Powering my ENTIRE system?

[CP3]

OK so since I have gotten the Pro 60's chp helped me wire them up and get them to work, but we dont have everything hooked up now.

system componets:
3 Boss 1600W 4ch amp
1 kenwood 800W 2ch amp
2 kenwood 12" subs in their own box
1 Kicker 12" sub mounted under the dash
4 Kicker interior speakers
4 Wetsound's Pro60's

The main thing I need to know is whats the best way to hook up the amps to the battery: IE what wire size and configuration to each amp. Also what to run off of each amp. I figure the best thing is to split the tower speaker up on one of the 4 ch amps. Use one 4ch to run the interior speakers, then use the last 4ch to run the 3 subs with 2ch bridged to the kicker sub and then 1 channel to each of the kenwood subs and not use the kenwood amp.

Im open to any and all suggestions on how to wire, ground and run speaker wire to each speaker. the main thing is to spend as LITTLE money as possible!

The current set up power set-up is I have either 4or 2 running to one 1600w and then another 8 running from that amp to the 2nd 1600w to power it. then the 800w amp is running on 8 gauge. this is all running on the same battery. chp suggested I need to get a capacitor....

Thanks for the help in advance

[chpthril]

chp suggested I need to get a capacitor

Isolator!

Let me eat dinner and I'll tell ya I think

[xpjim1]

I think you need 1 flux capacitor and power everthing off of that. You can get rid of all the amps. My second choice is the warp core with dilithium crystals

OK I have no clue - sorry

[zad0030]

You should talk to Dom....

[dogbert]

Your amps should all have fuses in them. Add up all the values and that will tell you the maximum amps they will ever draw. Then use spharis' chart to determine the size cable you need. The length of the run will also factor into this.

[chpthril]

OK so since I have gotten the Pro 60's chp helped me wire them up and get them to work, but we dont have everything hooked up now.

system componets:
3 Boss 1600W 4ch amp
1 kenwood 800W 2ch amp
2 kenwood 12" subs in their own box
1 Kicker 12" sub mounted under the dash
4 Kicker interior speakers
4 Wetsound's Pro60's

The main thing I need to know is whats the best way to hook up the amps to the battery: IE what wire size and configuration to each amp. Also what to run off of each amp. I figure the best thing is to split the tower speaker up on one of the 4 ch amps. Use one 4ch to run the interior speakers, then use the last 4ch to run the 3 subs with 2ch bridged to the kicker sub and then 1 channel to each of the kenwood subs and not use the kenwood amp.

Im open to any and all suggestions on how to wire, ground and run speaker wire to each speaker. the main thing is to spend as LITTLE money as possible!

The current set up power set-up is I have either 4or 2 running to one 1600w and then another 8 running from that amp to the 2nd 1600w to power it. then the 800w amp is running on 8 gauge. this is all running on the same battery. chp suggested I need to get a capacitor....

Thanks for the help in advance

First, what is the sum of the fuses on one of the 1600w amps, and the fuse(s) on the 800w. Next, whats the specs on those Kenwoods - ohms and RMS. Last, what's the 2ohm and 4ohm output of those 1600W amps

Wiring: I would run 1 Pos and 1 Neg of proper size from the battery to 2 Dist blocks next to the amps. From them, run 4ga to each amp. At the battery, have a manual reset circuit breaker in the Pos power wire for circuit protection.

I would recommend an Isolator to separate your starting and house batteries

Sounds like you are looking to get rid of the 1 of the amps (the 800W) With what you got, I dont think you need 4 amps to do it right.

[philwsailz]

First, what is the sum of the fuses on one of the 1600w amps, and the fuse(s) on the 800w. Next, whats the specs on those Kenwoods - ohms and RMS. Last, what's the 2ohm and 4ohm output of those 1600W amps

Wiring: I would run 1 Pos and 1 Neg of proper size from the battery to 2 Dist blocks next to the amps. From them, run 4ga to each amp. At the battery, have a manual reset circuit breaker in the Pos power wire for circuit protection.

I would recommend an Isolator to separate your starting and house batteries

Sounds like you are looking to get rid of the 1 of the amps (the 800W) With what you got, I dont think you need 4 amps to do it right.

I agree with everything CHP has shared. Perfect.

Adding to it:
We will need to know the impedance of all of the subs. If the Kenwoods are in their own enclosure, measure impedance at the enclosure terminal. On the Kicker woofer, let us know which woofer you have, (comp, CVR, etc) and the impedance of the voicecoil(s).

Keep us posted, and ask all the questions you can!

[spharis]

One more note, a capacitor isn't going to really help a lot in a boat. Caps are like a small battery, but they charge and discharge more easily and quickly. Every time they get drained they must recharge before the downline components get full power again. Engine is running, great. It will help keep the lights from dimming if you have an undersized alt, and it will condition the overall circuit. Engine off, it's just one more component in the way of precious little electrons getting from your battery (which is where the power always comes from) to the amp. A better upgrade would be to skip the cap and go with a larger output alternator, and some higher AH batteries. Caps are band-aids.

Granted there is another school of thought on caps, but I in no way agree with it. If you charging system is sufficient, you should never need a cap.


For ease of wiring, and future expansion, you might as well run 0 to 2 AWG battery cable (pos+ and neg-) to the area where the amps are going to be, and then use distros from there.

[CP3]

I know the kicker sub is a CVR. the 1600w amps have two 30 fuses on them. I dont know the rest right now cuz the boat is outside and its raining....

[dogbert]

I know the kicker sub is a CVR. the 1600w amps have two 30 fuses on them. I dont know the rest right now cuz the boat is outside and its raining....

If you know what model the amps are, you can look up their specs on Crutchfield

[Domsz06]

you don't need 4 amps for what you have. I'd get rid of the 800 and keep the 1600's. YOu have more then enough amps for what you have right now.

[talltigeguy]

If you have the same Boss amps that I have (from Boats of Nevada), then the Boss C1600 runs 150 watts RMS to each of its 4 channels. Like most cheap amps, they display the max power to attract attention, not the RMS power, which is more important, IMO. Mine was run with 8 guage wire.

So it would seem to be fine for the tower speakers (150 Watts each), and the interior speakers, but I wonder about the subs.

I have the 1600 bridged to my sub, and then run in parallel to the dual voice coils, so I suppose I might be getting 600 watts to it. Is that enough for the subs you have?

[CP3]

yes tall is correct.
They are 150 W RMS x 4, 4 ohms

The other question is how to run the rf cables so they have enough signal power at the amps. I have the clarion CMD4 head unit which i think has 2 rf out puts and only one is fadeable. I would like to set it up so i can fade between the interior speakers and the tower speakers

[chpthril]

yes tall is correct.
They are 150 W RMS x 4, 4 ohms

The other question is how to run the rf cables so they have enough signal power at the amps. I have the clarion CMD4 head unit which i think has 2 rf out puts and only one is fadeable. I would like to set it up so i can fade between the interior speakers and the tower speakers

Your in luck, the CMD4 has 3 out-puts. A front and rear, and a non fade.

[talltigeguy]

yes tall is correct.
They are 150 W RMS x 4, 4 ohms

The other question is how to run the rf cables so they have enough signal power at the amps. I have the clarion CMD4 head unit which i think has 2 rf out puts and only one is fadeable. I would like to set it up so i can fade between the interior speakers and the tower speakers

This is where I think that Wetsounds' EQ is going to be the bomb! Boats have so many speakers that this solves the problem perfectly. I like my LC1's so much better than having to try and use the HU to fade out the tower speakers. I doubt you can do it with the remote, so popping up the glove box to turn the tower speakers on and off is going to be painful in a very short amount of time.