Another Wetsounds Install

[Micah]

I figured since so many members have helped me get everything ready for my install I could post up a picture of the boat


Here is a list of the equipment going in

Speakers-Wetsounds
2 Pro 80's
6 XS 650's
1 XS12
1 WS420

Amps-Kicker
1 ZX 1000.1 for the sub
1 ZX 550.2 for the tower
1 ZX650.4 for the boat

I also purchased a Kinetik 2000 to run the amps

All the wetsounds purchased was B stock except for the EQ and the amps were bought on EBAY. I wanted to thank Tim and Justin at Wetsounds for there help, along with Phil for suggestions on the amps and CHP for most of my wiring diagrams. I will keep everyone posted on the install. Unfortunately we still have snow on the ground in Denver so it will be a few weeks.

[da.bell]

Now that is sweet!!!!!!

First time posting as well.

[Jason B]

Welcome to the site. How's it sound?

[G-MONEY]

Welcome

Thanks for posting a pic on you first post....well done

Boat looks great

I bet you hate how high your board racks are tho. I know I did

[buffman]

Cool welcome man look forward to meeting you - so you buy the boat originally from bill and donna @ WWS?

[Micah]

Thanks, I bought the boat from someone that purchased it from Bill and Donna but have since used them for everything. I just love there customer service. Right now I can only dream about how it sounds because it is all sitting in boxes right next to me. The boat is still shrinkwrapped for a couple more weeks. The high racks are coming down as I have replaced them with wake surfboard racks from Monster. I've been lurching around here for a year absorbing great information, actually I'm sure my wife would have preferred I had never discovered this site due to the time it takes absorbing all this great information.

[da.bell]

Thanks, I bought the boat from someone that purchased it from Bill and Donna but have since used them for everything. I just love there customer service. Right now I can only dream about how it sounds because it is all sitting in boxes right next to me. The boat is still shrinkwrapped for a couple more weeks. The high racks are coming down as I have replaced them with wake surfboard racks from Monster. I've been lurching around here for a year absorbing great information, actually I'm sure my wife would have preferred I had never discovered this site due to the time it takes absorbing all this great information.

They all feel that way. I takes away from "their" time with you.

[chpthril]

Dam good looking Tige. You'll have to do some work in progress pics of the stereo for us.

I wanted to post a PM from Micah so we could share the info with everyone else. We've worked out a wire diagram, wire size, curcuit breakers, etc. Looks like he will either go with the Hellroaring Iso/combiner or a BlueSea as Phil suggested in another thread. Dont think you will go wrong with either one.

So far, no one sees any problems running a Kinetik and a LAWC battery together through a combiner.

I just had a couple more question regarding your diagram. What gauge wire can I run from the perko switch to the isolator/combiner and then from the isolator to the Kinetik battery? Would 4 gauge be okay or should I run 0 gauge? Also when coming off the Kinetik I noticed you have two distribution blocks one negative and one positive. Does the negative distribution block have to be installed a special way to ground it or is it grounded just from being connected to the ground from the Kinetik. Also are the breaks in the line just inline fuses? How do you figure what size fuses to use. Sorry for some of the stupid questions. I'm trying to figure out how to shrink some of my boat pictures so I can post it on TigeOwners. That way you can see what you're helping me with. Thanks, micah

Micah,

No stupid Q's at all.

You're putting the Kinetik close to the Amps, correct? From the Perko to the Kinetik, the max load will be equal to the output of the alt, 90amps, so 0ga will be perfect. From the Kinetik to the dist. blocks, you're looking at about 150 Amps draw, so again, 0ga will work for that short a distance. From the Dist. blocks to the amps, I would think 4ga will do.

I prefer circuit breakers over fuses. For proper protection, the fuse/breaker needs to be close (12-18 ins) to the source (battery) and between the source and the load. On boats, this makes them hard to reach while in the battery storage/engine area. Breakers are also waterproof and ignition protected which makes the great and safe for the boating environment.

For the breaker between the Perko and the Iso/combiner, you will need one rated for at least 90amps, but not more then 120amps. For the one between the Kinetik and the Pos dist block, you will need a breaker that will handle the load of the amps (150amps) so I would say at least 140amps (you'll never see the amps pull max load) but no higher then 160amps.

Breakers - www.waytekwire.com
100amp - #46985 $30.00
150amp - #46989 $30.00

With the use of breakers, you will not need a fused dist block for the Pos side, and nothing special for the GND. All you need are two (2) 3 gang dist blocks that will accept 0ga on the "in" side and 4ga on the "out" side.

[philwsailz]

Mike, Micah-

This is looking good, except for one thing I notice at the moment.

I feel the need to take an opportunity to address a potential problem I see.

Any wire or cable connected to a positive terminal on a battery really should have some means of over-current protection as close to the battery as possible. U.S. Coast Guard Law says within seven inches of the battery for new boat construction. Pretty much the only circuit exempt from this requirement for most installations is the starter motor power cable.

With the Kinetik remotely mounted and near the amplifiers, I perceive that the positive power cable run between the Kinetik and the Iso/Combiner is a potential ignition source in the event of shorting. I would consider either moving the over-current protection shown to a location adjacent to the Kinetik battery, or install an additional over-current protection device at the battery.

[chpthril]

Good catch, Phil. That is exactly why I posted it, to have a 2nd, or 3rd, 4th, etc, set of eyes, to make sure we didn't over look something. Thanks for the input.

So, if he mounted the Iso/combiner as close to the Perko as possible, and relocating the breaker from it's current location in yellow circle, to location you suggested in next yellow circle. You think that would git'r done

[philwsailz]

I think that would get it done. Notice I italicized the word "think" ....

In the scenario you describe I think it would be good. My one concern, (and I ask just to clarify) is the possible situation where the Perko switch were in the combined or "all" postion.

A question for you:
With the Perko switch in the "all" position, would the length of wire in question be energized by the other two batteries? If so, I would probably leave the original over-current device as originally drawn and ADD one next to the Kinetik battery.

[philwsailz]

My reasoning for probably putting over-current protection at both ends is as follows:

* In the stereo running scenario, the stereo is the load, and the voltage source is the Kinetik.

* In the stereo dead/battery charging scenario, the Kinetik battery becomes the load, and the voltage source is one that will be found at the Perko switch end of things.

I think it is prudent at this point for me to dig into the books and see if I can determine the recommended safety protocol for remotely mounted batteries. The practice is common, as large boats have their bow thrusters powered by similar remote-mounted batteries. There should be documentation as to the preferred and/or legal method.

[chpthril]

I think that would get it done. Notice I italicized the word "think" ....

In the scenario you describe I think it would be good. My one concern, (and I ask just to clarify) is the possible situation where the Perko switch were in the combined or "all" position.

A question for you:
With the Perko switch in the "all" position, would the length of wire in question be energized by the other two batteries? If so, I would probably leave the original over-current device as originally drawn and ADD one next to the Kinetik battery.

That section between the Perko and Iso/combiner would be "HOT" with the switch in all positions except OFF.

If that wire is kept at a minimum length, say less then 12", I would say the chance of a short would be slim to none. The trick will be when Mikah gets in there to see how close this can be mounted. What looks good on paper.......

Another scenario would be to mount the Iso/Combiner right off the Kinetic, and leave the circuit protection in the original location????

[chpthril]

My reasoning for probably putting over-current protection at both ends is as follows:

* In the stereo running scenario, the stereo is the load, and the voltage source is the Kinetik.

* In the stereo dead/battery charging scenario, the Kinetik battery becomes the load, and the voltage source is one that will be found at the Perko switch end of things.

I think it is prudent at this point for me to dig into the books and see if I can determine the recommended safety protocol for remotely mounted batteries. The practice is common, as large boats have their bow thrusters powered by similar remote-mounted batteries. There should be documentation as to the preferred and/or legal method.

Here is how I think the Combiner should work: If the combiner is mounted at the remote battery, then it should act as a circuit protector for the power run between the Kinetic and the Perko, if a short occurred and tripped the breaker mounted at the Perko. The combiner is only closed when it senses the alt charging, so, as soon as the Perko mounted breaker tripped, the combiner will open, and stop the back flow of current from the Kinetic.

Does this sound right to you?

[Jason B]

Thanks for posting that up! Waytek had the switch and mounts I've been looking for to control my LED lights. WAY cheaper than anything I've found that I liked.