Another Stereo help thread

[time2kyl]

So here we go. Sorry for the long winded post. There are questions scattered throughout this post along with my proposed set up. Assistance is greatly appreciated. All the Kicker stuff is just ordered (Merry Christmas to me) (Phil is a good salesman ) so I really need help determining wire and such to buy...see below.

HU: Sony CDX-R30M 52Wx4

Tower set up: (Upgrade at some point)

Speakers: 4 Sony XS-V1635X 4 ohm, 250 peak/65 RMS in 2 cans

Amp: Sony Xplod XM-2200gtx. The amp is 2 channel bridgeable.
Says 48A at 4 Ohm but has 2-40 A fuses in it

2 x 250W RMS (20Hz to 20kHz) @ 2Ohm

Wire each can to one channel on amp with 10 ga, amp will see 2 Ohm per channel

Use rear out on HU to XM-2200GTX

Can I add a second volume control on the dash to control the volume of the tower speakers independent of the cabin speakers?



Cabin set up:

Amp: Kicker ZX700.5

Speakers: 4 KM620 4 ohm, 195 peak/65 RMS
Sub: 1 SKM10 4 ohm, 300 peak/150 RMS

Use front out on HU to ZX700.5

12 ga from amp to speakers and 10 ga to sub



Wiring set up: Here is where I need the help. I've looked at some of the other threads and have a general idea.

2 batteries running into perko switch (1-2-off-all)
Not sure of alternator size

How much and what wire to buy???

Amps will be installed under stereo opposite from helm
Batteries in port rear under sun deck approximate 10’ run to stereo/amp compartment

Two options:
Run 0? to breaker (200A?) and continue with 0? to front compartment distribution block with 4? to amps

Or run 0? to breaker (200A?) and distribution block then 4? to front compartment to amps

Repeat same for ground?

Possibly rewire HU power ground. It is already on the ACC switch on the dash

[philwsailz]

I have sat here for several minutes thinking about your power wiring. I cannot find a significant argument for the preference of either of the two scenarios you describe. I would recommend that you take a look at the cost difference as a primary consideration; that might point you down the best path. Otherwise, either one should work fine.


Noise is an ongoing issue with any amplified stereo in a boat; pops from relays and solenoids being the primary cause. I have some recommendations based on work in several boat plants. In the meantime, yes, it will be advantageous to rewire your head unit's power wiring to assist in minimizing noise. Use the acc. switch to fire a relay for the primary power, and take it straight to the batt switch. Take the H/U ground to the ground lug at the amp(s). You probably have figure all of that out.

Getting rid of pops is not tough it turns out. The trick is, I recommend modification to the wiring for the offending device; NOT the stereo. Put simply, I use a capacitor in parallel to the load that is creating the pop. On a stern-drive boat, the offending loads are the solenoid-controlled valves that open and close for hydraulic drive trim, and other hydraulic systems. For a wakeboard boat, the typical offender will be balast valves, lighting, and I think TAPS control too. Someone here might be able to confirm and add to the list.

You will want to use non-polar electrolytic capacitors for this application. I have found that physical proximity to the offending load is not critical, so I prefer to place the capacitors in an area that does not by law require ignition protection. On the production boats where we have implemented the fix, the capacitors are typically installed behind the helm, right at the switch for the load.

Does all of that make sense?

Lots to take in, so just grab it in little chunks. Get the stereo in first, and then we can addres sthe noise issues...

Keep us posted!

[philwsailz]

Oh, quickly...

You can drive two of the SKM10 subwoofers from the sub section of the ZX700.5 It will probably be worth it do get two, if even you just get one at a time, but take a look around and see if there is a good spot for a second one...

[chpthril]

Like phil said, check the cost. You need to count on about a 15' run from engine/batts to storage console.

I would go 0ga from batts (with manual reset breaker close to battery) to Dist block in console near amps. Then dist block to amps with 4ga.

The reason I like this method, unless cost prohibitive, is that you will have 1 pos and 1 neg (2 wires) running through the boat instead of 2 4ga pos and 2 4ga neg. Less wire is always cleaner and easier to manage.

15' 0ga pos
15' 0ga neg
1 breaker
2 dist blocks
4' of red 4ga
4' of blk 4ga

[philwsailz]

what he said...

[dogrocco]

time2kyl,
If you could let me know how you end up wireing your system. I need to do all this since my new 24 has nothing. I went to a stereo store and they recomend that i use three amps so I could control the volume from the tower and the cabin. They recomended all JL audio but they are a JL shop. They wanted 500/1 for sub a 450/4 for 6 cabin speakers and a 300/4 for 4 tower cans. I know JL makes goods amps but if there is something out there that is good but cheaper I am good with that. Phil maybe you can recomend me some Kicker products.

[Domsz06]

nice post phil

[time2kyl]

So all my stuff is in and sitting on the counter and everywhere else Well except for the additional sub, it was on sale so I couldn't pass it up . Hopefully next weekend I'll be starting the install and letting the neighbors hear how loud it is!!!

[da.bell]

time2kyl,
If you could let me know how you end up wireing your system. I need to do all this since my new 24 has nothing. I went to a stereo store and they recomend that i use three amps so I could control the volume from the tower and the cabin. They recomended all JL audio but they are a JL shop. They wanted 500/1 for sub a 450/4 for 6 cabin speakers and a 300/4 for 4 tower cans. I know JL makes goods amps but if there is something out there that is good but cheaper I am good with that. Phil maybe you can recomend me some Kicker products.

IMO, the JL speakers won't push out the full potential of the amps from what I have heard.

[G-MONEY]

IMO, the JBL speakers won't push out the full potential of the amps from what I have heard.

he looked at JL not JBL

[da.bell]

he looked at JL not JBL

Don't know what you are quoting or talking about.

Ops, I did mean JL from the get go.

[dogbert]

Ops, I did mean JL from the get go.

R-i-i-i-i-g-h-t

[philwsailz]

220, 221, whatever it takes....

[chpthril]

220, 221, whatever it takes....

Scotch?

[philwsailz]

Scotch?

huh?

You lost me.....