc.
    Attached Files
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

    Comment


      #77
      I understrand what you are suggesting but to seperate all the looms into engine and house functions is not something I want to tackle at this point.

      I have an idea or two that will not require as much work but I need to see if I can source the parts I am thinking about that will handle the load. If I figure it out I will post.

      There has to be a way of electrically connecting the Alt lead to one of the batts when not running and only have it connected to isolater when running. Some sort of threshold switch to trigger a relay to swap alternator over is what I am contemplating.

      Since I don't want to chase all the various power runs to the distribnution blocks I am going to eliminate the ISO for now and use the Perko switch when anchored.

      Tommorrow night I will cleanup the wiring and hopefully get it all pretty for pictures. ISO will not be used in this pass.

      Thanks Mike for the ideas and help.
      Last edited by Guest; 04-22-2008, 12:35 AM.

      Comment


        #78
        The Blue Sea ACR might be a solution where it looks like it will charge both banks while one bank is hooked to load. I need to do more reading about it but looking at the Blue Sea supplied Diagram it looks like it might do what I need.

        I don't mind switching between Bat 1 & 2 while at sandbar or anchored listening to tunes if I have a device that allows Banks to be charged seperately. More research when mind is not numb on pain killers

        Comment


          #79
          Originally posted by 1Lab_trainer View Post
          I understrand what you are suggesting but to seperate all the looms into engine and house functions is not something I want to tackle at this point.

          I have an idea or two that will not require as much work but I need to see if I can source the parts I am thinking about that will handle the load. If I figure it out I will post.

          There has to be a way of electrically connecting the Alt lead to one of the batts when not running and only have it connected to isolater when running. Some sort of threshold switch to trigger a relay to swap alternator over is what I am contemplating.

          Since I don't want to chase all the various power runs to the distribnution blocks I am going to eliminate the ISO for now and use the Perko switch when anchored.

          Tommorrow night I will cleanup the wiring and hopefully get it all pretty for pictures. ISO will not be used in this pass.

          Thanks Mike for the ideas and help.
          Sorry, didn't mean for it to sound like you needed to pull harnesses apart. Everything you need is right there from the original battery. All you need to do is put the propor electrical load, on the correct battery, should not need to pull any loom apart.

          Originally posted by 1Lab_trainer View Post
          The Blue Sea ACR might be a solution where it looks like it will charge both banks while one bank is hooked to load. I need to do more reading about it but looking at the Blue Sea supplied Diagram it looks like it might do what I need.

          I don't mind switching between Bat 1 & 2 while at sandbar or anchored listening to tunes if I have a device that allows Banks to be charged seperately. More research when mind is not numb on pain killers
          The BlueSea ACR and an ISO perfom the same basic funtion, so you will still be faced with the same small hurdle of determining what power wire goes where.

          The Perko switch will allow both/either batteries to charge, just depends on which position the switch is in.

          Let us know what we can do to help.
          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

          Comment


            #80
            Originally posted by chpthril View Post
            Sorry, didn't mean for it to sound like you needed to pull harnesses apart. Everything you need is right there from the original battery. All you need to do is put the propor electrical load, on the correct battery, should not need to pull any loom apart.



            The BlueSea ACR and an ISO perfom the same basic funtion, so you will still be faced with the same small hurdle of determining what power wire goes where.

            The Perko switch will allow both/either batteries to charge, just depends on which position the switch is in.

            Let us know what we can do to help.
            No problem. On my 20V there was only two wires going to the battery + side. One was the bilge and the other was positive to the switch. The other side of the switch only went to the lead that goes to a thermal link and then runs into engine compartment which I am assuming is alternator run and the house power from what it does when connected. It also made a run to the starter.

            The ACR I glanced at last night seemed to allow 1 bat to be selected but allow both batteries to charge. It would say charge the primary to a 13.6 volt threshold and then switch over to secondary battery. As I said last night I read this when I was semi numb on my fentanyl pops for pain so I may have misinterpreted what I read. I will re-read tonight or tomorrow from work.

            I appreciate all the help you have given me. If the ACR looks like it will do what I am thinking I will let you know.

            Comment


              #81
              Worked on wiring tonight and removed isolator. Decided to have starting battery to connect to #1 on Perko. The amps are now on the dedicated deep cycle battery. Left Perko 1,2,All , off switch connected to both batteries and common hooked to alternator / house wiring. When in #1 position will charge starting battery and in #2 the deepcycle. Perko in All position will charge both batteries but I am looking at an ACR to isolate them later this year. Should have bought Blue Sea switch vs Perko. Perko is a monster for the space available.

              Since the deep cycle is dedicated to the amps I am not worried about discharging the starting battery. A little cleanup tonight and I am done.
              Attached Files
              Last edited by Guest; 04-23-2008, 06:40 AM.

              Comment


                #82
                Once my boat is in the carport, I also put the tower up so I can gain access into the boat. Nice to have it done this way and reduce the stress load on the tower joints.

                Looks like that boat fits like a glove in that garage... It was ment to be.

                Comment


                  #83
                  We left the tower down the first day we had it in the garage and it was a pain doing anything in the boat. After the speakers went on the tower the tower went up and will stay like that until I take boat out to play. The billet spring loaded bolts are a pain in the butt so I am going to get a t-handle allen wrench that fits them so I won't be pushing the handle past the upper bar on the tower and hitting it each time I tighten or loosen the first few turns.

                  Garage is 21' 2" deep. Boat is 20' 8" with Taps plate so I have basically 3-4" left behind the boat which is where I put the teak platform. It will not get damaged by the other two cars that go into garage. Thank goodness that the garage is wide so I can get my red Mustang in it along with my wifes Expedition. My Jeep gets to stay outside. Should have built the house with a 4 car garage :

                  Next project is to clean the boat interior, remove DPS grease from block and wax it before it goes out. :

                  Comment


                    #84
                    Did you find out how that DPS grease got put on there? Besides a human doing it but what was their reasoning and thinking behind that..... I'm confused to why.....

                    Comment


                      #85

                      DPS grease was put in there by dealer to inhibit rust while in storage. Turns out that it is a 2007 model built in late 06 which explains why last fall why I got a great number. It was a spec boat and I guess people were afraid of the bright colors. The build date explains a lot.

                      Comment


                        #86
                        "2007 20V built in 2006 production runs" Whats up with the new description

                        Just like the car business, the new models will roll out early fall. Your boat was not built during the "06 production runs", or it would be an 06. Your boat is an 07, built just like every other 07.

                        Dont take this the wrong way, but why do you try so hard to find things about your boat you do not like? You've got a sweet, brand new boat............be proud, go have fun with it!
                        Last edited by chpthril; 04-24-2008, 12:31 PM.
                        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                        Comment


                          #87
                          chpthril, I don't see it as finding things on his boat. I have had more issues with both of my boats than I care to share but nothing that has (1) stopped me from boating and (2) I still love my boats (notice the plural????). IMO, 1lab is just probably telling us what issue are out there that he has.

                          Comment


                            #88
                            Originally posted by da.bell View Post
                            chpthril, I don't see it as finding things on his boat. I have had more issues with both of my boats than I care to share but nothing that has (1) stopped me from boating and (2) I still love my boats (notice the plural????). IMO, 1lab is just probably telling us what issue are out there that he has.
                            I'm not refering to warrantable issues, but just the overall design of the boat. I dont see a need to take issue with a boat that was made in the 06 calendar yr before the model years, makes sense My boat is an 06 with a born on date of Oct 05. This is just like the auto industry.
                            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                            Comment


                              #89
                              '09 model year production for many builders will start next month.

                              Just a little insight from one who supplies many builders in the industry...

                              or wants to...
                              It's not an optical illusion.
                              It just looks like one.....

                              Comment


                                #90
                                Originally posted by chpthril View Post
                                I'm not refering to warrantable issues, but just the overall design of the boat. I dont see a need to take issue with a boat that was made in the 06 calendar yr before the model years, makes sense My boat is an 06 with a born on date of Oct 05. This is just like the auto industry.
                                True, exactly like the auto industry. Heck, we all know the RZ4 came out a year ago and that was a 2008 model.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X