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I know how you feel. This year's projects were: replacing all the vinyl on the interior, upgrading the in-boat speakers to wetsounds (required enlarging speaker openings), wiring my tower navigation light, re-wiring my tower speakers, installing an automatic ballast system (still not 100% done) and adding a vision air chair (required replacing my pedastal). I'll be finishing up the ballast install with 3 new holes in my boat tomorrow. Lucky for me the temperature will be in the mid-90s, guaranteeing a fun time for all involved.
Cursed by a fortune cookie: "Your principles mean more to you than any money or success."
Thanks for the info, Philwsailz. So I basically just connect one end of the relay to the blue wire on the CMD4 and then the amps and the Eq turn on leads wire up to the other end? I don't know what I was thinking when I thought I could finish this in a weekend. I'm on my third week without music on the boat and still have another week or two to go.
Thanks for the info, Philwsailz. So I basically just connect one end of the relay to the blue wire on the CMD4 and then the amps and the Eq turn on leads wire up to the other end? I don't know what I was thinking when I thought I could finish this in a weekend. I'm on my third week without music on the boat and still have another week or two to go.
Here is a schematic I finally got done.
The numbers noted are printed on every 30A relay I have ever seen.
Put the relay near the amps or near the radio, preferably away from the engine compartment....
Terminal 85 goes to blue wire from radio
Terminal 86 goes to ground. Preferably at the battery.
Terminal 30 goes to battery positive. Put a 5 or 10 amp fuse on this wire right at the battery to prevent a fire.
Terminal 87 goes to the amp turn on leads.
Philwsailz
Can I draw my power and ground from my distro blocks for the amps
90-99 percent of the time, yeah.
There will be some weird rare occasion that you have to do differently due ONLY to noise, ( and I cannot imagine how it would happen) but basically it will work almost all of the time.
It's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....
Here are a few pictures of the projects going on. The new batteries
The new seat and heater with 3 vents
Here is all the old power and ground lines, they were replaced with two 1/0 gauge wires to the distribution blocks
The WS-420
More pictures coming soon!
Put the relay near the amps or near the radio, preferably away from the engine compartment....
Terminal 85 goes to blue wire from radio
Terminal 86 goes to ground. Preferably at the battery.
Terminal 30 goes to battery positive. Put a 5 or 10 amp fuse on this wire right at the battery to prevent a fire.
Terminal 87 goes to the amp turn on leads.
Where is your Mic?? How hard was the install of the WS-420? I am going to try and install mine this w/e, and I am trying to get an idea of how much wire/RCA/whatever else I need.......
That picture was taken just after I screwed it in place so it's not hooked up there. I'll find a way to mount the mic right under the dash above the WS-420 I ran 1 power and 1 negative wire and the 4 RCA's through the footwell wall and then I ran them through the vent tube under the driver side storage and up through the vent tube on the passenger side where my amps and distribution blocks are. You can pull the vent tubes out and then put them back when you're done. The length was 10' on the RCA's and probably the same length for the power and ground leads. You need to fish some wire through from one vent tube to the next so you can pull your wires through but it's not bad. I was hesitant running the power lead with the RCA's but Tim White from Wetsounds said it's no big deal. You just don't want to run the RCA's next to your main power leads to your amps. Hope this helps, good luck.
That picture was taken just after I screwed it in place so it's not hooked up there. I'll find a way to mount the mic right under the dash above the WS-420 I ran 1 power and 1 negative wire and the 4 RCA's through the footwell wall and then I ran them through the vent tube under the driver side storage and up through the vent tube on the passenger side where my amps and distribution blocks are. You can pull the vent tubes out and then put them back when you're done. The length was 10' on the RCA's and probably the same length for the power and ground leads. You need to fish some wire through from one vent tube to the next so you can pull your wires through but it's not bad. I was hesitant running the power lead with the RCA's but Tim White from Wetsounds said it's no big deal. You just don't want to run the RCA's next to your main power leads to your amps. Hope this helps, good luck.
Cool, so you didn't run power and ground back to the battery? THought Tim had recommended that AND new power and ground from the HU back to the battery for optimum sound. I like your way as long as it sounds ok! Do you notice any extra noise/distortion with your setup? BTW, thanks for the reply and your system looks awesome!
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